Oil coolers. Tstat or not?
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Oil coolers. Tstat or not?

  1. #1
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    Default Oil coolers. Tstat or not?

    What do most people run?

    CP offers a big cooler w a 190-215 tstat, but there are also big coolers without a tstat.

    Any opinions on either???

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    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    When I put my deal together a friend of mine advised "the biggest cooler you can get!".
    He had problems with his blown deal, it was the builder not the chiller.
    I put a mondo cooler on a mild blown deal and had to add a t-stat to get any heat at all in it.
    Size the cooler to your deal and you should be fine without the t-stat.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

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    Senior Member 67weiman's Avatar
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    Have you run this motor before? If so, what kind of oil temps are you seeing? The BEST way would be to put a t-stat for the oil if you even need the cooler. You want the oil to get to temp to boil off condensation.

    I installed mine without a t-stat control and am running my water from the block thru it. I haven't had a chance to take the boat out since install but I was seeing 300* oil temps before the cooler install.
    Last edited by 67weiman; 04-19-2013 at 01:17 PM.

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    northern member Canuc's Avatar
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    run a big cooler stat in the engine water out warms the oil on cold start and cools it on full load
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 If your ran a cammer your odds of finishing WERE ZERO.

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    Monitor the temps first to confirm that you even need the cooler.
    I put the cooler and the temp gauge on at the same time and ended up never running water through the cooler and now have removed it.
    I have to run it hard for a while to get the oil temp up to even 220.

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    It got up to190 after getting up to 70 mph a couple times. After it hit 190, it stayed there while just cruising at 2700/40mph. Water temp never even moved.

    I should also mention that the water temp was probably mid 50s.

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    When you can get it to hang around 250, then think about a cooler. If you do get one, consider plumbing it like Canuc suggested, running the water leaving the engine thru it. You could use the heat.



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    Is you are only seeing 190* oil temps, you don't need an oil cooler at all. You want the oil to hit over 212* to boil off the condensation.

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    I never had a problem from my Dan Oslen oil cooler with the oil filter deal built in I think the part # 604.. I just plumbed in it into the intercooler supply and exit water lines Im 99.999% sure his dont run a T-Stat but I could be wrong...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tkriley13 View Post
    I never had a problem from my Dan Oslen oil cooler with the oil filter deal built in I think the part # 604.. I just plumbed in it into the intercooler supply and exit water lines Im 99.999% sure his dont run a T-Stat but I could be wrong...
    Let me guess, you don't have a flying clue what your oil temps is either.



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Let me guess, you don't have a flying clue what your oil temps is either.

    Oh Bob insert foot now! In my boats I always run multipule mechanical gauges (even a useless water temp gauge but I was only a 2nd year /20 years old apprentice when I built that boat/motor and had no clue blown motors run seperate #10 exit water lines so no temp ever registered) and that particluar boat ran harder in a 4 day weekend than most GN boats run all season especially considering I bet most of them go through motors left and right to make it every race and only maintance it got was 1 valve adjustment and oil change and check the timing and new plugs..
    I never backed off the valves on that solid flat tappet 640 GVL cam shaft that motor made it a little over 400 hours and it wasnt no slouch either. 15 Ibs of boost 35 degrees of timing on shitty old AV Gas from parker oil never mind the last summer I ran it I never could figure out why it was so hard to start come to find out the damper had spun so I actually had more than 50 degrees of timing in it to maintain the 35 degree lock out and it would still turn 7950 RPM`s I bet it still be running if the chevy block wouldnt have cracked and hydro the cylinder.
    But to answer your question thats how I gauged the motor was hot enough to mash the gas was by the oil temp being at 210 to 220 but I also had a 14 quart dooley oil pan and VR1 60 weight oil dont worry I still apreciate all your knowledge even tho your busting my balls!!!!

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    Finally was able get the boat out with the cooler installed, Water from the motor through the cooler. Oil temp would not register on my gauge under normal use. I restricted water into the motor and ran it hard across the lake. Water temp up to 150 and oil only got 160-170. Now I have milky oil in my valve covers. Oil in the pan is clean and no sign of water. Is this from condensation? I never had a problem before but got my oil a lot hotter...

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    This not unusal. Wouldn't surprise at all to see you have to run two line out of the engine. On thru the oil cooler and one straight overboard so that you don't have to restrict the water thru the engine more than you want to. That way you could limit the water thru the cooler and still allow water thru the engine.

    Yes, the oil running 160-170 will cause condensation in the valve covers.

    The oil you run has a big factor in the temps as well. Both Hass and Nelson 109 saw big temp drops by changing oil. If you run the right oil in a recreation boat, specially a smaller jet or v drive, you more than likely would never need an oil cooler. If the oil is happy as hell under 300, do you really need a cooler? If you can even get it to 250 with a an engine running at 150.



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  16. #14
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    Bob, before I installed the cooler. Oil temp would climb to almost 300* and hover at 260-280 cruising and water wouldn't register except at idle. Little hot for my liking.

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