Bearing Babbitt Material?
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Bearing Babbitt Material?

  1. #1
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Default Bearing Babbitt Material?

    Not much but...
    This was after a firm finger swip where oil puddles in the head, near the drain hole >BBC.

    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    I can't tell by the photo. How large is that piece? Is it malleable(soft and bendable)? Not magnetic, correct?

    Did you drain the oil yet and/or cut the filter open?

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by obnoxious001 View Post
    I can't tell by the photo. How large is that piece? Is it malleable(soft and bendable)? Not magnetic, correct?

    Did you drain the oil yet and/or cut the filter open?
    Specks are way too small to even think about bending...I'm talking micro!
    I'll have to swirl a magnet in the oil to see if anything sticks to it but...you can't see anything in the oil (looks clean).
    The three large dots are from the reflection of the sun...I was trying to get the micro specks of glitter to show in the pics, not easy to do.
    That may have been a 1" dab of oil on the paper and again I had to press firm with my finger on the head to pick up the particles (not glitter size) but so small they would fit in a finger print groove. Almost like dust particle size here and there but not enough to change the color of the oil like if a cam went bad. I know >(that made my oil silver!)
    I'll cut the filter open tomorrow and look deep inside the pleats.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    ok, the way you wrote it, I thought the entire shape was a piece of metal. Pretty hard to tell from that photo what you have going on.

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    steelcomp was here
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    Are you running alum heads?
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Are you running alum heads?
    049 Iron Heads w/aluminum Crowler rocker arms.
    Even though some 5 years old, not many hours on this engine and I do understand any 'new' engine will make some fine break-in particulate metal.
    If I recall correctly I built it with .003 in the mains and .0025 in the rods.

    *Oil pressure is strong at 70/75 but with this 20/50 I have in it this season (usually I run straight 50W VR1) I notice during at extended run a 3500/4000 rpm, and I then punch it up to 5300, oil pressure drops some 10 lbs. I don't recall that never happening with the straight 50wt.
    10 Qt oil pan but I only run 8-9 qts w/the pick up welded in.
    Don't have a oil temp gauge, no oil cooler.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    gn7
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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    hammer, is it possible that its left over material from a previous failure? sometimes its a bitch to get everything outta the valvetrain.

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Bronze distributor gear on a roller cam?
    Flat tappet, iron gear
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    Almost like dust particle size here and there but not enough to change the color of the oil like if a cam went bad. I know >(that made my oil silver!)
    if this is the same motor, and those specks are magnetic, you need to change your oil NOW! It is almost impossible to get all of that crap out of a motor(even if you tear it down) and is hard as diamonds.



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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    hammer, is it possible that its left over material from a previous failure? sometimes its a bitch to get everything outta the valvetrain.
    Few years back(last rebuild) I did have a cam lobe go down in 20 minutes...loaded the oil with silver, you could easily see it.
    When the block was empty I did pull 'all' the oil galley plugs and bottle brush the block clean with hot soapy water several times. Could some still be floating around, maybe.
    What brought rise to my attention was the oil pressure dropped with the 20/50 when I stomped the pedal...a real eye opener.
    Some friends thought it was due to the oil being over filled and foaming, not so. Some others thought it was the 20/50 breaking down > I hope so.
    Again, no oil cooler and I don't recall that happening with the straight 50 wt.
    Engine sounds great, no odd noises etc.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

  14. #12
    steelcomp was here
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    Is this a blower engine? If not, why so heavy on the oil? Why did you change oils?
    Particles will find their way into crevices and little potholes and settle out of the oil. They may have been there for a long time, and be a result of some of the first runs and just be some residual crap in the engine. It happens. Hopefully the filter picks up most of this stuff before it gets recycled through the engine. Best thnig to do is cut open the filter and inspect. You can also send the oil in for analysis.
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    I run a filtermag and cut the filters open frequently....scary. The guy who owned before me never got all the oil out on changes, had a lot of crud accumulated on the bottom. I put in a gallon of deisel and pulled it around the hood for a while and pumped it out, will freshin the motor this winter. Hope it makes it that long, oil pressure is good.

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    All great feedback above and I thank you...
    To answer a few other questions...no blower, N/A 468 10.50:1
    Why did I run 50wt? Just what I've heard was the thing to do in marine(Bob Teaque likes it) and old school Hot Rods since I was a teenager back in the early 70's. Also when running 50wt I noticed the oil held better pressure after a extended long run. Does that mean moving parts had a better cushion of oil when very hot 'AND' oil clung better to the parts when sitting for a week of not running >I always thought so.

    I drained almost 8 quarts from a 10 qt pan so it was not over filled, the 20/50 was hot and I then hacked open the filter.

    To my surprise the oil draining out of the pan was 100% free of any debris. I took several samples and checked under direct sun light and saw nothing but clean oil free of any particulate!

    The filter pleats were also very-very clean and free of any debris. The few specks seen in the pics below are actually specks of white paint from the filter being hacked open.

    Now...at the bottom of the filter cup the concentrated oil did have a very slight dusting of micro fine particle. I did swirl a magnet around it and it appeared not much of anything at all would stick.

    Could this just be left over debris from my cam failure several years back...could be. Could it simply be new engine break in debris from a low hour rebuild...could be.
    I do change the oil ever season and can't say I've seen anything scary in the oil.

    BUT again...what raises my concern, why did the oil pressure drop some 10-15 lbs when I punched it after an extended run, did the 20/50 simply break down, was it foaming? It didn't do it again when I let the oil cool for several minutes.


    Few white specks are paint...!

    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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