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? for you motor heads

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Default ? for you motor heads

    After reading the morel lifter thread, And i am running them, I went out to check a few things. I wanted to check valve lash and see if they had got loose or anything out of the ordinary. A few exhaust were on the loose side but nothing far out of adjustment. I had the headers off and ran the valves, I then put the headers back on and went to fire it off and water was coming out of 5/7 cyl. Not alot but enough to know I have a problem. I have a merlin block and the holes are blind tapped. I never retorqued the heads after the dyno becuase i was told there was no need to do this with the cometic gaskets.

    So, should i tear it down, or just retorque and run it? I did notice this after the last river trip, but i had just washed the boat and blew it off as water that was trapped inbetween the header flange and head.

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    steelcomp was here
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    If you think or know you have a problem, you need to fix it. Simple as that.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    If you think or know you have a problem, you need to fix it. Simple as that.
    OK let me put it this way Scott, what do you think it is? the head gaskets not sealing properly? or ????? Im open to any and all thoughts on this. I think the head gaskets are letting alittle water by, or the merlin II blocks arnt blind tapped.

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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    OK let me put it this way Scott, what do you think it is? the head gaskets not sealing properly? or ????? Im open to any and all thoughts on this. I think the head gaskets are letting alittle water by, or the merlin II blocks arnt blind tapped.
    I might be wrong but I dont think they are blind.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71hallett View Post
    I might be wrong but I dont think they are blind.
    Merlin II Blocks (Big Block Chevy)

    Tehcnical Specifications
    Material:High density cast iron
    Deck Height:9.800" (standard Chevy) or 10.200" (tall)
    Deck thickness:.600"minimum
    Cam bearings:Standard Chevrolet
    Main bearings:Standard Chevrolet
    Camshaft location:Stock
    Lifter bores:Indexed (stock .8437" bore)
    Bore:4.240 (hone to 4.250") or 4.490" (hone to 4.50")
    Maximum recommended bore:4.625"
    Cylinder wall thickness.250" @ 4.600"bore)
    Water jackets:Expanded for better cooling
    Lubrication:Priority main oiling system
    Filtration:Integral mount for spin-on filter
    Oil pan rails:Solid (stock width) can be clearanced for strokers
    Crank clearance:4.500" stroke crank w/o clearancing, 4.750" with clearancing
    Main caps:Nodular iron 4-bolt (1/2") with dowels
    Fuel pump:OEM mount
    Starter:OEM mount
    Motor mountsual (front & side)
    Cylinder head holes:Blind tapped to prevent leaks
    Weight:Approximately 270 lbs.
    Manufacturer:WorldProducts

    It has to be the head gaskets... I will know tomorrow when they come off.

    Can I reuse the cometis even if they were leaking and not retorqued?

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    TRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    If you think or know you have a problem, you need to fix it. Simple as that.
    But if you dont know what avenue to travel first Scott, and come on a tech forum and ask a perfectly legit question, how "should" one respond to the questioning???? My guess is, not the way you did!
    I wish i could give you an answer Tim, but i know well enough, to leave well enough alone!
    Sorry!
    Todd

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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    Thanks Futs. Have sprayed them and reused them with luck.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    futs, back off the rockers on those cylinders, block off your outgoin water line from the motor, pull the ingoin water line lose and pressureize it with air, see if the air leaks into those cylinders if it's leaking water at/or below 30psi, 30psi of air will find the leak just as easy, the air will rush outta the plug hole if you do in fact have a headgasket leak from the coolant passage area.

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    Spiral out MikeF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    After reading the morel lifter thread, And i am running them, I went out to check a few things. I wanted to check valve lash and see if they had got loose or anything out of the ordinary. A few exhaust were on the loose side but nothing far out of adjustment. I had the headers off and ran the valves, I then put the headers back on and went to fire it off and water was coming out of 5/7 cyl. Not alot but enough to know I have a problem. I have a merlin block and the holes are blind tapped. I never retorqued the heads after the dyno becuase i was told there was no need to do this with the cometic gaskets.

    So, should i tear it down, or just retorque and run it? I did notice this after the last river trip, but i had just washed the boat and blew it off as water that was trapped inbetween the header flange and head.
    Tim,

    Take a look at all of the tops of the pistons to see what kind of carbon (partially burned fuel) traces are on the tops.

    If they are clean (or cleaner) on the #5+7 pistons....then there is a water leak into the cylinders (the exh ports would be clean too).

    When you say coming out of the cylinders 5/7....with the headers off?.....maybe it is fuel.

    I'd retorque it to be sure that they are still as tight as they are supposed to be.

  12. #10
    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    futs, back off the rockers on those cylinders, block off your outgoin water line from the motor, pull the ingoin water line lose and pressureize it with air, see if the air leaks into those cylinders if it's leaking water at/or below 30psi, 30psi of air will find the leak just as easy, the air will rush outta the plug hole if you do in fact have a headgasket leak from the coolant passage area.
    Now that makes a lot of since coming from a guy from Oklahoma. I did the same thing to find a pin-hole leak in a cylinder many yrs ago.

    Sleeper CP

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  13. #11
    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    futs, back off the rockers on those cylinders, block off your outgoin water line from the motor, pull the ingoin water line lose and pressureize it with air, see if the air leaks into those cylinders if it's leaking water at/or below 30psi, 30psi of air will find the leak just as easy, the air will rush outta the plug hole if you do in fact have a headgasket leak from the coolant passage area.
    I could do the same with my leak down tester,just doing it the oposite way. Im still pulling the heads, Its been 2 weeks since the last trip and it was sitting in the cylinder for that long. There are a few other things i am going to check.

    Its funny though, I was spinning the engine over when i was doing the valves, you would think the water would of came out then and not when the headers were put back on. The engine never acted funny like it was hydraulicing or anything.
    Last edited by Futs; 08-04-2008 at 09:36 PM.

  14. #12
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    I could do the same with my leak down tester,just doing it the oposite way. Im still pulling the heads, Its been 2 weeks since the last trip and it was sitting in the cylinder for that long. There are a few other things i am going to check.

    Its funny though, I was spinning the engine over when i was doing the valves, you would think the water would of came out then and not when the headers were put back on. The engine never acted funny like it was hydraulicing or anything.
    sure you could but you'd have air passing the rings and making noise as well.


    cp, watch you talking bout willis? i do turn wrenches for a living i know a few tricks

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Im guessing head gasket. I had a crack in one of my cylinder heads-was leaking water into the #1 exhaust port. Took me a few minutes to notice it-I was on it hard before that...no hydraulics, or rather nothing was wounded... I know water doesn't compress, but air does so you have some room for error...

    if its going to be a few days before the heads come off, spray some rust inhibitor in the bore.

  16. #14
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    OK let me put it this way Scott, what do you think it is? the head gaskets not sealing properly? or ????? Im open to any and all thoughts on this. I think the head gaskets are letting alittle water by, or the merlin II blocks arnt blind tapped.
    Sorry...I didn't mean for that to sound like it did after I read it...point was that you know you have a problem. Just retorquing is sort of like throwing a dart at the dart board, hoping for a bullseye. You need to find the source of the water (the problem you know you have) and putting it simply, fix it. It could be many different things that would be almost impossible to diagnose with what you wrote, but my point not well made was not to just re-torque. I will say that my first thought with Cometics is that they are very surface-finish sensitive. I'm not sure why they'd all of a sudden start leaking, though.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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