454 power advice
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454 power advice

  1. #1
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    Default 454 power advice

    I am kind of new to boating and need some advise on my 1995 baja 240 with a 454. This summer i would like to do some things to the motor. The lie-o-meter says that i am topping out at 55mph and i know its closer to a 65mph boat. I am currently running a 23p 3 blade prop but i also have a 24p 4 blade prop but i am not sure if it will help or not. I would like to just do some regular maintenance on the motor to bring back some of its life but am also looking at putting approx $1500 into some upgrades for the motor. What would yall do and what kind of power/speed can i expect. Thank you in advance for any help i can get.

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    Welcome to the world of boating. There are members on the forum who have alot of knowledge and are vey helpful. Before they can help it would be good to know more about the engine. Is it stock or has it been modified? If it is stock what version is it. If it has been modified, what was done? Before you can know where to go, you have to know where you are at. I would do some searches on similar subjects to get an idea of the information needed to begin answering your question

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    It is a stock 330hp carbureted 454 with a bravo 1 outdrive. The motor has around 400 hours on it. I just know that boat is more than a 55mph boat. I know people with the same boat pushing close to 65mph.

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    What is the maximum rpm you spin with the 23p that's on the boat now?

    Does the exhaust exit the prop hub or through transom?

    You mentioned that you're kinda new to boating, have you figured out or had anyone show you how to properly trim the boat for different running/water conditions?

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    Also need to know the diameter of the props, and the gear ratio of your drive.

    Adding a blade increases prop 'bite' on the water and often will reduce WOT RPM, adding pitch does the same thing, doing BOTH is not often recommended unless your WOT RPM is too high to begin with as overloading and lugging your motor to below the recommended RPM range is seriously shortening the lifetime of your motor.

    Some prop guru's have calcs utilizing boat weight, length, wetted area, hull, etc., and can make a recommendation that is surprisingly accurate. I am NOT one of those guys.

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    1500.00 doesn't seem to get you too far in the marine world these days. I think the most important/effective improvement (and one of the most costly, of course) is the exhaust system. If you're going to limit yourself to 1500.00 now, spend it there. Everything you will want to do from here on out as far as engine performance like cam, intake, carb, etc... will be compromized by the exhaust if it's not upgraded. I think the best bang-for-the-buck ex upgrade would be the PowerFlows. Then you can look at basic upgrades like cam, intake and carb. Those four upgrades, done right, could gain you a 100+ hp increase, and more power over a usable rpm range.
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    I do have corsia silent choice exhaust. I am not sure my gear ratio or dia of the prop. I do know that at WOT my motor turns at about 4800rpm. I can't say I really know how to trim a boat extremely well so most of the time I leave my outdrive all the way down and my trim tabs up. I'm not really sure how to run the boat well yet due to the fact I have only had it for 1 summer

  10. #8
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6string View Post
    I do have corsia silent choice exhaust. I am not sure my gear ratio or dia of the prop. I do know that at WOT my motor turns at about 4800rpm. I can't say I really know how to trim a boat extremely well so most of the time I leave my outdrive all the way down and my trim tabs up. I'm not really sure how to run the boat well yet due to the fact I have only had it for 1 summer
    Your trim is where your missing speed is hiding. Do some searches to get information and find someone in your area to show you the ropes.

    In a nutshell, trim all the way down helps you get out of the hole, and pushes the nose down into the water while underway, which is good for rough water conditions, the bow slices through all the chop and you get a smoother ride.

    Trim up a bit at a time and you will see both speed and rpm's increase as the nose of the boat comes up out of the water reducing drag.

    Things to be aware of. If you trim too high the boat will likely start to porpoise, the bow will start to bounce up and down. This an indication you have trimmed to far up. Just bump it down til it stops. Also, I've been in two of the models you have, one handles very well, the other would catch in a turn and want to throw everyone out of the boat. Not sure if the performance of the two are different in year, set-up, or operator. Just be careful and get someone out there to show you the ropes. I'm sure you can find someone on here in your area. Try the outdrive section. Maybe just ask for some tips there.

    Oh, and... When we talk of trim it's the outdrive trim not the trim tabs, leave those up until you get the hang of things.

    Other than that, see steelecomp's post above. Good info right there.

    Good luck!

    -Seth-


    This is an outboard, but the principals are exactly the same.

    Last edited by Budweiser; 02-06-2013 at 08:48 AM.

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    Seth,

    Really good info. I will have to start trying to learn where the boat likes to be trimmed so it will run more efficiently. I really appreciate your time and for your response. I would like to get some more info on horsepower gains. What type of carb and intake is recommended. I would like to do a cam too but I imagine you would have to jack the motor to get them out. What else would be good for some power gains?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6string View Post
    Seth,

    Really good info. I will have to start trying to learn where the boat likes to be trimmed so it will run more efficiently. I really appreciate your time and for your response. I would like to get some more info on horsepower gains. What type of carb and intake is recommended. I would like to do a cam too but I imagine you would have to jack the motor to get them out. What else would be good for some power gains?
    No problem. What the video didn't mention is efficient is fast.

    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    1500.00 doesn't seem to get you too far in the marine world these days. I think the most important/effective improvement (and one of the most costly, of course) is the exhaust system. If you're going to limit yourself to 1500.00 now, spend it there. Everything you will want to do from here on out as far as engine performance like cam, intake, carb, etc... will be compromized by the exhaust if it's not upgraded. I think the best bang-for-the-buck ex upgrade would be the PowerFlows. Then you can look at basic upgrades like cam, intake and carb. Those four upgrades, done right, could gain you a 100+ hp increase, and more power over a usable rpm range.
    Steelcomp is right on the money. He's very reputable and does this kind of stuff for a living.

    The path best taken for "bolt on" performance increase restated:
    1) Performance exhaust manifolds - If your manifolds are stock, they will restrict other upgrades. This doesn't refer to your silent choice system, but the manifold itself.
    2) Intake manifold - Edelbrock Performer is a good choice for your engine size and rpm range.
    3) Roller Rockers
    4) Cam - Hydraulic Roller
    5) Carburetor - Depending on what's on there, I'd put this last. Since your engine is enclosed under a hatch, you'll need a USCG approved one. Not the least expensive upgrade.

    If you have $1500 to spend, absolutely go for the exhaust manifolds first. I know it's not as fun as a some of the other options, but it will make the biggest difference overall. You also may want to spend the next year learning to operate the boat confidently and save the greenbacks to build a purpose built engine, top to bottom, instead of taking the "bolt on" performance route. Just a thought.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    No problem. What the video didn't mention is efficient is fast.



    Steelcomp is right on the money. He's very reputable and does this kind of stuff for a living.

    The path best taken for "bolt on" performance increase restated:
    1) Performance exhaust manifolds - If your manifolds are stock, they will restrict other upgrades. This doesn't refer to your silent choice system, but the manifold itself.
    2) Intake manifold - Edelbrock Performer is a good choice for your engine size and rpm range.
    3) Roller Rockers
    4) Cam - Hydraulic Roller
    5) Carburetor - Depending on what's on there, I'd put this last. Since your engine is enclosed under a hatch, you'll need a USCG approved one. Not the least expensive upgrade.

    If you have $1500 to spend, absolutely go for the exhaust manifolds first. I know it's not as fun as a some of the other options, but it will make the biggest difference overall. You also may want to spend the next year learning to operate the boat confidently and save the greenbacks to build a purpose built engine, top to bottom, instead of taking the "bolt on" performance route. Just a thought.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Hass will be along shortly to perscribe a used single blow thru turbo from a Peterbilt with the existing EVERYTHING, and 40lbs of boost and a vortex tube.
    DONE!



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Hass will be along shortly to perscribe a used single blow thru turbo from a Peterbilt with the existing EVERYTHING, and 40lbs of boost and a vortex tube.
    DONE!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by 3boatpaul View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    If you expect to get any decent low end out of the thing, it will need to be compounded with a screw.




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