choosing the correct cam
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choosing the correct cam

  1. #1
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    Default choosing the correct cam

    We have a 523 with a 1271 and enderle injection, set-up to run on race gas. My brother is in the process of putting the blower and injection on a different motor, so we're left with a long block and some other parts we've collected over the years. Our goal is to put something together for our Cole TR2 using the parts we have.

    We bought the motor complete, so we don't know a lot about the parts, but I can tell you it has a bowtie block, forged internals and Dart aluminum heads. Our plan is to do a cam swap and install a tunnel ram with two 750DP's. It has a roller cam, which was obviously set-up for the blower, so we'd like to install something that may work a little better with the tunnel ram.

    I understand we're asking a lot, without providing critical info about the motor, but I'm hoping someone may have a used cam, or know of a good production cam that may work well in this engine. I'd like to avoid pulling the heads, but that obviously makes it impossible to figure out the static compression.

    So what do you guys think? I know there are some great minds on this site! Can you help me select a cam for this motor? Keep in mind that this will be a cruiser and our expectations are low. We have no intention of racing it, just a simple cruiser for mid-week at the river.

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  3. #2
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    YOur title states Choosing the Correct Cam. Without you getting into the engine and giving more info the Correct cam can not be determined. I would highly recommend tearing into this thing and assessing what you have and go from there.
    Chris Straub
    Straub Technologies

    3HP is an A$$ Whooping!!! JW

  4. #3
    Senior Member Smallblocksperry's Avatar
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    everyone on this site wants you to do everything the hard way, pull the heads off, flow them, check static compression etc.

    if i were you i'd do a cranking compression test with the cam thats in it, pulll the cam thats in it out and see what kind of lift/duration it is, then put something similar lift wise back in it, so that you dont have to respring the heads, or pull them off, yea thats not the best way to maximize every last big of horsepower but if its just a river racer flatty then screw it, throw a cam in it and go have fun! dont sweat the small shit or you'll drive yourself crazy and end up like GN7 !

    probably wouldnt go to big on the duration though, its probably not to high of compression if it was under a blower.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smallblocksperry View Post
    everyone on this site wants you to do everything the hard way, pull the heads off, flow them, check static compression etc.

    if i were you i'd do a cranking compression test with the cam thats in it, pulll the cam thats in it out and see what kind of lift/duration it is, then put something similar lift wise back in it, so that you dont have to respring the heads, or pull them off, yea thats not the best way to maximize every last big of horsepower but if its just a river racer flatty then screw it, throw a cam in it and go have fun! dont sweat the small shit or you'll drive yourself crazy and end up like GN7 !

    probably wouldnt go to big on the duration though, its probably not to high of compression if it was under a blower.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
    H8-2-W8
    [email protected] first pass

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    I feel like the dart heads are gonna be way to big when you switch this deal to NA. Especially when you keep the "blower pistons" in. My recommendation is either a hydraulic roller or a solid flat tappet. Something around 258-264 @.050 on a 108 centerline.


    Nic

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    Thanks for the feedback guys. I realize this kind of project is probably frustrating for the experts because they realize with a little extra effort/money the motor could achieve so much more.

    The bottom line is, we have a complete boat without a motor, and a couple complete motors. So if we can combine some parts over a weekend and build a little lake boat that will do 90mph we'll be happy.

    nicwoods6 concerns over the heads are valid, however they have been milled quite a bit so I'm guessing the compression is higher than you think. Probably somewhere between 8 or 9 to 1. That and they haven't had any substantial port work.

  9. #7
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by husqy510 View Post
    Thanks for the feedback guys. I realize this kind of project is probably frustrating for the experts because they realize with a little extra effort/money the motor could achieve so much more.

    The bottom line is, we have a complete boat without a motor, and a couple complete motors. So if we can combine some parts over a weekend and build a little lake boat that will do 90mph we'll be happy.

    nicwoods6 concerns over the heads are valid, however they have been milled quite a bit so I'm guessing the compression is higher than you think. Probably somewhere between 8 or 9 to 1. That and they haven't had any substantial port work.
    Put a nitrous plate on it. It should love it.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
    H8-2-W8
    [email protected] first pass

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