Best option for a forged rotating assembly HELP!!!!!
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Best option for a forged rotating assembly HELP!!!!!

  1. #1
    BUN
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    Default Best option for a forged rotating assembly HELP!!!!!

    Going to spend this winter rebuilding my 496 mag ho, but I want to put in new high strength components. I already have a Raylar kit on the top end with new cam, intake, and aluminum heads, looking for my best options for a forged rotating assembly. Raylar has one for about 2700 bucks that contains a new forged crank, pistons, rings and connecting rods. I have a few buddies that run scat cranks and rods and like them, just looking for more opinions on what works well and is reliable, also cost efficient. 2700 from Raylar doesn't sound like a bad deal, but if there is a better option I would like to know that too. With Raylar, I would be boring out .30 over, which I am told is fine on a 496. Looking to make 600-650 hp.

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    cncmotorsports.com talk.to.clint or chris bout 2200 to your door with scat forged crank h beams and je pistons and rings along with clevites or king bearings.shows up at your door balanced with a sheet generally couple wks aftr u order from them.whoever does their balance.work knows their shit too..for the 2700 the other company is asking wld get ya a callies crank upgrade too but sounds like a scat will do ya.we ve bought bout 6 rotating assemblies from cnc over the past decade.always stand up guys, they keep ur balance info on record so if u hurt something they can send a new part to ya same weight.we hurt a eagle crank n a big power twin turbo 496 called chris and had a callies compstar crank balanced to our previous specs sitn on the porch two wks later or less.thats nice

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    steelcomp was here
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    We have rotating assemblies. PM sent.
    Last edited by scott foxwell; 09-07-2013 at 07:01 AM.
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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Just be careful if you buy a forged kit elsewhere that it has provisions for the factory reluctor wheel on the back of the crank in the seal area. The factory cranks as well as the Raylar forged cranks (which are a Kellog US forging) have provisions for the reluctor, 2 pieces which has to be clocked correctly and installed in the proper direction. The seal area is slightly wider than a standard 1pc seal crank, it has a small flange that the reluctor presses against, and has a grooved keyway in the flanged area.

    I do know the Raylar kits are a Kellog forging crankshaft which is the same as factory stroke (111mm), Scat 6.700 rods w/ARP2000 bolts, Federal Mogul bi-metal bearings, Mahle pistons and rings.

    Now... if you are not using the Merc efi or factory ignition... then no big deal.

    Actually... Schneider also has a couple of grinds that I have used on this engine with that work quite well with the BP600cylinder head package that work great. They worked with Raylar early on and strictly due to costs (which seems to be the trend these days)... Raylar went with Cam Motion to grind their production shelf grinds. But even with the Raylar cam... 600+ hp is not a problem.
    The Bostick®

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    BUN
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    Default Paging GN-7 and Six-Oh-Nine!!!

    Six-oh-nine and GN-7,
    i need an opinion here! With a factory 496 mag ho, with the Raylar kit on the top end( heads, cam, intake, and stainless rockers) , and knowing that I have to rebuild the lower end, what would you do? I am looking at a 10k budget, would like to make 600 hp or better. I can run the Raylar lower end and bore out the block, or buy new parts somewhere else. If it was your money, what would you do? It's running in a 28' Nordic heat, roughly 6000lbs loaded, at an altitude of 2300 ft in coeur Dalene Idaho, with a bravo XR upper and lower. Also, would it be possible to run a good setup that makes good power and big HP but also be able to add a blower or whipple at a later date, or possibly before I run it this season? Don't know if I can afford the blower as of now, but it would be great to have the power plant that I could bolt it on to later. Everyone seems to have their preference on pistons, rods, and cranks, but I am a pleasure boater, not a racer. Although I seem to spend a lot of time at WOT!!! Current setup has a rev limiter of 5800 and at this altitude haven't gotten better than 4700 with a 26P 4 blade. Raylar claims that the motor should be at 525 hp now, and I only hit 63 mph up here, 71 at lake mead. Hoping to grab some more mph with this build too. 70 would be nice. Thanks for the help!

    BTW, this will all be on a EFI system, which I believe is merc.
    Last edited by BUN; 09-22-2013 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Adding title

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    BUN-
    I am doing almost the exact same thing this winter - only I'm starting with a stock engine. I have been researching pieces and parts for about a month now and come up with a few options for forged stroker rotating assemblies. MK Hammer has a premium Scat custom kit that is pricey (IMO) at $5500 but I guess it's the best 496 bottom end money can buy. He has another (less stout) Dart package that is $4500.

    I called Scat to get more info on their crank and it is a total custom piece built to MK Hammers specs. Only available thru him. The Dart crank is a Eagle item machined at a Dart and available thru Dart retailers.

    I've spoken with Clint at cncmotorsports and they have nothing for the 8.1 496 engines. I have also spoken to Kellogg Crank and they said to call PSI Engines who said they do not have anything for the 8.1 496's either. The guy at PSI that I spoke to (didn't get his name) said the forged stroker cranks Raylar now uses are from Dart.

    Regardless, it seems you have to state "8.1 liter 496" over and over when talking to people -otherwise they start looking up parts for bored and stroked 454 big blocks.

    I had had a good conversation with Larry at Raylar yesterday about a stage 2 kit with his forged rotating ass'y but I didn't get into brand/mfg specifics on the crank/rod/piston components. How you liking your Raylar top end kit? How many hours you have on it?
    Last edited by 25 CITATON; 10-02-2013 at 08:53 PM.

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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUN View Post
    Six-oh-nine and GN-7,
    i need an opinion here! With a factory 496 mag ho, with the Raylar kit on the top end( heads, cam, intake, and stainless rockers) , and knowing that I have to rebuild the lower end, what would you do? I am looking at a 10k budget, would like to make 600 hp or better. I can run the Raylar lower end and bore out the block, or buy new parts somewhere else. If it was your money, what would you do? It's running in a 28' Nordic heat, roughly 6000lbs loaded, at an altitude of 2300 ft in coeur Dalene Idaho, with a bravo XR upper and lower. Also, would it be possible to run a good setup that makes good power and big HP but also be able to add a blower or whipple at a later date, or possibly before I run it this season? Don't know if I can afford the blower as of now, but it would be great to have the power plant that I could bolt it on to later. Everyone seems to have their preference on pistons, rods, and cranks, but I am a pleasure boater, not a racer. Although I seem to spend a lot of time at WOT!!! Current setup has a rev limiter of 5800 and at this altitude haven't gotten better than 4700 with a 26P 4 blade. Raylar claims that the motor should be at 525 hp now, and I only hit 63 mph up here, 71 at lake mead. Hoping to grab some more mph with this build too. 70 would be nice. Thanks for the help!

    BTW, this will all be on a EFI system, which I believe is merc.
    I'd say the only thing your shy from the 600 kit is the cam, intake and rotating assembly... which is not a stroker... just forged. The 600 kit does actually put out a little bit over 600 hp around 5700rpm.
    The Bostick®

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