Sunken Fountain
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Sunken Fountain

  1. #1
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    Default Sunken Fountain


    A customer Sunk his 93 Fountain with Mercruiser 502MPI and Bravo 1. This is my first encounter with a sunken salvage job. Boat was under (fresh) water for nearly 12 hours before being noticed and retrieved. Drained Oil system + filter, Fuel system + filter and all hydraulic systems. I've turned engine over and cleared cylinders of water and sprayed water lube into cylinders to prevent as much corrosion as possible before future re-firing. as far as engine electrical is concerned, what all will i need to replace?? Any and all info and advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    I accidentally posted this same post in outdrives. If you someone sees it and thinks me an idiot, like i said, my bad.

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    Led
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    how far did it sink, completely 100% under? did all the gauges get submerged? some will say run diesel through the motor, some say dont, i would let the boat dry completely with alot of fans, fill all the fluids and test it, see what works and what dont

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    You need to get the engine started as quick as you can
    If For Some Reason I Do Something Worthy Of Recognition. God Provided The Ability And Deserves The Credit.


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    I'm good at sinking boats. Don't dry the motor out until you're ready to fire it. Keep it full of something...water is cheap so I like water, plus, it's already mostly full of water. Get the tanks cleaned out or setup an auxiliary fuel tank, the drain the oil/ water, fill up with diesel fuel, prime the oil pump, drain, fill with oil, fire it up and let it run for while... Get the oil hot, change it, repeat.

    The rotating electrical (starter, alt, trim pumps) will be fine till the sit for a few months, then they'll need disassembly, cleaning, oiling, and commutators polished.

    My gauges still work fine a year later, although some of the non sealed switches needed disassembly/cleaning/polishing.

    Any connection that saw + battery voltage while underwater will most likely have turned green by now, the sooner you attend to it the greater your chance of saving the wires and cables.

    Interestingly, my battery still works fine.
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 05-29-2013 at 01:12 PM.
    GN7: "If you were to have ever had two brain cells you could rub together and make heat, you be dangerous"

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    Thanks for all the info so far, the engine has been dried and prepped for fire but the batteries were found to be bad by the time i tried to fire it, soaked the cylinders with silicone spray until in the morning, hopefully it will fire on up. drained the fuel bowl and hydraulic lines, after firing, i'll be flushing them out. Anyone have any advice on what to flush the tanks with before refilling. I feel like a rookie again dealing with this sunken extravaganza. hitting one stump after another

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Jon Redmond View Post
    Thanks for all the info so far, the engine has been dried and prepped for fire but the batteries were found to be bad by the time i tried to fire it, soaked the cylinders with silicone spray until in the morning, hopefully it will fire on up. drained the fuel bowl and hydraulic lines, after firing, i'll be flushing them out. Anyone have any advice on what to flush the tanks with before refilling. I feel like a rookie again dealing with this sunken extravaganza. hitting one stump after another
    Get the tanks as dry as possible, then pull the sender unit (make a vent) and stick the blower side of your shop vac in the filler hole. Let each one go for an hour or so...they'll be dry enough. The 10% ethanol in modern gas will aborb a few drops and mix with the gas, but the shop vac blower should dry it out fairly completely.
    GN7: "If you were to have ever had two brain cells you could rub together and make heat, you be dangerous"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    how far did it sink, completely 100% under? did all the gauges get submerged? some will say run diesel through the motor, some say dont, i would let the boat dry completely with alot of fans, fill all the fluids and test it, see what works and what dont
    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    Get the tanks as dry as possible, then pull the sender unit (make a vent) and stick the blower side of your shop vac in the filler hole. Let each one go for an hour or so...they'll be dry enough. The 10% ethanol in modern gas will aborb a few drops and mix with the gas, but the shop vac blower should dry it out fairly completely.

    my bad, i wasnt clear on which tanks i was cleaning. im trying to clean the hydraulic motor tanks. trim/tilt , hydraulic seats, trim tabs, etc. etc.

    i really do feel bad for my customer
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    Hydraulic tanks should be sealed since they run double acting cylinders...I know mine are (trim and jack plate)
    GN7: "If you were to have ever had two brain cells you could rub together and make heat, you be dangerous"

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    Should be an easy deal at least it didnt go all the way down, x2 on get it running ASAP, I have heard good and bad about adding diesel, I would put fresh oil in it, run it, and change it, like said Lil water in fuel won't be a big deal, may have a factory water separator on it anyways,

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    trim tabs were sealed but the hydraulic seat and drive trim tab apparently werent sealed enough. I'm going to try and flush the tanks with a chleaning spray and let them dry. as far as the fuel tank, i've already replaced the separator and took a sample unfiltered, looked pretty safe. drained fuel pump n so on n so forth. gonna fire it tomorrow. thanks guys for all you're advice and info.

  13. #11
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Forget the silicone spray....you need something that mixes with water and oil....silicone does neither. Use gasoline in petroleum oil systems with some HEET (alcohol) to suck the water out or water and dawn dish soap in hygroscopic fluid systems.
    GN7: "If you were to have ever had two brain cells you could rub together and make heat, you be dangerous"

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