valve lash
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valve lash

  1. #1
    Senior Member ohflat's Avatar
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    Default valve lash

    i loosened the rockers last fall whats the procedure to set lash on full roller motor bbc

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  3. #2
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    I rotate my crank until #1 is in its firing position and adjust them in firing order. I go through the process a couple of times just to be sure they are where they should be.
    After the first round of adjustments, I also walk around the engine and feel the push rods and rocker arms to be sure nothing is really loose. If anything is overly loose, I started with the crankshaft 180*
    out of phase.
    I may be the only one who has ever made that mistake, but it can happen.

  4. #3
    Senior Member ohflat's Avatar
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    whats the best way to determan 1

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    number 1 is the front plug on the side of the engine the oil filter is on..........Dude If you don't know where # 1 is or how to get it on compression stroke,let someone that knows how do this for you...........

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    Led
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    I learned to start with number one and go to each cylinder in the firing order, however I have made some costly mistakes, whether it was my technique or parts failure or both, I now adjust on cylinder at a time, put both rockers on number one cylinder, rotate motor over until one of the valves is fully open (rocker down) then adjust the other rocker on that cylinder, then roll motor over until the rocker that u just adjusted is all the down, then adjust other rocker, now that cylinder is done, move to next cylinder, I do one side at a time

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    I learned to start with number one and go to each cylinder in the firing order, however I have made some costly mistakes, whether it was my technique or parts failure or both, I now adjust on cylinder at a time, put both rockers on number one cylinder, rotate motor over until one of the valves is fully open (rocker down) then adjust the other rocker on that cylinder, then roll motor over until the rocker that u just adjusted is all the down, then adjust other rocker, now that cylinder is done, move to next cylinder, I do one side at a time
    Very good advice LED you cannot run valves with after market cams and adjusted cam timing. One at a time and follow where the lobe is and adjust from there one at a time! That is how I have done it for years. It is easier with the manifold off and watch the cam roll but on an assembled engine, forget it ! Just roll the engine one valve at a time and watch the cam rotation and roll that way!

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    Senior Member Alter Ego's Avatar
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    EO/IC

    this is how I set mine. When the exhaust valve begins to open (EO), stop and set the intake valve on that cylinder. On the same cylinder, rotate the motor until the intake valve begins to close (IC), stop and set that cylinders exhaust valve. Just had a buddy that was having issues cuz he was trying to set it at TDC. He did it my way and it worked. There are many other write-ups online about this method, may wanna check it out.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alter Ego View Post
    EO/IC

    this is how I set mine. When the exhaust valve begins to open (EO), stop and set the intake valve on that cylinder. On the same cylinder, rotate the motor until the intake valve begins to close (IC), stop and set that cylinders exhaust valve. Just had a buddy that was having issues cuz he was trying to set it at TDC. He did it my way and it worked. There are many other write-ups online about this method, may wanna check it out.
    very very good advice,now you are adjusting the solid roller bump stick.stick your feeler gauge in from the side of the roller rocker not from the front

  11. #9
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    I learned to start with number one and go to each cylinder in the firing order, however I have made some costly mistakes, whether it was my technique or parts failure or both, I now adjust on cylinder at a time, put both rockers on number one cylinder, rotate motor over until one of the valves is fully open (rocker down) then adjust the other rocker on that cylinder, then roll motor over until the rocker that u just adjusted is all the down, then adjust other rocker, now that cylinder is done, move to next cylinder, I do one side at a time
    Not EXACTLY Led. Its adjust the intake when the exhaust just STARTS to open, and the exhaust when the intake just STARTS to close.
    You can use the FULL LIFT method, but not on the same cylinder:

    with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
    with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
    with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
    with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
    with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
    with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
    with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
    with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve


    with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
    with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
    with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
    with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
    with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
    with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
    with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
    with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve




    The alternative method if you don't like cranking on the breaker bar is:

    with a 18436572 firing order:

    with cylinder # at TDC

    #1 adjust #7 int & #4 exh
    #8 adjust #2 int & #3 exh
    #4 adjust #1 int & #6 exh
    #3 adjust #8 int & #5 exh
    #6 adjust #4 int & #7exh
    #5 adjust #3 int & #2exh
    #7 adjust #6 int & #1 exh
    #2 adjust #5 int & #8exh


    As for the rest of the TDC method gurus, are you adjusting the cam in a performance boat, or Grand ma's grocery getter. Never try that in even on a stock 1969 Z28 or a '62 Fuelie Vette, because you'll blow it big time. If you did that to my engine, you be .002-.003 loose EASY.



    Throughly confused now aren't you. Aren't you glad you asked Just here to help fellas.



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    Last edited by gn7; 05-23-2013 at 01:37 AM. Reason: correct typo..thanks boz

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    Led
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    GN - true, this is the most accurate, i will never remember that order, then take in account for my 4-7 swap, the reason I do the method of one at a time, I am certain the the valve i am adjusting is fully closed, close enough at least for 9 second jet.
    Last edited by Led; 05-20-2013 at 07:48 AM.

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    GN is correct this is the easiest way and no memory required I have been adjusting the valves on our A/FUEL dragster this way for a long long time with out problems
    (quote) Not EXACTLY Led. Its adjust the intake when the exhaust just STARTS to open, and the exhaust when the intake just STARTS to close.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    ...rotate motor over until one of the valves is fully open (rocker down) then adjust the other rocker on that cylinder, then roll motor over until the rocker that u just adjusted is all the down, then adjust other rocker, now that cylinder is done, move to next cylinder, I do one side at a time
    This method could be problematic, especially for someone new at it.

    If you set the intake lash with the exhaust wide open there's a chance the intake could be off the base circle into overlap resulting in a loose setting.

    If you use the EOIC method it's impossible to not be on the base circle.

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    The method I use is what I refer to as adjusting valves for dummies. (me)

    To do this I need a harmonic balancer thats degreed 360*.
    I used a dial indicator to locate the center of the heel of the camshaft for both the intake and exhaust. You only need to do one cylinder of each.
    It doesn't make any difference which cylinder you measure as every 90* is the point to adjust the next firing cylinder of either the intake or exhaust, but it needs to be one or the other until you've done all eight cylinders of either the intakes or exhaust.
    Then go to the other set of valves, whether it be intake or exhaust.
    It's important to know the firing order of your particular camshaft and I assume each camshaft could probably be slightly different. I use the 4-7 swap camshafts.

    I made a chart of the firing order and their particular degreed number, it was then laminated as I use every time. The laminating keeps oil off of the paper chart so it can be reused.
    When it's done this way, it is the same every time and takes 4 revolutions of the crankshaft. I also don't miss any valves.
    It may not be very professional, but for those of us who don't do it almost daily, it works.

    I've had the system of adjusting valves using the opening and closing system, and I get lost.

  16. #14
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alter Ego View Post
    EO/IC

    this is how I set mine. When the exhaust valve begins to open (EO), stop and set the intake valve on that cylinder. On the same cylinder, rotate the motor until the intake valve begins to close (IC), stop and set that cylinders exhaust valve. Just had a buddy that was having issues cuz he was trying to set it at TDC. He did it my way and it worked. There are many other write-ups online about this method, may wanna check it out.
    Ditto.
    Bob Hayes showed me that about 30+ years ago.
    Its the only way I have ever done it.

    Dont need firing order, and makes no difference whether its a two cylinder lawn tractor or a Slant 6, or a V8.
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