Battery Charging ???
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Battery Charging ???

  1. #1
    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    Default Battery Charging ???

    Over the weekend at the race I was putting my battery on charge between rounds. I thought i was done and they gave us a expedition pass if we wanted it. I didn't charge the battery and figured it would be fine. Engine ran perfect all weekend but on that last pass. It sounded like I was chopping the throttle but wasn't. Ran fine at 2500 RPM but would cut out if you gave it any throttle. Looked the boat over checking all the grounds and connections and everything looked fine. I put the battery on charge when I got home and got it to full charge. Fired the engine, warmed it up and held it at 5500 for a sec and nothing. Ran and sounded great !!! I'm running a mini 50 amp alternator, new Optima battery. All I have on my boat is a elec fuel pump, digital MSD 6 AL and bilge pump and a tach and 2 more gauges. Why wouldn't my alternator keep the battery charged?? Or might there be another problem when things get warmed up ??? And is it ok to put my charger on 10 amps to charge this AGM battery between rounds?? I just always charge them batterys at 2amps. I did check the volts with the boat running and it's 14 volts.
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    Do a little research on AGM battery's, they require a special battery charger designed for AGM type.
    They aren't that uncommon with newer chargers, but the flooded batter, AGM and GEL batteries have individual requirements.

    The wrong charger on a AGM battery can lead to a fire.

    I have a 55amp mini alternator that I run and have never had a problem with the battery staying charged.
    Check the voltage output and the belt.

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    Mike, Did ya ever get to see the video of the run?

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    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Till View Post
    Mike, Did ya ever get to see the video of the run?

    Just the ones the Ol lady took !!!!
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  7. #5
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNYoungblood View Post
    Over the weekend at the race I was putting my battery on charge between rounds. I thought i was done and they gave us a expedition pass if we wanted it. I didn't charge the battery and figured it would be fine. Engine ran perfect all weekend but on that last pass. It sounded like I was chopping the throttle but wasn't. Ran fine at 2500 RPM but would cut out if you gave it any throttle. Looked the boat over checking all the grounds and connections and everything looked fine. I put the battery on charge when I got home and got it to full charge. Fired the engine, warmed it up and held it at 5500 for a sec and nothing. Ran and sounded great !!! I'm running a mini 50 amp alternator, new Optima battery. All I have on my boat is a elec fuel pump, digital MSD 6 AL and bilge pump and a tach and 2 more gauges. Why wouldn't my alternator keep the battery charged?? Or might there be another problem when things get warmed up ??? And is it ok to put my charger on 10 amps to charge this AGM battery between rounds?? I just always charge them batterys at 2amps. I did check the volts with the boat running and it's 14 volts.
    It the battery had enough power to start the engine, it had enough to run the MSD to 12,000.
    Quote Originally Posted by jimsplace View Post
    Do a little research on AGM battery's, they require a special battery charger designed for AGM type.
    They aren't that uncommon with newer chargers, but the flooded batter, AGM and GEL batteries have individual requirements.

    The wrong charger on a AGM battery can lead to a fire.

    I have a 55amp mini alternator that I run and have never had a problem with the battery staying charged.
    Check the voltage output and the belt.
    Your 55amp alternator have a flooded/Gel/AGM switch on it? Or does all this BS only apply when charging the battery with a battery charger putting out a whimpy ass 2-10 amps. Just ask'n



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    Last edited by gn7; 07-12-2013 at 05:33 AM.

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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Any battery that needs tending is not a battery, but rather a capacitor.
    IMO......
    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
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    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    Would a coil goin bad cause it to happen ??
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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNYoungblood View Post
    Would a coil goin bad cause it to happen ??
    It could, but usually a coil going away does so slower than that. Its not usually good 1 minute and bad the next.

    Running it up to 5000 on the trailer doesn't prove much. There is no load.

    If its a can type coil, standard blaster coil its possible that its failing inside. They don't take vibration and pounding very well.



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    Last edited by gn7; 07-12-2013 at 06:08 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It could, but usually a coil going away does so slower than that. Its not usually good 1 minute and bad the next.

    Running it up to 5000 on the trailer doesn't prove much. There is no load.

    If its a can type coil, standard blaster coil its possible that its failing inside. They don't take vibration and pounding very well.
    I just had a Mercury COP start failing on my last trip

    Went 10 miles and it would drop rpm and pick back up and so forth

    They do go bad from time to time. 4th coil in a 1000 hrs of boating

    Sucker costs $144 bucks

  12. #10
    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    It's a blaster coil. It felt like something in the ignition was breaking down. Like I said it was like I was chopping the throttle. Kinda like the fire was coming on and off but at 2500 RPM it would do ok.
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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigSteve View Post
    I just had a Mercury COP start failing on my last trip

    Went 10 miles and it would drop rpm and pick back up and so forth

    They do go bad from time to time. 4th coil in a 1000 hrs of boating

    Sucker costs $144 bucks
    I swear, COPs must be made in Taiwan by kindergarders. We carry spares in the shop trucks and change them out as needed when refueling them or oil changes.
    Pretty sad considering they only have to fire one freek'n cylinder and that's all the longer they can last.

    One thing to keep in mind is that a COP or any other coil on induction ignition is acting as a true step up coil and they have to rise and collapse. A MSD coil acts as a transformer, and has zero rise, and has no power/charge in it except when it is actually firing.

    The wrong voltage/current to a COP or any induction coil will smoke it. Not so with a MSD. The wrong coil will smoke the box, but not the coil. be us. The only WRONG coil application I know of with a MSD is the old Pro Power red coil that could only used for short duration drag applications. Nobody even uses that POS any more.



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    Last edited by gn7; 07-12-2013 at 07:24 AM.

  14. #12
    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigSteve View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It could, but usually a coil going away does so slower than that. Its not usually good 1 minute and bad the next.

    Running it up to 5000 on the trailer doesn't prove much. There is no load.

    If its a can type coil, standard blaster coil its possible that its failing inside. They don't take vibration and pounding very well.
    I just had a Mercury COP start failing on my last trip

    Went 10 miles and it would drop rpm and pick back up and so forth

    They do go bad from time to time. 4th coil in a 1000 hrs of boating

    Sucker costs $144 bucks


    That's what my boat was doing !!
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  15. #13
    gn7
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    Get your self a HVC coil. Or even a Blaster SS. The Blaster canister type coils suck in boats. It doesn't take much to rattle one apart.



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  16. #14
    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
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    Thanks guys
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