building a brpv setup using hat stud for reference on blowthru carbs
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building a brpv setup using hat stud for reference on blowthru carbs

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Default building a brpv setup using hat stud for reference on blowthru carbs

    I keep gtn pm's about a post i made modding my qft carb to use hat stud for the signal to the powervalve.barely have 3g connection at home so if someone is interested in me goin thru the motion of showing peeps how to do it yourself for under a buck gimme a pm and ill take my carb apart tmrw , email ya the pix to post here then ill explain it.pretty simple to do and works awesome.this is how c&s boost references their blowthru carbs using the hat stud for the signal.as i said ill glady explain and send pix but whoever needs to post em here.ill email the pix before noon tmrw.plenty of posts on how to make a reverse brpv but i never found anything on net to explain how c&s does it but wasnt to hard to figure out with my carb apart..

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    Senior Member Lildave's Avatar
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    If you email or text em to me, I will post them for everybody to see

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lildave View Post
    If you email or text em to me, I will post them for everybody to see
    Thanx bud pm me your email.ive tried explaining it but pics speak a thousand words sometimes

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    Senior Member 74Bonneville's Avatar
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    I don't know that I'll do it, however I'm very interested in seeing the process and understanding why it's done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 74Bonneville View Post
    I don't know that I'll do it, however I'm very interested in seeing the process and understanding why it's done.
    Why is cuz some blowthru carbs are still referenced under the carb like any other carb.my qft actually had a pv blowout protector in the throttle plate wtf? It wld enrichen for boost at 2hg instead of actually in boost.caused more fuel usage in cruise and gave me no choice but cruise fat if i was hookn ass from one side of lake to another.sure cleaned up my cruise.i built two pv's , 1 opens at 1lbs the other at 2lbs using a 2.5 and 4.5 standard pv.

    with the standard way of signaling from under carb sometimes itd make a nice 11.4-11.5 the way i have to leave to keep pump fom blowng out.other times if i just stabbed it during cruise the pv wldnt open till way later than i wanted.was jus too inconsistent for me so i solved the problem changing where it got signal and how the pv loaded.easy peasy
    Last edited by IMPATIENT 1; 08-17-2013 at 07:35 AM.

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    Senior Member Lildave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lildave View Post
    Emailed ya the pix dave thanx bud!

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Was looking forward to this thread. If we're just waiting on pics, I'll post 'em.

    PM'd e-mail address.

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    Pix r on their way to ya seth.pretty self explanatory.the hole i drilled in the pv cavity passes in between the frt barrels into that center cavity which my throttle plate blocks off.then of course i drilled thru the stud boss down into that center cavity..had my uncle put me some allthread in his lathe and hollow it out.hole in stud faces incoming flow.c&s says as close to top of hat as possible.i run mine about an inch below top of hat and it opens nicely.you have to block however ur carb was gtn pv signal from below carb.on my qft i just plugged the hole in the cavity, its the lower hole with a set screw in it, easiest way i cld block it.holley guys jus jb weld theirs shut in the cavity.different method same outcome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    Pix r on their way to ya seth.pretty self explanatory.the hole i drilled in the pv cavity passes in between the frt barrels into that center cavity which my throttle plate blocks off.then of course i drilled thru the stud boss down into that center cavity..had my uncle put me some allthread in his lathe and hollow it out.hole in stud faces incoming flow.c&s says as close to top of hat as possible.i run mine about an inch below top of hat and it opens nicely.you have to block however ur carb was gtn pv signal from below carb.on my qft i just plugged the hole in the cavity, its the lower hole with a set screw in it, easiest way i cld block it.holley guys jus jb weld theirs shut in the cavity.different method same outcome.
    Nothing you can't do with a manifold referenced carb and run the line to the hat. C&S and Morrison say how the opening in the stud is orientated to the airflow has a huge part in how the PV functions.
    The hollow stud deal is stealthier and cleaner.

    So are you using a standard PV that is referenced from the hat, or are you using a 'PRESSURE" activated, "reverse" spring PV. Did make the pressure PVs, or just buy C&S PVs?



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    Yeah stud hole position matters like you said but im havn no issue being alil further down.seth is gna post the pix.i used a 1/2 copper cap from hardware store for spring retainer.jet position on holley plates r different and require a 3/4 copper cap to make the distance to the jets.made a holley retainer for uncle bills csu carb.yep reversed pv spring setup.make something to hold pintle shaft so it doesnt spin and rip diaphram, i used small screws into the slots on a small vise.then reverse spring seat on pv.a standard 2.5 pv reverse gets me open at 1lb,4.5 pv reverse at 2lbs.it doesnt go full in, begins around .7 enrichment and fully opens at 6lbs boost for full afr drop of 1.2 with a .108 hole behind pv in plate(say 84ish jet size behind pv). Works great and only cost me @ a buck to do.bill had trouble hollowing out ss allthread cuz drill bits cldnt evacuate what it was drillin loose.had to use regular allthread.

    i had so many pv's around i made a few n jus used a tiny bit of jb weld to keep the spring onto the reversed spring seat.makes it eaiser to change on the water plus keeps spring square when compressed against copper cap retainer..i idle at 14 cruise at 13 ,11.8 up till around 5-6lbs then down to 11.5 (secondaries rich)meth comes on at 8lbs and takes it to 10.8-10.9. Jettn secondaries down to lean that out to 11.2.runs crazy hard on 93 n 90/10 meth mix.its fat yes but methanol fat so gta lean out the 93 alil.cant tell any difference in afr between a higflow pv or standard of same size n reversed.hf pv is alil longer so its spring gets compressed more reversed therefore opens alil later tho.only diff i can see.

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    Btw if anyone does this check to make sure float doesnt hang on your homemade pv spring retainers.luckily i have no clearence issue but playn with a holley with brass float it wld hang.blowthru carbs use solid nitryl floats so u can jus grind alil off to clear retainer then jus wipe a thin layer of jb weld on it to seal it smooth again.that seems to be a common practice deals with holley carb modding.check float clearence.at this point pretty sure i can take a standard 4150 holley and convert it to bt useage with what ive learned.

    after playin with csu standard bt carbs and qfts i know i can do better than the way they work.c&s got it right using the stud imo so i went that direction nervous as hell drillin on a high buck carb.real nervous drillin the hole between the frt barrels connecting pv cavity to center cavity.use a drill press and small bit for pilot hole...my qft hybrid works as nice as the 1700buck c&s we had on the tt496, wont support as much hp but shld be good to 1300hp or so from a single 750 before needing dual needle in seat bowls.qft offers those now pretty cheap n nice too.
    Gna start building some gt45 boosted 4.3 v6's for my twins soon and jus gna use some 500cfm 2barrels and convert them to support 10lbs.shld be mean lil engines, they want 69-70 swb trucks to put em in bt stuff is fun after gtn a handle on how to make the carb do what ya wanna.

    can side tap the carb and use fuel pressure to push open pv at a preset boost level too.a fuel solenoid from a nos kit and hobbs switch to control it wld give nice control to pv.fuel pressure is always 7psi higjer than the boost pressure in the bowls the crutch system jus uses a air pump n hobbs switch to push pv open with 40psi.guys r jus gutn those cheap walmart tire inflators that plug into ur cig lighter for the pump.i saw one at walmart for 23bucks, hobbs switch thats nice is 25bucks.50bucks and have awesome pv enrichment control.many ways to do it jus gta chose whats best for your application.stud method is jus simple nothing to fail other than pv diaghram if ya jack it up during spring flip task.

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    Pitot tube force fed bowl vents? Nice. Clean.


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