[Question] 454 pushrod questions..
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454 pushrod questions..

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    Off Road Badass Bonzen's Avatar
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    Default 454 pushrod questions..

    Need to know if i can re-use the stock pushrods, or what is a good replacement for the cam and springs I'm runnin. I would like to stay with 5/16" if possible so I could re-use the stock guideplates, but you guys let me know what you think. Also, what are the lengths of the stock 454 gen V pushrods? I'm getting different answers all over the place and even after measuring mine with calipers I'm not getting the answers I'm reading on the internet.

    My motor is a Gen V, stock block(.030 over), stock iron peanut port heads, open chamber (118cc's) stock valves, .040 thick fel-pro head gasket, stock non-adjustable rockers & guide plates. No block decking/head shaving has been done.

    This is the cam I am running:

    11-236-4 - Xtreme Marine

    These are the valve springs I'm running:

    COMP Cams: Dual Valve Springs: 1.509" O.D. Outer, .697" I.D. Inner

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    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Some where in this section is a great thread on push rod length and a procedure on measuring for them posted by Steelcomp
    I'll look for it
    #55

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzen View Post
    Need to know if i can re-use the stock pushrods, or what is a good replacement for the cam and springs I'm runnin. I would like to stay with 5/16" if possible so I could re-use the stock guideplates, but you guys let me know what you think. Also, what are the lengths of the stock 454 gen V pushrods? I'm getting different answers all over the place and even after measuring mine with calipers I'm not getting the answers I'm reading on the internet.

    My motor is a Gen V, stock block(.030 over), stock iron peanut port heads, open chamber (118cc's) stock valves, .040 thick fel-pro head gasket, stock non-adjustable rockers & guide plates. No block decking/head shaving has been done.

    This is the cam I am running:

    11-236-4 - Xtreme Marine

    These are the valve springs I'm running:

    COMP Cams: Dual Valve Springs: 1.509" O.D. Outer, .697" I.D. Inner
    With non-adjustable valve train and no other changes to the engine you'll have to go with the lengths you're currently running. Don't worry about what the internet says...just measure yours. If you want to upgrade to a performance push rod, which probably isn't a bad idea, get the same length as you have now.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    With non-adjustable valve train and no other changes to the engine you'll have to go with the lengths you're currently running. Don't worry about what the internet says...just measure yours. If you want to upgrade to a performance push rod, which probably isn't a bad idea, get the same length as you have now.
    x2

    Only thing I would add though, is you may want to measure the base circle on your old cam and compare it to the new one. A few thou is not a big deal, but, just make sure it's not like .050 smaller or something like that. That way your pre-load on the lifter is not affected too much.


    Kinda off topic, but not really... seems like quite a bit of duration split to be running on a peanut port head.
    Last edited by six-oh-nine; 06-25-2013 at 02:35 PM.
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    Off Road Badass Bonzen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by six-oh-nine View Post
    x2

    Only thing I would add though, is you may want to measure the base circle on your old cam and compare it to the new one. A few thou is not a big deal, but, just make sure it's not like .050 smaller or something like that. That way your pre-load on the lifter is not affected too much.


    Kinda off topic, but not really... seems like quite a bit of duration split to be running on a peanut port head.
    Excuse my rookie-ness, but when you say base circle, what measurement is that on the cam? Circumference of the lobe or the actual shaft part?

    I choose that cam with the help of Comp's tech line/advice from another well trusted member on here/and my own research. It's borderline big, but the 112 LSA should make it doable for my wet logs and I know I'm not going to get it's full potential until i do a head upgrade in the future.

    The springs cam with the block and heads, so i didnt have a choice on those.

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzen View Post
    Excuse my rookie-ness, but when you say base circle, what measurement is that on the cam? Circumference of the lobe or the actual shaft part?

    I choose that cam with the help of Comp's tech line/advice from another well trusted member on here/and my own research. It's borderline big, but the 112 LSA should make it doable for my wet logs and I know I'm not going to get it's full potential until i do a head upgrade in the future.

    The springs cam with the block and heads, so i didnt have a choice on those.




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    Quote Originally Posted by six-oh-nine View Post
    x2

    Only thing I would add though, is you may want to measure the base circle on your old cam and compare it to the new one. A few thou is not a big deal, but, just make sure it's not like .050 smaller or something like that. That way your pre-load on the lifter is not affected too much.


    Kinda off topic, but not really... seems like quite a bit of duration split to be running on a peanut port head.
    That's why we have a team here...because that's a very good point.
    As far as the split, I might not disagree on the peanut port, but on a typical OEM iron head it's badly needed. Probably not going to hurt much on these either as long as the ex. isn't sucking water.
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    gn7
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    Comp assured him that cam was fine for wet logs. I had suggested one a we bit shorter than that but thats what CC told him would work.

    Would you believe somebody assmbled that thing with non adjustable valve train and it had a 305 Hyd Magnum Comp Cam in in it!



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    Last edited by gn7; 06-25-2013 at 03:49 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Comp assured him that cam was fine for wet logs. I had suggested one a we bit shorter than that but thats what CC told him would work.

    Would you believe somebody assmbled that thing with non adjustable valve train and it had a 305 Hyd Magnum Comp Cam in in it!
    He must of had much bigger plans for that motor than the state he sold it to me in. The cam that was in it was like a 256/267 @.050...108LSA....it's for sale in the SPAM section with brand new lifters if anyone's interested...$150

    Well thanks for the diagram GN, I'll go take some measurements when I get home, but that bad boy is goin in the block tonight barring some major issue...Im ready to get it all over with haha.

    But back to the pushrods... the set that came out of my old blown-up motor and the set that came with the new motor are different lengths...was there two different deck heights with the genV blocks?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzen View Post
    He must of had much bigger plans for that motor than the state he sold it to me in. The cam that was in it was like a 256/267 @.050...108LSA....it's for sale in the SPAM section with brand new lifters if anyone's interested...$150

    Well thanks for the diagram GN, I'll go take some measurements when I get home, but that bad boy is goin in the block tonight barring some major issue...Im ready to get it all over with haha.

    But back to the pushrods... the set that came out of my old blown-up motor and the set that came with the new motor are different lengths...was there two different deck heights with the genV blocks?
    Both engines are gen 5 correct? Are the ones that came with the new engine longer?
    Best to install the push rods with the intale manifold off so you can see how much the lifters are preloaded with which ever push rods you use.



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    Off Road Badass Bonzen's Avatar
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    The base circle on the new cam is approx .037 smaller then the old cam. This is the first lobe on the dizzy end.

    The heel to nose measurment on the old cam is approx 1.604, new cam is approx 1.607. Also first lobe on dizzy end.

    As far as the pushrods, the "new" ones that came with the new motor are shorter then my old ones...once again the below are approx measurments:

    Old short pushrod: 8.23"
    Old long pushrod: 9.27"

    New short pushrod: 8.18"
    New long pushrod: 9.16"

    Both motors are Gen V, one pc rear main seal.
    So not sure whats goin on

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    Measured with a 100 dollar pair of calipers....

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    gn7
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    Go back a study the diagram. Measuring from the heel to the nose is NOT the base circle.

    Makes sense that the new push rods are shorter, Alittle surprised that somebody gave it any thought, but I understand why.

    Now measure the BASE CIRCLE of your old shaft and the new one. Not the one that was in the new motor when you bought it.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzen View Post
    The base circle on the new cam is approx .037 smaller then the old cam. This is the first lobe on the dizzy end.

    The heel to nose measurment on the old cam is approx 1.604, new cam is approx 1.607. Also first lobe on dizzy end.

    As far as the pushrods, the "new" ones that came with the new motor are shorter then my old ones...once again the below are approx measurments:

    Old short pushrod: 8.23"
    Old long pushrod: 9.27"

    New short pushrod: 8.18"
    New long pushrod: 9.16"

    Both motors are Gen V, one pc rear main seal.
    So not sure whats goin on
    .005 on the shorter push rods is a wash...wouldn't lose any sleep over that at all. Even .011 on the long one is nothing to really worry about.
    Base circle difference reflects an .018" difference in lifter height so use the longer of each of the two push rods and you're good to go. If you order new after market push rods you can only get them in .05" increments anyway...unless you order custom two or three piece deals.
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