Retorquing bearings for inspection.
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Retorquing bearings for inspection.

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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    Default Retorquing bearings for inspection.

    How do you go about tearing apart a used engine to inspect condition? Can I just pop off a main/rod cap and have a look and retorque them to stock specs?

    What if someone used a different torque number than stock and I set it to stock? Worst case? Best case? Is it even a good idea?



    The engine looks BRAND NEW inside, very low miles. But it had one flat camshaft lobe. I would love to inspect the bearings before installing it.


    I also found a ball and one inch long tube in the oil pan. The ball is the end of a pushrod that broke off. The tube is the next 1 inch of pushrod behind the end/ball. ALL the pushrods are in the engine and they look fine. Im guessing that some one had a pushrod failure and it damaged the cam lobe. Then they replaced the pushrod and hoped for the best till the came lobe went flat.





    If all looks great in the bearings then I would like to slap in another cam and lifters and run it.

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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    In my experience, trying to flush and run an engine that has a cam go flat will damage the bearings.

    If the engine is out and the pan is off I'd pull it apart and clean it out.
    Last time I tried to get away with it it ended up costing a lot more than bearings and a gasket set!
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    Led
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chop Shop View Post
    Can I just pop off a main/rod cap and have a look and retorque them to stock specs?

    What if someone used a different torque number than stock and I set it to stock? Worst case? Best case? Is it even a good idea?

    If all looks great in the bearings then I would like to slap in another cam and lifters and run it.
    should be fine, make sure you check several rods (front and rear), i would also look at the mains, rods probably are more critical, they will be first to go more than likely.

    chevy? ford?

    you can see what they are torqued to now, start low and put your torque wrench on them, when you get some movement you just past it, if the parts are stock, retorque to stock specs, check all the rods for proper torque...while your there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    should be fine, make sure you check several rods (front and rear), i would also look at the mains, rods probably are more critical, they will be first to go more than likely.

    chevy? ford?

    you can see what they are torqued to now, start low and put your torque wrench on them, when you get some movement you just past it, if the parts are stock, retorque to stock specs, check all the rods for proper torque...while your there.
    You can't check the torque of a fastener by how much torque it takes to break it loose. He'd better off just torquing them to stock specs.

    Chances are, if this thing had a lobe go flat (just one?) ane he tries to run it, in time the thing will eat itself. All that finely ground metal is somewhere, and my guess is, every where oil goes.



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    You can't check the torque of a fastener by how much torque it takes to break it loose. He'd better off just torquing them to stock specs.

    Chances are, if this thing had a lobe go flat (just one?) ane he tries to run it, in time the thing will eat itself. All that finely ground metal is somewhere, and my guess is, every where oil goes.
    yeah no by loosening, but by slightly over torque the bolt (then you would get an idea on what it was at...maybe?

    i had a ford that flatten a lobe, R&R the cam and lifters....then shortly there after...spun number 1 rod bearing...then was mad when i heard the knock and it got flat footed again head to the ramp...

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    and my daddy always told me the bottom end in a BBF was stout, which i believe they are .... until you start sending lots metallic around it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    yeah no by loosening, but by slightly over torque the bolt (then you would get an idea on what it was at...maybe?

    i had a ford that flatten a lobe, R&R the cam and lifters....then shortly there after...spun number 1 rod bearing...then was mad when i heard the knock and it got flat footed again head to the ramp...
    Led, it really doesn't matter whether you loosen or tighten it. Its the break away torque required to make the fastener move that throws you off. It takes more torque to move the fastener than the fastener is torqued to. Its why you should never sneek up on the torque when tightening a fastener, Maybe half it value when you snug it, then straight to the required value in one continuous smooth pull.
    The most accurate way to determine what torque value would be to ACCURATELY mark the head of the fasteners position, break it loose and then retighten it with a dial type wrench and watch what force it takes to get the fastener back to where it was. No perfect, but the closest way
    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    my daddy always told me the bottom end in a BBF was stout, which i believe they are .... until you start sending lots metallic around it.
    Ground cast iron shows no favorites. It takes down the very best, all the same.



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    Last edited by gn7; 06-20-2013 at 01:16 PM.

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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post


    Ground cast iron shows no favorites. It takes down the very best, all the same.
    Thats it right there. Torque it whatever you think is right but it won't matter, it's more than likely going to shit the bed due to metal.

    I know it's tempting to leave it together, I've done it, and it bit me in the ass.
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    Quote Originally Posted by thatguy View Post
    Thats it right there. Torque it whatever you think is right but it won't matter, it's more than likely going to shit the bed due to metal.

    I know it's tempting to leave it together, I've done it, and it bit me in the ass.
    ...and when asked why you (he, they...) didn't tear it down all the way and clean it right, the response is usually, "I couldn't afford it!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by ICECREAMAN View Post
    ...and when asked why you (he, they...) didn't tear it down all the way and clean it right, the response is usually, "I couldn't afford it!"
    yep! and "summer is here and i am in a hurry to get back out there"

    for no more time than it take to pull a motor out of a jet, (one hour, one person, if you take the logs off, FORD LOGS SUCK, and take your time)

    made it until Labor day, then bearing was done, and the best time here on the water is sept. oct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Led, it really doesn't matter whether you loosen or tighten it. Its the break away torque required to make the fastener move that throws you off. It takes more torque to move the fastener than the fastener is torqued to. Its why you should never sneek up on the torque when tightening a fastener, Maybe half it value when you snug it, then straight to the required value in one continuous smooth pull.
    The most accurate way to determine what torque value would be to ACCURATELY mark the head of the fasteners position, break it loose and then retighten it with a dial type wrench and watch what force it takes to get the fastener back to where it was. No perfect, but the closest way


    Ground cast iron shows no favorites. It takes down the very best, all the same.

    i understand that, make total sense, i have always been told about the 3 step to torque value, (45, 55, then 65)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Led View Post
    i understand that, make total sense, i have always been told about the 3 step to torque value, (45, 55, then 65)
    I would rather go from 45 straight to 65. The only time I vary from that, is on something with give, like head gaskets. I will pull them to 45-50, then let them sit for a day if I have the time in the build, and them the final pull.

    But on anything "solid" like a mains and rods, I go from snug to torqued.

    Go down to "step 6" This applies to anything except maybe head gaskets.

    Connecting Rod Bolt Torque Specifications



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    The most accurate way to determine what torque value would be to ACCURATELY mark the head of the fasteners position, break it loose and then retighten it with a dial type wrench and watch what force it takes to get the fastener back to where it was. No perfect, but the closest way.
    I like this.

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