what to use for dry exhaust coupling
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what to use for dry exhaust coupling

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    Default what to use for dry exhaust coupling

    I didn't know where to post this, I figure its on an engine, which goes on a dyno, so it fits!

    I'm movng my water inlet from the riser, to further back towards my exhaust diverter on my captain's call on my prop boat.

    there's a rubber coupling between the riser an the CC "T".

    What are the cheapest offerings for this?

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    I didn't know where to post this, I figure its on an engine, which goes on a dyno, so it fits!

    I'm movng my water inlet from the riser, to further back towards my exhaust diverter on my captain's call on my prop boat.

    there's a rubber coupling between the riser an the CC "T".

    What are the cheapest offerings for this?

    Thanks!
    Aside from the fact that there is virtually nothing you can use short of (stainless?) steel flex tubing will hold up under the heat. Be aware that the entire length of the exhaust from the manifold to the water entering point is going to get unbelievably hot. As every bit as hot as the exhaust manifolds in your car!!
    Is this thing under a engine hatch?? Not a smart idea!!!



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    Last edited by gn7; 06-13-2013 at 09:50 PM.

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    Really? I was under the impression offshore guys did stuff like this all the time?

    I was going to wrap the riser and CC pipe with high temp exhaust wrap though to keep heat down. But maybe I'll have to re-think this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    Really? I was under the impression offshore guys did stuff like this all the time?

    I was going to wrap the riser and CC pipe with high temp exhaust wrap though to keep heat down. But maybe I'll have to re-think this.
    They do, just relocate the water introduction in to exhaust flow, they still maintain the double wall all the way to the point of introduction. Water is still cooling the exhausr with a water jacket, its just exthended from the manifold to the point it enters the exhaust stream. They don't just move the water entry point like you're thinking.

    Wrapping won't make it run cool enough to be under a hatch, and its murder on the exhaust tubing. Its life will be greatly reduced due to the heat.

    You can have the exhaust modified with a water jacket that extends farther down the tuning from the manifolds. But I don't recommend you just move the water connection.



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    They do, just relocate the water introduction in to exhaust flow, they still maintain the double wall all the way to the point of introduction. Water is still cooling the exhausr with a water jacket, its just exthended from the manifold to the point it enters the exhaust stream. They don't just move the water entry point like you're thinking.

    Wrapping won't make it run cool enough to be under a hatch, and its murder on the exhaust tubing. Its life will be greatly reduced due to the heat.

    You can have the exhaust modified with a water jacket that extends farther down the tuning from the manifolds. But I don't recommend you just move the water connection.
    Now that you say that, I think I remember reading a post of a guy who found some tubing about the same OD as the ID of the riser where it joines with the pipe, and pressed it in there and then assembled it. He said it worked fine. Forgot about that, I think that would work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    They do, just relocate the water introduction in to exhaust flow, they still maintain the double wall all the way to the point of introduction. Water is still cooling the exhausr with a water jacket, its just exthended from the manifold to the point it enters the exhaust stream. They don't just move the water entry point like you're thinking.

    Wrapping won't make it run cool enough to be under a hatch, and its murder on the exhaust tubing. Its life will be greatly reduced due to the heat.

    You can have the exhaust modified with a water jacket that extends farther down the tuning from the manifolds. But I don't recommend you just move the water connection.

    GN - are you saying you can have existing dry headers modified to be jacketed? Or did I not read that correctly?

    I'm wanting to add a hatch to my boat...and that would be something I'm VERY interested in.


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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaZR View Post
    GN - are you saying you can have existing dry headers modified to be jacketed? Or did I not read that correctly?

    I'm wanting to add a hatch to my boat...and that would be something I'm VERY interested in.
    No. The OP has wet MANIFOLDS with jacketed risers. I am guessing the water enters the exhaust stream right at the end of the riser, and he wants to moved the water connection farther down the pipe, leaving the riser and the pipe to the point of water entry dry. Just saying I don't recommend that, and that the WATER JACKET needs to be extended.

    He doesn't have "headers" Only talking about one 4" pipe



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    Ah, ok...that makes sense.


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