Engine bearings?
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Engine bearings?

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    Frank my lord Blown$um's Avatar
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    Smile Engine bearings?

    I've been running a blown alcohol 427 bbc for the last 3 years pretty much problem free. I've ran it pretty hard, upwards usually 8500 rpms and an ops one time to 9500 which cost me 3 broken valve springs. That being said I've now stopped running it as of this last weekend to freshen it up on the bottom end. First going to check condition of top end by a leak down test, and go from their. But my main question is, does that diluted methonol oil in pan eat away at the bearing material? I know their made of several metal layers. Tin, aluminum,lead ect. Should the cam bearings also be changed and what about the oil pump? Is their anything else I should be doing when I freshen this thing up? This motor came in this hydro when bought and have never pulled motor out of it, I couldn't tell you what crank, rods, pistons are in this thing. I only know about top end since I replaced vale springs at beginning of year. I thought would have spilled its beans by now lol
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  3. #2
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown$um View Post
    I've been running a blown alcohol 427 bbc for the last 3 years pretty much problem free. I've ran it pretty hard, upwards usually 8500 rpms and an ops one time to 9500 which cost me 3 broken valve springs. That being said I've now stopped running it as of this last weekend to freshen it up on the bottom end. First going to check condition of top end by a leak down test, and go from their. But my main question is, does that diluted methonol oil in pan eat away at the bearing material? I know their made of several metal layers. Tin, aluminum,lead ect. Should the cam bearings also be changed and what about the oil pump? Is their anything else I should be doing when I freshen this thing up? This motor came in this hydro when bought and have never pulled motor out of it, I couldn't tell you what crank, rods, pistons are in this thing. I only know about top end since I replaced vale springs at beginning of year. I thought would have spilled its beans by now lol
    You'll know if the cam bearing need to be replaced, any bearing for that matter. They will be visably etched it the methanol and or water and acid got to them. I replace the bearings if they obviously look like they need it, but also if they lost any of their crush and don't stay snug in the rod and cap, or main saddles.

    I would seriously consider changing the rod bolts, specially after your one ooops. I would stay away from L19 bolt in a methanol deal if you are not religious about changing the oil. The ARP 2000 is almost impervious to corrsion.

    It hasn't spilled its beans because its tougher than a SBC



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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown$um View Post
    I've been running a blown alcohol 427 bbc for the last 3 years pretty much problem free. I've ran it pretty hard, upwards usually 8500 rpms and an ops one time to 9500 which cost me 3 broken valve springs. That being said I've now stopped running it as of this last weekend to freshen it up on the bottom end. First going to check condition of top end by a leak down test, and go from their. But my main question is, does that diluted methonol oil in pan eat away at the bearing material? I know their made of several metal layers. Tin, aluminum,lead ect. Should the cam bearings also be changed and what about the oil pump? Is their anything else I should be doing when I freshen this thing up? This motor came in this hydro when bought and have never pulled motor out of it, I couldn't tell you what crank, rods, pistons are in this thing. I only know about top end since I replaced vale springs at beginning of year. I thought would have spilled its beans by now lol
    Pictures would help! Any advice is guess work without seeing the remains!

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    Pictures would help! Any advice is guess work without seeing the remains!
    Didn't you get enough pictures back in ChopShop's thread in bolt re-torquing



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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Didn't you get enough pictures back in ChopShop's thread in bolt re-torquing
    I am sorry I thought this was a different topic! Or do you feel the need to do what you do best?

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    Senior Member steele211's Avatar
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    I did notice on the 470 when we pulled it down the first time that the milked oil had started in on the bearings. They were starting to show signs of pitting.

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    I guess I don't spend enough time on the site to keep up with all the stuff! I have other things to do and it WAS fun!! Just trying to add advice and help!

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    I guess I don't spend enough time on the site to keep up with all the stuff! I have other things to do and it WAS fun!! Just trying to add advice and help!
    Christ Mark, chill out. I was just kidding. Bearing pictures tend to be near useless unless it some obvious problem or they ahot with good high resolution camera which they seldom are. Just like ChopShop's pics. You couldn't see any crud on the bearing pics, but we all knew it was there.

    Reading bearings on the internet is like reading plugs.



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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Christ Mark, chill out. I was just kidding. Bearing pictures tend to be near useless unless it some obvious problem or they ahot with good high resolution camera which they seldom are. Just like ChopShop's pics. You couldn't see any crud on the bearing pics, but we all knew it was there.

    Reading bearings on the internet is like reading plugs.
    Sorry Bob! At times I can't figure out if you are being serious or joking! Also I agree trying to read a bearing on this site is like jacking off with a wire brush or getting married, thought it was a good idea at the time.!!!! But you really can't get a good idea!!!

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    First off, Bearings,Rod bolts, don't matter if it has aluminum rods. So if it has, which I personally would hope. New rods are a factor, rings and bearings are required lol
    Hey Bob, Just trying save some heartache! Lol

  13. #11
    Frank my lord Blown$um's Avatar
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    Default Bearings

    I'm planing on rod and main bearings for sure that's a given, I don't think I explained my question right. How long or how many passes should I expect to be replacing the bottom end? Once a year, every 3 years? That's why the question about the alky contaminated oil if that does contribute to corrosion? And yes I'm religious about oil changes, I've been running that vr1 valvaline 20/50 but really high oil pressures 100-120 psi 80-90 warmed up. I just went to a straight 40wt vr1 valvaline to help reduce oil pressures and see if it warms up quicker. It runs about 100 cold and 75 psi warmed up. I haven't pulled motor as of yet. I did a leak down test at end of last year and all cyl. Within 1-1.5 percent, that's why I want to check before pulling out to see where it's at now.
    "Ill be your huckleberry"

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    Frank my lord Blown$um's Avatar
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    Default One more

    Another question? If a proven engine with 1 percent leak down. When an engine with 12-1 compression and 18lbs boost and spinning 8k hit the rev limiter on a 7al2plus ignition system running alcohol, it seems to be developing blowby only when on rev limiter. All zoomies completely free of any signs of oil burning as goes for the plugs too? And only out passenger side valve cover vent. Cheesy push in breathers! But after pass zero blowby only when hits rev limiter. Putting sealed system with puke tank before ran again. Can an engine develop blowby as I have described above?
    Last edited by Blown$um; 06-28-2013 at 11:22 PM.
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  15. #13
    Frank my lord Blown$um's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    You'll know if the cam bearing need to be replaced, any bearing for that matter. They will be visably etched it the methanol and or water and acid got to them. I replace the bearings if they obviously look like they need it, but also if they lost any of their crush and don't stay snug in the rod and cap, or main saddles.

    I would seriously consider changing the rod bolts, specially after your one ooops. I would stay away from L19 bolt in a methanol deal if you are not religious about changing the oil. The ARP 2000 is almost impervious to corrsion.

    It hasn't spilled its beans because its tougher than a SBC
    Your dead right on that sbc thing, I used to be hard core sbc, but after my first blown bbc I've never looked back lol
    "Ill be your huckleberry"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown$um View Post
    I'm planing on rod and main bearings for sure that's a given, I don't think I explained my question right. How long or how many passes should I expect to be replacing the bottom end? Once a year, every 3 years? That's why the question about the alky contaminated oil if that does contribute to corrosion? And yes I'm religious about oil changes, I've been running that vr1 valvaline 20/50 but really high oil pressures 100-120 psi 80-90 warmed up. I just went to a straight 40wt vr1 valvaline to help reduce oil pressures and see if it warms up quicker. It runs about 100 cold and 75 psi warmed up. I haven't pulled motor as of yet. I did a leak down test at end of last year and all cyl. Within 1-1.5 percent, that's why I want to check before pulling out to see where it's at now.
    Alot depends on setup. cars on the track, 80 to 100 passes with aluminum rods.So Do you know the history of the engine before you ran it pretty hard for 3 seasons? if it leaks ok, I would be OK. But if you don't have aluminum rods..... it's hard on the crank and bearings so It might be a good idea to have a looksey, I would change them out while your in there, But if it has aluminum those can get eggy in that case your rebuilding anyway..... Make sense?

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