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can get water temp up

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    Default can get water temp up

    first off..thanks for helping with the oil temp..installed a perma cool and temp is up where i want it...other part of the problem is the water temp...I cant get the engine up to temp...as a matter of fact..when i am idling around..it wont even get to 100 gedrees....after a run...it only gets to a little over 100 degrees..Heres my setup...is there something wrong with it..I have a crossover instead of a circulating pump....bypass from crossover up to t-stat housing....160 degree t-stat with a 1/8" hole in it to keep some water circulating and help prevent hot spots in the block....Something is wrong though...is it the 1/8" bypass hole or what...do i need to run a t-stat with no hole in it..if so..what about hot spots in the block...i just cant get the water temp up...I can touch headers...heads...block and they are cool.....what is going on here..anyone have any suggestions...I would like to see some heat in the block or is it good the way it is..im sure someone can help on this issue also...Thanks

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Convincer View Post
    first off..thanks for helping with the oil temp..installed a perma cool and temp is up where i want it...other part of the problem is the water temp...I cant get the engine up to temp...as a matter of fact..when i am idling around..it wont even get to 100 gedrees....after a run...it only gets to a little over 100 degrees..Heres my setup...is there something wrong with it..I have a crossover instead of a circulating pump....bypass from crossover up to t-stat housing....160 degree t-stat with a 1/8" hole in it to keep some water circulating and help prevent hot spots in the block....Something is wrong though...is it the 1/8" bypass hole or what...do i need to run a t-stat with no hole in it..if so..what about hot spots in the block...i just cant get the water temp up...I can touch headers...heads...block and they are cool.....what is going on here..anyone have any suggestions...I would like to see some heat in the block or is it good the way it is..im sure someone can help on this issue also...Thanks


    Can you post a pic of the front of the engine? There seems to be some info missing....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    I agree, post a pic. Secondly, where are you taking the reading for the water temp?




    Darrell.
    San Diego.

    28ft Sportcat
    With Twins

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    will try to post a picture but not sure i know how to post one as i have never posted one on here before..Im taking the temp reading in the intake manifold..This is a B&M 250 SC and intake manifold..The t-stat housing mounts to the front of the intake instead of on the top front....

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    these pics are out of the boat but shows the way it is plumbed
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    heres another..hope they help
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  9. #7
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    I would have to say that this should work, there has to be a problem in the T-stat housing configuration or the T-stat itself, is there any kind of water pressure bypass or is it just the bypass on the crossover, there may be just too much water pressure, I have not played with these housings and don't know what configuration they use but have seen them with a spring that holds the stat in place and too much presure would push the stat off its base, I will look it up and get back tonite. I don't see a problem with the sensor placement either, how sure are you that is't running too cool? Have you actually touched the top of the intake manifold (or used an infrared thermometer) or stat housing with it running or warm?...BTW sweet steup!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    i know it SHOULD work but it doesnt...I have installed new gauge and sender and still reads the same..way below 100 degrees.tried new merc t-stats and still the same....I have used an infared heat gun and shot the intake and the t-stat housing while running down the river...wont get over 90 degree's....hell i can lay my hands right on the headers and they are cold to the touch.....no spring in system or anything....just the seawater pump pumping water to the bypass...and thats all..I dont know what to think..I called Teague today and talked to Adrian and he told me it was nothing to worry about..He said take the t-stat out..take the perma cool off and also take the bypass hose off from the crossover to the t-stat housing..They said they dont believe in t-stats in carbed motor and NO carbed engine they build will have a t-stat in it..They said that theyrun water temp at a MAX of 100 degrees and oil temp a MAX of 140 degrees..They said if i was to look at there boats that the oil temp and water temp would not even move off of cold until you made a long WOT pass and then it would show a little temp on the gauge...They say the colder the water and the coler the oil the better off i will be...NOW after reading this..are you as confused as i am...cold water and cold oil is what they say...what to do now......

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    Quote Originally Posted by Convincer View Post
    i know it SHOULD work but it doesnt...I have installed new gauge and sender and still reads the same..way below 100 degrees.tried new merc t-stats and still the same....I have used an infared heat gun and shot the intake and the t-stat housing while running down the river...wont get over 90 degree's....hell i can lay my hands right on the headers and they are cold to the touch.....no spring in system or anything....just the seawater pump pumping water to the bypass...and thats all..I dont know what to think..I called Teague today and talked to Adrian and he told me it was nothing to worry about..He said take the t-stat out..take the perma cool off and also take the bypass hose off from the crossover to the t-stat housing..They said they dont believe in t-stats in carbed motor and NO carbed engine they build will have a t-stat in it..They said that theyrun water temp at a MAX of 100 degrees and oil temp a MAX of 140 degrees..They said if i was to look at there boats that the oil temp and water temp would not even move off of cold until you made a long WOT pass and then it would show a little temp on the gauge...They say the colder the water and the coler the oil the better off i will be...NOW after reading this..are you as confused as i am...cold water and cold oil is what they say...what to do now......
    I am not going to say they are dead wrong, but I will go out on a limb and totally disagree with that cold of temps, the water temp can be run that cold providing the piston clearances are adequate for that. However I have to call BS on the oil temp, oil does not lube for crap when its below its recomended temp, that can be proven by calling the oil manufacturer, I like to see my oil temps around 190*, and that's even a little low according to some....

    I would be willing to bet thet there is something simple causing this issue, do you know if there is any posibility of water flow out of the engine other than the T-stat? Normall BBC's have a "bypass" hose on the intake man. to prevent pump cavitation, does this port go anywhere?

    I would be curious to see how the engine could run that cold with a T-stat, something doesn't add up....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    I just figured out your cooling issue, you are going to think I am full of ***** but hear me out.

    I think the water flow is going backwards on the right side (stbd) of the engine and correctly on the left, making the T-stat get bypassed..

    The crossover is flowing water into the block on the left (port), pushing against the pressure of the closed stat, the water flow on the right side (stbd.) is coming out of the block and out the bypass, I would be willing to bet that the right head is a few degrees warmer......

    I think you need to figure out a way to limit flow through the bypass....

    Do you have an installation guide on that piece (crossover)?

    GT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    yes i got an installation sheet with the crossover when i bought it a few years back from boostpower..i did modify it a little..I added the bypass to it..You got me thinking now!!!!The starboard side does run a little warmer than the port side.....I think your on to something......the bypass is supposed to be in the water inlet neck right at the top of the elbow..but for clearance issues it wouldnt fit so i ordered a crossover without a bypass and added it to the side where it currently is so it would clear the idler pulley bracket for the SC.....i am gonna have to have to change crossovers i bet and try to get the bypass in the correct location..If you go to CPPerformance's site and look at crossovers...#520-1520....the bypass is in the inlet elbow.....now that i think about what your saying...i believe that is what is happening..water is all going out the bypass hole....good job..i believe you figured it out....

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    I say try it and see if it works. I don't know your system, but is sounds like a possibility.
    But as a side note, I am calling total BS on the cold oil deal. That just does not make any sense to me. The oil has to be hot enough to steam out the condensation and other impurities. The way I run my gas engines is freeze the water and oil around 180-220 depending on how hard it is running. I build my engines for max power, and set them up for the coldest water temp I can possibly achieve.
    Let us know if the above idea works for you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Convincer View Post
    i know it SHOULD work but it doesnt...I have installed new gauge and sender and still reads the same..way below 100 degrees.tried new merc t-stats and still the same....I have used an infared heat gun and shot the intake and the t-stat housing while running down the river...wont get over 90 degree's....hell i can lay my hands right on the headers and they are cold to the touch.....no spring in system or anything....just the seawater pump pumping water to the bypass...and thats all..I dont know what to think..I called Teague today and talked to Adrian and he told me it was nothing to worry about..He said take the t-stat out..take the perma cool off and also take the bypass hose off from the crossover to the t-stat housing..They said they dont believe in t-stats in carbed motor and NO carbed engine they build will have a t-stat in it..They said that theyrun water temp at a MAX of 100 degrees and oil temp a MAX of 140 degrees..They said if i was to look at there boats that the oil temp and water temp would not even move off of cold until you made a long WOT pass and then it would show a little temp on the gauge...They say the colder the water and the coler the oil the better off i will be...NOW after reading this..are you as confused as i am...cold water and cold oil is what they say...what to do now......
    Do you mean crossover? Should go pump to crossover, or pump to headers (pre heat) to crossover and t-stat/bypass housing to overboard.

    Do you have a web link for the t-stat/bypass housing you're using? I'd like to check it out.

    My guess is the t-stat is junk... one of those that stays open in a fail condition.

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    I bought the crossover from boostpower a few years back and i dont see it on there site anymore...might have missed it though....Its not the t-stat..i have tried 3 new brand new ones and it is still the same....Typeo in the other post...seapump feeds the crossover....I think that i am bypassing the stat and dumping the water right out the exhaust as stated in above post....Will have to see if i can still get boat to the water this year as marina called today and is already packing boats away and mine is one of the first to go in...

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