Whipple, Turbo, or new motor???
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Whipple, Turbo, or new motor???

  1. #1
    BUN
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    Default Whipple, Turbo, or new motor???

    So i was hoping to get some thoughts on gaining some more MPH!! I am running a Raylar 525 conversion 103 kit (used to be a 496 mag HO) in a 2002 Nordic Heat. Running at about 2100 feet. The motor dynoed at 525 hp at the crank, but cant break 70 mph. Stock ran around 62 mph. So with that said, my motor has around 460 hours, 220 on the raylar build. I was wondering what everyone thought about either adding a whipple, procharger, or just starting over with a Merlin 572 and get it built. Would love to run high 70's low 80's, and procharger boasts an increase of 12 to 15 mph on average. My buddy has basically the same boat with a merc 525 and a whipple and only runs high 60's!! doesnt seem like its worth the extra cash for such little added mph. Running a bravo 26p 4 blade stainless btw. Any advice? The season is approaching soon!!! Dont wanna spend 30k, but if its better to start over then thats the most logical step. HELP!!!

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    AKA Blownjet 468 Blowncat 509's Avatar
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    My boat gained 16mph with a whipple bolted onto a stock 502.........


    Out With The Old, In With The New.......Goodbye Blinding Acceleration, Hello Sustained High Speed (in comfort)

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    BUN
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    In a cat? Should be different in a Vhull right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BUN View Post
    In a cat? Should be different in a Vhull right?
    You will need 150+ hp to get 80. a whipple for the 496 with get that but at +460hrs and N/A hyper pistons you will be rebuilding anyway. at 150+ hp increase and a Nordic heat you NEED a fresh drive. Turbo UNDER THE HATCH is not cheap and easy.

    The least expensive and most reliable option to get to 80+mph is to sell your complete engine and drive, as is, then start over with a carbed 565 and a bravo XR. While you are replacing the drive you may pick up speed by getting a shorter lower unit but avoid a speedmaster until 90+...it will slow you down. You NEED hydraulic steering to the helm at these speeds.

    If you are going to spend the money on efi then you should go with a smaller cid (502 or 509) with a 3.3 whipple. shorter stroke is easier on the drive in the cruising speed than a 565 or 572 NA, better on fuel, easy to upgrade power when you want more. With this option you won't need to spend the money on long tube headers so it makes up for some of the cost of the whipple. GM crate shortblock and dart heads is plenty at 800-850 hp.

    If you are replacing the engine,drive, and adding steering then maybe it would cost less to sell your boat and buy another Heat with the power you are looking for.

    good luck.
    Last edited by dnewps; 02-15-2013 at 01:11 AM.

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    BUN
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    Thanks for all that great info!! I already have a bravo XR upper and lower, and IMCO dual hydraulic Steering, IMCO drive spacer and dual drive shower. Also, the upper drive has beefed up gears so they are stronger than the XR stock gears. I wouldn't want to get a new boat due to the fact that my boat has almost 20 grand in stereo/tv/batteries and customization in the interior. There is not a single thing wrong with my boat and I love it. Just wondering if there was some bolt on power...

    I was kind of thinking to start a project this year, so that next season i would have a fresh motor. That seems like the best possibility. I know "I dig it" on here has a 572 in his Nordic and runs low 80's. So it looks like refreshing the motor might be the best way to go.

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Here ya go! Water cooled exhaust and turbine housings... all ready to go. Might want to turn the boost down a bit if ya want the drive to last

    http://www.performanceboats.com/part...win-turbo.html


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    Quote Originally Posted by BUN View Post
    Thanks for all that great info!! I already have a bravo XR upper and lower, and IMCO dual hydraulic Steering, IMCO drive spacer and dual drive shower. Also, the upper drive has beefed up gears so they are stronger than the XR stock gears. I wouldn't want to get a new boat due to the fact that my boat has almost 20 grand in stereo/tv/batteries and customization in the interior. There is not a single thing wrong with my boat and I love it. Just wondering if there was some bolt on power...

    I was kind of thinking to start a project this year, so that next season i would have a fresh motor. That seems like the best possibility. I know "I dig it" on here has a 572 in his Nordic and runs low 80's. So it looks like refreshing the motor might be the best way to go.
    Well ok...that changes everything. My vote would be to whipple what you have with forged internals. The Raylar kit replaces the crappy heads and intake...it needs a rebuild anyway so the weak pistons are gone....no reason to start over if you are keeping the drive. Whipple 496 will have more power at the top, better on the drive in the mid, and will be better on fuel than the 572.

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    BUN
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    Only problem i have with adding a whipple is the engine has almost 500 hours. I am a boater that enjoys my boat, thats for sure!! What would you recommend on pistons? I will be doing a compression/ leakdown test before i run this season to check what shape my motor is in anyway.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUN View Post
    Only problem i have with adding a whipple is the engine has almost 500 hours. I am a boater that enjoys my boat, thats for sure!! What would you recommend on pistons? I will be doing a compression/ leakdown test before i run this season to check what shape my motor is in anyway.
    You cannot add a Whipple to that motor at that level. With the AL heads and the HP that the pistons are transferring now - it won't last long. And believe me, I am a 496 advocate. I suggest you keep the boat the way you have it, as you are asking ALOT of what you have. With all of that stereo and TV gear, you have added a significant amount of weight.

    If you DO switch motors, you will have to re-rig the boat, so if you HAVE to go faster - have your local engine shop get a forged bottom end, some MAHLE or SBP pistons to give you 8.5:1 or so with your Raylar heads. THEN do your Whipple if you must. Keeping the 8.1 keeps the boat rigged right and saves the money of building a bigger motor AND re-rigging. Plus, you keep the EFI - which you want to do at the altitude you boat.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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