Teague 509 blower motor jetting. Where to start suggestions? I'm real lean
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Teague 509 blower motor jetting. Where to start suggestions? I'm real lean

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    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Default Teague 509 blower motor jetting. Where to start suggestions? I'm real lean

    I know every motor is different but thought I would ask. I have a 28 Daytona with the teague 509. I added a new Weiand 8:71 with a superchiller and brand new Holley 750 blower carbs running 34 deg finish timing, and no vacuum leaks. The carbs came with 6.5 powervalves and 76 primaries with 86 secondaries. I was pulling around 6 pounds of vacuum so I swapped the powervalves to 2.5s. My pyrometer would show 1300 deg. right off idle and stay lean to full throttle. Plugs were showing very lean. I swapped the primaries to 80s and it was still lean. Before I go buy a bunch more jets has anyone got a ballpark range I should go from here ? The guys at Holley said I should be on the money right out of the box. So they were no help

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Slostad View Post
    I know every motor is different but thought I would ask. I have a 28 Daytona with the teague 509. I added a new Weiand 8:71 with a superchiller and brand new Holley 750 blower carbs running 34 deg finish timing, and no vacuum leaks. The carbs came with 6.5 powervalves and 76 primaries with 86 secondaries. I was pulling around 6 pounds of vacuum so I swapped the powervalves to 2.5s. My pyrometer would show 1300 deg. right off idle and stay lean to full throttle. Plugs were showing very lean. I swapped the primaries to 80s and it was still lean. Before I go buy a bunch more jets has anyone got a ballpark range I should go from here ? The guys at Holley said I should be on the money right out of the box. So they were no help
    first I am going to assume these are in fact Holley blower carbs with referenced PVs and you have a vacuum line going from the carbs to the intake manifold under the blower.
    Second, going from a 6.5 PV to a 2.5 made your situation worse, not better. Now the manifold has to drop to 2,5 inches of vac before the PV opens instead of just 6.5. It will make it run leaner until you get almost into boost. Once in boost, it doesn't matter what the PV number is, it will be open.

    Those carbs were never intended to be in a boat. They are set up to be in a way over powered car, cruising down the hiway with light throttle. Boats are under load climbing a hill full time. PVs in big boats seldom work as planned.

    Id put 84 in the primaries and leave the 2,5 PVs to start with. You need to jet it for WOT full boost, and the cruise is what is, unless you what to start playing with PV restrictors and air bleeds. It won't be lean at cruise if you have it right at WOT. It might be a little rich at part throttle cruise, but I doubt it. For get trying to jet it at part throttle, work on getting it right at full boost, full RPM'

    ARE YOU 100% certain you fuel system is up to the job??? If not, you're pissing in the wind until it is. All the jetting in the world can't fix a fuel system that can't do the job.

    PUMP, REGULATOR, LINES, FILTER, TANK VENTS all need to be up to the task.



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    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Yes they are blower carbs with referenced pvs plumbed to the intake below the blower and fuel system is -10 AN lines holding a rock solid 7 lbs all the time.

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    gn7
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    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
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    Considering the size of investment you have there another $ 350. for a wideband O2 sensor to know exactly what your A/F ratio is would be cheap.

    The EGT isn't going to tell you anything useful.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

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    gn7
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    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Wonder how we kept from blowing shit up without gadgets??
    1. blind ass luck????
    2. cracker jack box???
    3. went ahead and blew shit up anyway???
    4.
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    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    I would be open to trying it. I have a innovative brand wideband i bought for my snowmobile. Where should I mount the O2 sensor? I am running CMI exhaust with Etops.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Wonder how we kept from blowing shit up without gadgets??
    Usually by running the junk PIG rich and staying very far from the correct tune. With the wideband you can get it closer, safer.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Slostad View Post
    I would be open to trying it. I have a innovative brand wideband i bought for my snowmobile. Where should I mount the O2 sensor? I am running CMI exhaust with Etops.
    The only thing you can do is have a bung welded in the elbow that passes thru the water jacket.



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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    Usually by running the junk PIG rich and staying very far from the correct tune. With the wideband you can get it closer, safer.
    I guess without speedometers, you would all be diriving 100mph on surface streets and 20 on the hiways. How would know any different?



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    I guess without speedometers, you would all be diriving 100mph on surface streets and 20 on the hiways. How would know any different?
    Huh?
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    Huh?
    Ever seen one of these tuning devices. Pretty cool deals. Couple bucks apiece and you can put 8 of them in you engine.

    Tells the A/F, cylinder temp and timing are correct.

    Heres your oxy sensor, and cylinder thremocouple, for 2 bucks.

    Oh, and you can even you the freek'n thing to start the fire in the cylinder too!!







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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Yes, I have been there and done that. But when you see damage there and then correct the tune, its kinda like shutting the gate after the cows are out. You of all people already know this but I'll say it anyway. With the 02 setup you can see the tune in real time. not a result of the tune. You can get the fuel curve right from idle-cruise & wfo. I know a plug tells you most of that but I have found it to not be as accurate.
    How long did you idle before making the pass? How far did you drive back? Ususally doesn't show any heat in the plug till you make a few passes, then you cant pay much attention to the rest of the plug because you idled-cruised to much. BS, give me the 02 anyday. And that's my .02(no pun intended)
    Last edited by Hass828; 06-18-2013 at 05:24 PM.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
    H8-2-W8
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