Is this crank toast?
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Is this crank toast?

  1. #1
    The Great Humongous P-Money's Avatar
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    Default Is this crank toast?

    Crank I inherited when my old man passed away. Is it toast or can it be saved? I don't have a need for it, so if it could be saved, I'd have it cleaned up and then I'd ist it.

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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Have it wet mag'ed before doing anything else... and that will tell you whether you have a door stop, or something that you could sell to someone to consider having repaired... having it repaired would cost about enough that the cost to sell ratio wouldn't make it worth the effort.
    Last edited by six-oh-nine; 10-18-2013 at 11:36 AM.
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    I'm sure it's bent like a pretzel and even if it's not broke, it's changed the molecular structure so much I wouldn't trust it for a hard runner................. My 2-bits!!

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    99% of the time if it is blue it is done. The cost to repair it would be more then buying a new one.
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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spudpilot View Post
    I'm sure it's bent like a pretzel and even if it's not broke, it's changed the molecular structure so much I wouldn't trust it for a hard runner................. My 2-bits!!
    Even if it passes wet mag like 609 said, bet your ass it is bent.

    Quote Originally Posted by EVILFORCE View Post
    99% of the time if it is blue it is done. The cost to repair it would be more then buying a new one.
    Wonder how blue they get when they did welded strokers?
    Its nothing that can't be corrected with heat treat.
    If it was a Sonny Bryant or LAE billet, I would be fixing it. Maybe even a Lunati Pro or Crower I'd be considering seriously.
    Its a 750.00 Sledgehammer crankshaft. Sell it on E bay for what you can get.



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  8. #6
    The Great Humongous P-Money's Avatar
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    Maybe even a Lunati Pro or Crower I'd be considering seriously.
    Its a 750.00 Sledgehammer crankshaft. Sell it on E bay for what you can get.
    It is a Lunati Pro.

    Thanks for the feedback, I'll run it over to the local shop and have it checked out. Worse case, ends up on Ebay as GN7 suggested or on the curb for the scrapers.

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    I would have it checked out before I would condemn it! From what I see most of the heat is surface and with some attention could be a fraction of the cost of a replacement to repair. Just do your;e self a favor and have pro tell you first. MLAO M

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    This is an add on and maybe ignored but if that heat came up into the throws I would have a different opinion but the crank throws show no heat and therefore I believe that crank is a keeper. If you want to scrap it call me first and I will pay the shipping plus the 20.00 the scrapers will pay. M

  11. #9
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by P-Money View Post
    It is a Lunati Pro.

    Thanks for the feedback, I'll run it over to the local shop and have it checked out. Worse case, ends up on Ebay as GN7 suggested or on the curb for the scrapers.
    double checked and you are correct, BQ421KN Lunati Pro About 1600.00 for a new one. I would have a shop look at it. Like Ol Guy said, it may not be that deep, and a heat treat is not that expensive for a crank like that..



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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    This is an add on and maybe ignored but if that heat came up into the throws I would have a different opinion but the crank throws show no heat and therefore I believe that crank is a keeper. If you want to scrap it call me first and I will pay the shipping plus the 20.00 the scrapers will pay. M
    You mean its not in the throw cheeks, or not in the rod journals? Because both these are rod journals. It didn't "come up from" any
    where. That heat was generated in the throw.




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  13. #11
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    It seems we are using different terminology here! The mains show no heat just the rods! I would be more concerned of the related rods then the crank! This crankshaft shows heat only at the rod end of the throws and not crawling up the rod throws therefore I would definetly not condemn the crank. From what I see in the pictures is surface heat on the journals and nothing in the mains as as you state "cheaks". Sorry I have never heard them called that before. With that being said I really would not be so concerned about a bent crank--- without seeing the main bearings! I have always heard of crank throws but not cheeks! M

  14. #12
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    It seems we are using different terminology here! The mains show no heat just the rods! I would be more concerned of the related rods then the crank! This crankshaft shows heat only at the rod end of the throws and not crawling up the rod throws therefore I would definetly not condemn the crank. From what I see in the pictures is surface heat on the journals and nothing in the mains as as you state "cheaks". Sorry I have never heard them called that before. With that being said I really would not be so concerned about a bent crank--- without seeing the main bearings! I have always heard of crank throws but not cheeks! M
    I agree, the heat is very isolated, which is a good thing. Biggest threat is like Spud said, its still enough to bend the crank, but nothing that can't be remedied. Just don't watch them. Its not for the squeamish.



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    I had a journal that looked as bad as the top one....from my "fram fiasco" and it's back in the motor now. so is fram...lol

    That said...using anything less than the best in the bottom end of a boat motor is just asking for problems. I'd probably save that one for a street car build....worst case scenario you might be able to hear it if it goes away and shut it down before it gets excessively expensive.
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  16. #14
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoldHondaBoughtHondo View Post
    I had a journal that looked as bad as the top one....from my "fram fiasco" and it's back in the motor now. so is fram...lol
    .
    You are just the guy I need advice from.
    I lost 10 motors, all with Auto Zone 10/30 and Wally World Super Tech shorty filters. Any idea what the problem could be? Don't ask me to change because I am a cheap screw and would rather keep building engines. But I would like one to last at least until the oil needs changing. Thanks in advance.



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