Water and oil milkshake.
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Water and oil milkshake.

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    Senior Member schiada flatty's Avatar
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    Default Water and oil milkshake.

    Woke up this morning pulled the dipstick and the oils milky. I changed it Friday night and only ran it during the day sat. It would hardly rev over 5200 where it usually spins 6500 easy. I figured it could be a head gasket so I should comp test it.

    I pulled the plugs and number 5 had a touch of rust on it. I then cranked it over and a ton of water sprayed out. I then tested the comp with the comp guage and it came right up to 200 which the rest were and only came down to 190 after at least 5 min. I figured it would bleed off right away if it was a head gasket/ cracked head or cylinder.

    Has anyone ever had anything like this happen. I noticed that my flow on my water pump was not as good flow as usuall and was really steaming so I kept her on plane to force feed the block and the temp never got over 210 and 180 most of the time. Oh and I run my headers dry no water.
    At $100/ hp plus injection oil it's just to expensive to go that slow!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member jimclauss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schiada flatty View Post
    Woke up this morning pulled the dipstick and the oils milky. I changed it Friday night and only ran it during the day sat. It would hardly rev over 5200 where it usually spins 6500 easy. I figured it could be a head gasket so I should comp test it.

    I pulled the plugs and number 5 had a touch of rust on it. I then cranked it over and a ton of water sprayed out. I then tested the comp with the comp guage and it came right up to 200 which the rest were and only came down to 190 after at least 5 min. I figured it would bleed off right away if it was a head gasket/ cracked head or cylinder.

    Has anyone ever had anything like this happen. I noticed that my flow on my water pump was not as good flow as usuall and was really steaming so I kept her on plane to force feed the block and the temp never got over 210 and 180 most of the time. Oh and I run my headers dry no water.
    use a leak down tester

  4. #3
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by schiada flatty View Post
    Woke up this morning pulled the dipstick and the oils milky. I changed it Friday night and only ran it during the day sat. It would hardly rev over 5200 where it usually spins 6500 easy. I figured it could be a head gasket so I should comp test it.

    I pulled the plugs and number 5 had a touch of rust on it. I then cranked it over and a ton of water sprayed out. I then tested the comp with the comp guage and it came right up to 200 which the rest were and only came down to 190 after at least 5 min. I figured it would bleed off right away if it was a head gasket/ cracked head or cylinder.

    Has anyone ever had anything like this happen. I noticed that my flow on my water pump was not as good flow as usuall and was really steaming so I kept her on plane to force feed the block and the temp never got over 210 and 180 most of the time. Oh and I run my headers dry no water.
    What kind of compression tester are you using. Compression testers don't measure cylinder bleed. They are tattle tales and show the highest pressure the cylinder made while cranking. No cylinder can HOLD 200 psi for 5 mintues. If you left a compression tester hooked to the cylinder for 5 minutes and it held fell to 190. it was the gauge that was leaking, not the cylinder. The cylinder was down to zero or very near it long before that.



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    Senior Member schiada flatty's Avatar
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    It was a $25 dollar el cheapo comp tester I bought. I thought it was wierd cause last time i used a different one I only got 160psi as the high on most cylinders which seems more normal. I run on pump gas. I'm going to borrow a leak down tester from a buddy tonight and see what's up.
    At $100/ hp plus injection oil it's just to expensive to go that slow!

  7. #5
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Back off the rockers on 5 and jus shop air charge that cylinder.if its gotta leak to a coolant passage youll know it quik.if it does heads have to come off anyway just make sure to rotate engine when head is off so you can see more of the cylinder and make sure there is no crack down it.even if you see a bad spot of the headgasket rotate engine check cylinder for cracks.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclauss View Post
    use a leak down tester
    DITTO!!!!! Also what engine?? If it's #5 on a ford it could be an intake leak that they are famous for!

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    Senior Member schiada flatty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    DITTO!!!!! Also what engine?? If it's #5 on a ford it could be an intake leak that they are famous for!
    its a Chevy 427 with 990 heads. I heard there prone to cracking.
    At $100/ hp plus injection oil it's just to expensive to go that slow!

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    Are you running wet headers?

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    Senior Member jimclauss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schiada flatty View Post
    its a Chevy 427 with 990 heads. I heard there prone to cracking.
    not true

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclauss View Post
    not true
    More like they are damn near bomb proof. Not quite as tough as a Merlin, but a looooong ways from fragile.



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  13. #11
    Senior Member schiada flatty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    More like they are damn near bomb proof. Not quite as tough as a Merlin, but a looooong ways from fragile.
    Thats good then. I'm hoping its just a head gasket not the head or cylinder.
    At $100/ hp plus injection oil it's just to expensive to go that slow!

  14. #12
    Senior Member schiada flatty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckjohnson View Post
    Are you running wet headers?
    no running them dry.
    At $100/ hp plus injection oil it's just to expensive to go that slow!

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