Fuel pump question
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Fuel pump question

  1. #1
    Senior Member n8dawg's Avatar
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    Default Fuel pump question

    Anybody run a Race Pump fuel pump? I ran out of gas and when I filled up the tanks and tried starting it there is no fuel pressure. Just wandering if I need to rebuild it. Also took off the fuel filter/water seperator. It was full of all kinds of stuff. i found sand and even some metal shavings in there!
    A new one is on the way. Just wandering if I should order a rebuild kit for the pump as well. Or wait and see if a clean filter will do it.

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  3. #2
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    you run a non bypass regulator right? prob gonna have to bleed the lines to get the piston in the pump to do some work, maybe prime the pump alil.

  4. #3
    cfm
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    No experience with that pump, but I would definately thing if sand/metal passed thru it it's bores/o-rings would be scratched up.

    I like to run large flowing 60-100micron ss screen type filters before any pump and then the water seperator with it's paper type element between pump and carb. Provides total fuel system protection with proper flow.

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  6. #4
    Just another Wannabe Wannabe's Avatar
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    We had the worst luck with those on our boat. We tried them on our brand new little small block boat and had some real problems. The thing would work great until the bouncing around and then we would lose pressure. Bang it with a crescent and the pressure would come back. Then a straightaway and back off with no pressure again. We chased the problem and could not find anything. Then put a CV nascar style pump and have not had a single problem since. I don't know if it was the rough nature of our boat or whatever, but two new racepumps and got three trips to the lake. Not one of the trips did we keep fuel pressure for a full minute.
    They are dyno pumps now. I may have purchased two flops, but I didn't want to try my luck with a third.
    If yours was working fine, I would say give everything a good cleaning and try it again. If it does not work up to par, buy the rebuild kit. But with the description of what was in the line, a good leaning is in order.

  7. #5
    gn7
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    if you go to their web site and read enuff you find alot of bitching. The one thing for sure is that the pump absolutely cannot pump fuel AT ALL on the starter motor. If you run out gas you have to fill the bowls or at least start the motor by pouring a little fuel down the carb(s). The pump has some serious issues that we are still trying to work out and don't really know if the pump is worth the work or the price.



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  8. #6
    cfm
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    Awesome info guys !

    Definately been one of those products that I feel I would have been soon to use in a build up. I have been saying that for a few years now, guess I can put that feeling to rest/bed/grave/etc.

    Have not been disattisfied with conventional mechanical pumps in any marine application yet, so I guess that is that.

    Thanks again.

  9. #7
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    I just put one on my setup about three weeks ago because of the electric pump blues that I've had for the last ten years, I've tried just about every kind of elecric pump - regulator setup out there and they just wont work when trien to draw out of the top of saddle tanks.
    I installed the race pump and have been to the lake about 6 times and have had great luck with it. I do have to addmit that I dont care for their regulators. I had to reseat mine by taking the inlet fitting out and tapping the ceremic ball with a blunt punch then it worked OK but I still sent it back and got me a Magnafuel regulator, they are designed to handle up to 60psi inlet press.
    Now everything is great, maintains 8psi press. at wot and doesnt air lock and has enough capacity that I also set another regulator and run my nos off of it also.
    Big block, twin turbo's , 17psi of boost with a 325 shot of nos and the pump keeps up just fine at 7200rpms.
    I have to disagree with gn7 as mine does pump up when cranking the engine over. but if you sucked it dry and also your carb, just prime the bowls with an old coke bottle full of fuel with a grease jug nozzle screwed on it, fire it up and it'll pick up.

  10. #8
    Senior Member VDRIVERACING's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    I just put one on my setup about three weeks ago because of the electric pump blues that I've had for the last ten years, I've tried just about every kind of elecric pump - regulator setup out there and they just wont work when trien to draw out of the top of saddle tanks.
    I installed the race pump and have been to the lake about 6 times and have had great luck with it. I do have to addmit that I dont care for their regulators. I had to reseat mine by taking the inlet fitting out and tapping the ceremic ball with a blunt punch then it worked OK but I still sent it back and got me a Magnafuel regulator, they are designed to handle up to 60psi inlet press.
    Now everything is great, maintains 8psi press. at wot and doesnt air lock and has enough capacity that I also set another regulator and run my nos off of it also.
    Big block, twin turbo's , 17psi of boost with a 325 shot of nos and the pump keeps up just fine at 7200rpms.
    I have to disagree with gn7 as mine does pump up when cranking the engine over. but if you sucked it dry and also your carb, just prime the bowls with an old coke bottle full of fuel with a grease jug nozzle screwed on it, fire it up and it'll pick up.

    Good to hear they're working for someone. I could not keep pressure. Worked OK on the trailer and no-wake speed, but lost pressure as soon as I sped up. After multiple trials, tossed it out.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VDRIVERACING View Post
    Good to hear they're working for someone. I could not keep pressure. Worked OK on the trailer and no-wake speed, but lost pressure as soon as I sped up. After multiple trials, tossed it out.
    I plumbed it exactly by their diagram , with the big system one filter ,#10 supply line and all, that way if something didnt work it wouldnt be because of my setup, everything works great.
    Hell I have my carb and my nos regulators booth boost referenced and have a little air regulator inline so I can let them see however much boost I want them to see and I can turn it up until when the boost comes in it pegs both of the guages out so there is way more press. and volume than I'll ever need.
    When I'm at an idle the carb fuel press. is at 9psi and at wot it is still exactly at 9psi.
    when I'm at an idle the nos fuel press. is at 7.5psi and at wot it is set to climb to 12psi flowing, remember that I'm delivering nos into a boosted condition, work perfectly.

  12. #10
    steelcomp was here
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    I've had far fewer problems with electric fuel pumps, even drawing from the top of saddle tanks than most seem to have with mech. Make sure you have good grounds, put the pump as close to the tank and as high as possible, and run the pump off a relay, not a switch on the dash. As little as it may be, mech pumps rob HP.
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  13. #11
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    I've had far fewer problems with electric fuel pumps, even drawing from the top of saddle tanks than most seem to have with mech. Make sure you have good grounds, put the pump as close to the tank and as high as possible, and run the pump off a relay, not a switch on the dash. As little as it may be, mech pumps rob HP.
    According to makers of electric pumps like Barry grant , holley and Mallory , the consenses seems to be the same story from all of them that an electric pump wont draw worth a damn and one time it'll work great and you think you've got it fixed then the next trip out it goes to hell. And according to the pump manufactures the problem gets worse as the fuel pump size gets larger, causes cavitation.
    But maybe their just badmouthing their own products , from my experience with them I agree with the manufactures.
    Mechanical pumps are designed to draw from the back of a car to the engine block, and if you've ever ran a car out of gas then you know that you can pour a little fuel in the tank , crank it a little and it'll pick up so the mechanicals dont air lock like the electrics do, they'll purge and air pocket right out and keep on pumping.
    as for the hp requirement, these racepumps only put 35lbs of pushrod force on the cam to make 50psi of pressure verses 125lbs of pushrod force on a stock pump.
    I would bet that if you were to run an alternator and turn on two large fuel pumps(one for nos and one for carbs) that the alternator draw would pull every bit as much hp as the racepump and maybe more.

  14. #12
    steelcomp was here
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    According to makers of electric pumps like Barry grant , holley and Mallory , the consenses seems to be the same story from all of them that an electric pump wont draw worth a damn and one time it'll work great and you think you've got it fixed then the next trip out it goes to hell. And according to the pump manufactures the problem gets worse as the fuel pump size gets larger, causes cavitation.
    Then I guess they should all be out of business.
    Most electrical pump failures or problems are due to improper application or installatiion.
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  15. #13
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Then I guess they should all be out of business.
    Most electrical pump failures or problems are due to improper application or installatiion.
    Well steelcomp, I'm not wanting to get into a pissin contest with you cause I know that you know your stuff when it comes to engines but on all of my electric setups I always set them up on their own relay with a dedicated ground and #10 feed line with the big stainless high flow filters , had return style reg.s and dead head styles several different pumps and always had them mounted as close to the tanks as possible , usually no more than 16-18" of line. filter and all.
    Everytime I would make a pass and let off the gas they would air lock and I'd have to shut the engine off , take a wrench and loosen the outlet on the pump and bleed the air and they would work till the next time I tried to slow down.
    Had Imco make me some special made saddle tanks with trap doors to keep the fuel at the pickups, made it a little better but still if I set the fuel pressure in the shop then towed two miles to the ramp I might only have two pounds when I turned them on, sometimes I could bleed them , mess with it for a while then all of a sudden it would start working again till a couple more times of use and then it would return again.
    the manufactures said that the problem was that electrics are designed to be mounted low under a fuel cell and to push fuel, not draw it and that the cavitation from drawing the fuel would certainly cause this intermitent bullzhit.
    And that I needed to be running a mech pump for what I was doing and from my experience so far they were right.
    also on another note, now that I have a fuel system that will keep up I've found that my engine has a hell of a top end charge that I never had before .
    I just went out yesterday and made a 1000ft pass and clicked the ole gps to 120mph. plenty left in it too, now comes some serious tuning.
    Not bad for a heavy old lake boat with small cid with one carb and watercooled exhaust, an air cleaner and water coming out of the pipes, even if it does have a couple turbo's
    Last edited by Hass828; 08-30-2008 at 07:42 PM.

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