Your thoughts on adding a thermostat
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Your thoughts on adding a thermostat

  1. #1
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Question Your thoughts on adding a thermostat

    Flat v-drive, 396 BBC, iron heads and block, +/- 10.5:1 CR, max rpm +/-5000, Neovane A-755 (I think) cam driven water pump

    Idles and cruises at 120*, gets up to about 160* running it hard. The reason I'm considering a thermostat is once it's up around 160* it doesn't want to idle all that well. I've also read that power and efficiency suffer if the engine is kept too cool. Thinking it might not be a bad idea to add one of those kits Rex sells.

    One of my concerns is; will allowing the engine to run warmer possibly cause detonation issues, running 10.5ish :1? (premium pump gas of coarse)

    Any thoughts? Pros, Cons?

    Thanks guys!
    Last edited by Budweiser; 08-09-2008 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Spell Check

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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Flat v-drive, 396 BBC, iron heads and block, +/- 10.5:1 CR, max rpm +/-5000, Neovane A-755 (I think) cam driven water pump

    Idles and cruises at 120*, gets up to about 160* running it hard. The reason I'm considering a thermostat is once it's up around 160* it doesn't want to idle all that well. I've also read that power and efficiency suffer if the engine is kept too cool. Thinking it might not be a bad idea to add one of those kits Rex sells.

    One of my concerns is; will allowing the engine to run warmer possibly cause detonation issues, running 10.5ish :1? (premium pump gas of coarse)

    Any thoughts? Pros, Cons?

    Thanks guys!
    i have a 489 12.1 roller,with alumunum heads run a 180 theromstat, on 91oct never a big deal.

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrera489 View Post
    i have a 489 12.1 roller,with alumunum heads run a 180 theromstat, on 91oct never a big deal.
    The thermostat kit that Rex sells comes with a 160*. They claim water temp will fluctuate between 160 and 190. What does yours max at with the 180* in there?

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    We put one on a jet boat, last season, had issues with the exhaust hose burning, and the headers getting hot. The headers were Lightning's, the t-stat by-pass, did not pass enough water to cool the hoses at idle. We ended up teeing into the supply line, one line feeds the header's, the other feeds the engine. Now the discharge from the t-stat, get discharged overboard. This set-up was tested last fall, seemed to be fine with a 160 degree hi-flow T-stat. Has worked fine all this season with no issues, stays right at 160.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
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  7. #5
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Wink Bump

    Just a little bump, I know there aren't many posts on the weekends.

    Looking for a bit more input please. Do it? Don't do it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Just a little bump, I know there aren't many posts on the weekends.

    Looking for a bit more input please. Do it? Don't do it?
    Don't do it!

    Power and efficiency can be lost with one, let alone the plumbing associated with it.
    IMHO

  9. #7
    cfm
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    I prefer 120-140... in that range anyway.

    Worry more about oil temp more than water temp in our boats.

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    I have always been told that for a gasoline engine you want the water as cold as you can get it. (I really don't know, I really only run alcohol.) That is why NHRA pro stock guys either have a water chiller in their pits, or feed ice cubes into the radiator between rounds. They want to stage the car with water temp as cold as they can possibly get it. In fact a crew chief told me that one run they made in testing was a total loss because the water temp was 110 when he let out the clutch. And that was unacceptable. as he said; "We should have caught that and towed it back to the pits."
    Those guys would love to have an endless supply of 60 degree water.

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    I'm suprised no one has mentioned oil temp.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    cfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    I'm suprised no one has mentioned oil temp.

    Psssst. Look two posts up from yours. LOL.

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    OOOPS yeh untill I put in an oil temp gauge I'd never have thought my water could be 120* and my oil 220*.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Actually that is quite common. My little boat I just built runs wide open and the oil temp stays about 120 to 140 degrees hotter than the outgoing water.

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Guys, I don't have a race boat. I just want to be able to go out for the day and have a great running boat. If 120 is where I want to be, then how do I adjust things so that it wont go too much higher? I really don't care what NASCAR or even "Grave Digger" runs. This is not a max output situation. What will make the engine reliable and trust worthy?

    Am I asking the wrong guys???

  16. #14
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    If you had an oil temp gauge you'd see how little water temp had to do with the price of tea in china. btw I have a rex 4 port therm housing sitting on my shelf It's yours if you want to pay the shipping.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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