crank trigger
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crank trigger

  1. #1
    Senior Member lupo1904's Avatar
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    Default crank trigger

    Do i need to change my distributor to run a crank trigger? I currently have a msd pro billet PN 85551.

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    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lupo1904 View Post
    Do i need to change my distributor to run a crank trigger? I currently have a msd pro billet PN 85551.
    No, it will work. The crank trigger gets connected to the box instead of the distributor,, and the distributor merely distributes the spark with no connection except from the coil wire.

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    Senior Member lupo1904's Avatar
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    I have a msd blaster coil, and a 6al box. Would i need to upgrade those to except the trigger?

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  6. #4
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lupo1904 View Post
    I have a msd blaster coil, and a 6al box. Would i need to upgrade those to except the trigger?
    No. The crank trigger is exactly what it sounds like. Its just a trigger. It does nothing more than the pickup in the distributor. Its just that simple.



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    Senior Member lupo1904's Avatar
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    Thanks

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lupo1904 View Post
    Do i need to change my distributor to run a crank trigger? I currently have a msd pro billet PN 85551.
    They gave you most of the info. You sure as hell should lock out your mechanical advance if there is some. It will not affect spark timing, it will affect where the rotor is pointing at the time of the spark.
    Wags

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    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    What are the benefits of a crank trigger ???
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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNYoungblood View Post
    What are the benefits of a crank trigger ???
    ROCK SOLID timing. NO jump. The first time I saw an engine with a crank trigger on the dyno.... went to set the timing and thought WTF....HOW AWESOME!
    If is truly unbelievable the first time you set timing with one. vs std trigger, std advance piece...
    Wags

  11. #9
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    They gave you most of the info. You sure as hell should lock out your mechanical advance if there is some. It will not affect spark timing, it will affect where the rotor is pointing at the time of the spark.
    Wags
    x2. don't forget getting the distributor in phase with the trigger...

  12. #10
    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    ROCK SOLID timing. NO jump. The first time I saw an engine with a crank trigger on the dyno.... went to set the timing and thought WTF....HOW AWESOME!
    If is truly unbelievable the first time you set timing with one. vs std trigger, std advance piece...
    Wags
    a must for a 7,000 rpm nitrous motor running 6* of retard. I couldn't imagine what the bounce must be without a trigger.

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  13. #11
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNYoungblood View Post
    What are the benefits of a crank trigger ???
    Like wags posted, it the steadiness of the timing. It eliminates the chain slop, the distributor gear slop, and most importantly the camshaft torsional twist and recoil. With a heavy spring roller this is immense. The camshaft wrap up and recoil with a heavy spring roller at 7000 is considerably worse than a flat tappet spinning 8500.
    Quote Originally Posted by bp298 View Post
    x2. don't forget getting the distributor in phase with the trigger...
    This actually waaaaaay more important than the locking out the advance that wags mentioned. When a standard distributor is timed properly, the thing still functions fine with 24* of advance. It wouldwith a crank trigger if the rotor was phased correctly and still had the advance mechanism functioning. It won't advance the timing at all, but it will still deliever the spark, and its useless to have it, and infinitely better to lock it out. But it would run, and you may never notice if you phased the rotor correctly to start with. But if its phased wrong, even with the advance mechanisim locked out, it could run like shit, if at all.
    My favorite way to phase a crank trigger is to punch a hole a 1"in an old used distributor cap right below the #1 plug wire terminal, set the rotor position when the crank trigger is in the right spot and fire it off and hit the hole with a timing light and check the location of the rotor, lock the distributor down and change out the cap.



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    Last edited by gn7; 04-26-2013 at 10:49 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Like wags posted, it the steadiness of the timing. It eliminates the chain slop, the distributor gear slop, and most importantly the camshaft torsional twist and recoil. With a heavy spring roller this is immense. The camshaft wrap up and recoil with a heavy spring roller at 7000 is considerably worse than a flat tappet spinning 8500.


    This actually more important than the locking out the advance that wags mentioned. When a standard distributor is timed properly, the thing still functions fine with 24* of advance. It wouldwith a crank trigger if the rotor was phased correctly and still had the advance mechanism functioning. It won't advance the timing at all, but it will still deliever the spark, and its useless to have it, and infinitely better to lock it out. But it would run, and you may never notice if you phased the rotor correctly to start with. But if its phased wrong, even with the advance mechanisim locked out, it could run like shit, if at all.
    My favorite way to phase a crank trigger is to punch a hole a 1"in an old used distributor cap right below the #1 plug wire terminal, set the rotor position when the crank trigger is in the right spot and fire it off and hit the hole with a timing light and check the location of the rotor, lock the distributor down and change out the cap.
    GN
    I agree with the putting a hole in an old distributor cap to align the pointer and terminal for getting it right.
    The hardest part is when you purchase a new distributor that is designed for a crank trigger, most of us don't have an old distributor cap and it's hard to purchase and destroy a new cap that's never been used.
    It wasn't near as hard the following season when I replaced the original distributor cap with a new one. I then had that old cap to drill the hole for phasing.
    Yea, I wouldn't go back to a standard distributor, if I could keep from it.

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