Plugs, what am i looking at?
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Plugs, what am i looking at?

  1. #1
    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Default Plugs, what am i looking at?

    I know these plugs haven't been run in a manner to read them, but i really don't even know what to to discern from them at all and was hoping some pne could help clue me in.
    These plugs have only about 5 hours run time on them, of which they have been run on the trailer, idled thru a few no wake zones, 5 or six WOT passes, and a couple miles of cruising.
    Just wondering if there is something i need to be concerned about, or are they
    Ok?
    NGK heat range 8
    BBC 489cid, around 11-1
    Edelbrock victor ram
    Dual holly 600 dp's
    Timing is at 20* initial, 34* total.
    Engine was run with 100 octane fuel for the first 3 or four passes, and 91 octane with an octane booster( which I'm sure was no help), for two passes

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    #1
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  3. #2
    gn7
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    Only thing you can tell from those pics and the way you ran it before you pulled them is that they appear to be too cold. I would suggest a 7, possbily 6 after seeing the 7s.
    I am one of those that believes in the hottest plug you don't over heat. Others believe in the coldest you don't foul. In racing that might be OK. In a recreational boats its a bass ass backwards idea. JMO



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    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Bob, so a 7 is hotter than an 8? Is it the lower the number, the hotter the plug?

    I'm not here for a long time, I'm just here for a good time!
    If your not on the edge.......your taking up too much room......Drive it like you stole it!

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    18' Advantage http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-...k-project.html

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  6. #4
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by holorinhal View Post
    Bob, so a 7 is hotter than an 8? Is it the lower the number, the hotter the plug?
    Yes, NGK numbers go from hotter to colder as the number gets higher. 7 is hotter than 8.



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    Quote Originally Posted by holorinhal View Post
    Bob, so a 7 is hotter than an 8? Is it the lower the number, the hotter the plug?
    with NGK yes!

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Add on to my previous post, the only way to really read a plug is if you can go out and make a hard and I mean HARD pass and shut down, pull the plugs and then read. Idle time in and out of a 5mph channel will screw up reading a plug in a heart beat.

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    Add on to my previous post, the only way to really read a plug is if you can go out and make a hard and I mean HARD pass and shut down, pull the plugs and then read. Idle time in and out of a 5mph channel will screw up reading a plug in a heart beat.
    Agreed. Like I said, the ONLY thing you can tell from those pics is that they never saw enough heat. Aside from that, the pictures mean nothing.



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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    Add on to my previous post, the only way to really read a plug is if you can go out and make a hard and I mean HARD pass and shut down, pull the plugs and then read. Idle time in and out of a 5mph channel will screw up reading a plug in a heart beat.
    And if you're trying to read used plugs it's almost a waste of time.
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    Cannot add to whats been already shared. Here is chart I have used as a starting point. plug chart

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    Canoe Jockey Michael Thomas's Avatar
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    it is nice to see that you are using antiseize on the threads...most people don't do that
    "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance...Baffle them with bullshit"

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    A little antseize is ok, but if used to much it is a poor conductor and can lead to misfire probs. By the pics there is too much on them and could cause some weird misfire issues. Ngk uses a special coating on their plugs designed for use in aluminum heads and in my opinion no antiseize is needed.

  14. #12
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldelmn8tr View Post
    A little antseize is ok, but if used to much it is a poor conductor and can lead to misfire probs. By the pics there is too much on them and could cause some weird misfire issues. Ngk uses a special coating on their plugs designed for use in aluminum heads and in my opinion no antiseize is needed.
    Copper anti sieze is a much better plug anti sieze for plugs. The cad plating on the NGK is easier on the threads in aluminum heads than black Autolites, but I still perfer to use anti sieze. Even on iron heads.
    Not to sure about the conductor part. My plugs make the primary ground thru the seat, not the threads. Threads are the worse possibly electrical path.
    Misfires due to too much anti sieze tend to be due to anti sieze getting on the electrodes.



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Copper anti sieze is a much better plug anti sieze for plugs. The cad plating on the NGK is easier on the threads in aluminum heads than black Autolites, but I still perfer to use anti sieze. Even on iron heads.
    Not to sure about the conductor part. My plugs make the primary ground thru the seat, not the threads. Threads are the worse possibly electrical path.
    Misfires due to too much anti sieze tend to be due to anti sieze getting on the electrodes.
    First off I will say it is good he is using it but alittle over kill! Little dab will do it. Plugs ground thru the intire case and anti seize actually is a conductor. With a gasket seat plug using an aluminum gasket and head, you need all the help you can get! If it is a tapered seat no biggy.

  16. #14
    steelcomp was here
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    OP...you are using WAY too much anti seize and the aluminum stuff is not a very good conductor. It's good that you're using it, but as said, just a small dab will go a long way. GN is also right about the copper stuff. Cup engine builders a ways back found more power with the copper anti seize. Not saying you will, but it's an indication that there is a difference.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
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