Holy Shit! Would you let this guy rebuild your engine?
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Holy Shit! Would you let this guy rebuild your engine?

  1. #1
    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Default Holy Shit! Would you let this guy rebuild your engine?

    OMG! Worst engine asymbly practices i have ever seen!
    If you want a good laugh, watch this vidy.
    In the begening of the video, the guy said the block was back fresh from the machine shop. If that is the work his machine shop does, i would run,run far away!


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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    I had to turn it off when he tore the bearings out and tossed then onto the block...too painful.

    At least it's a sterile environment...as long as the wind don't blow....
    Last edited by thatguy; 02-22-2014 at 03:55 AM.
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    Village Idiot fc-Pilot's Avatar
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    This is a testament to the small block chevy. How many of them have been hacked together and ran fine for years. I know I have done my fair share of it. There are some practices in there that are a little different than my usual method.

    Paul

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    [QUOTE=holorinhal;2962850]OMG! Worst engine asymbly practices i have ever seen!

    OK, just to let us all know about your assembly protocol, spell out his misgivings, inquiring minds want to know, seriously

  7. #5
    Senior Member carreradude's Avatar
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    I gotta get me one of those niffty oiling cans!!!

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    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    A pro engine builder could scrutinize the video to pieces, but for a shade tree stock rebuild it wasn't all too bad. If the cam lasts a couple hundred miles without going flat, that short block will probably go another 100,000+mi without any issues.

    Farmers have been rebuilding machinery with oil and grease for 100's of years, there's just better stuff for the job available now. The simplest thing a shade tree mechanic can do to improve upon this particular assembly is to use appropriate fluids. Assembly lube on bearings, cam lube on lobes, ATF on cylinder walls/piston skirts/rings. And don't be stingy with the assembly lube on bearing surfaces, work it into the wrist pins, anywhere moving parts contact that doesn't have a specific lubricant.

    Maybe try to be a little more gentile when inserting the cam in the block. Don't want to damage the bearings by dragging a sharp lobe across them. Screw a long bolt in the end to give you a little leverage and something to hang on to while guiding it in as smooth as possible.

    Give the guy credit for checking bearing clearances and ring gap, but he forgot to check (or didn't show) the crank end play/thrust clearance. Assuming end play is within spec and if the cam survives break in he'll probably be a happy camper.

    Building a high performance engine that will spend much of it's life at high rpm is an entirely different story though. Had the guy touted about this engine being a 600+hp build... that certainly would have been laughable.

    Speaking of which. For a good laugh...

    These guys are making 600+hp. Egregious!



    To answer the question at hand... Would I let either of these guys rebuild my engine? No. I can hack my own, thank you very much.
    Last edited by Budweiser; 02-23-2014 at 11:59 AM.

  9. #7
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBehavior View Post

    OK, just to let us all know about your assembly protocol, spell out his misgivings, inquiring minds want to know, seriously
    The guys grip on engine assembly, and horoinhal's spelling are only over shadowed by your grip on HTML protocol. Seriously



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    Senior Member carreradude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    A pro engine builder could scrutinize the video to pieces, but for a shade tree stock rebuild it wasn't all too bad. If the cam lasts a couple hundred miles without going flat, that short block will probably go another 100,000+mi without any issues.

    Farmers have been rebuilding machinery with oil and grease for 100's of years, there's just better stuff for the job available now. The simplest thing a shade tree mechanic can do to improve upon this particular assembly is to use appropriate fluids. Assembly lube on bearings, cam lube on lobes, ATF on cylinder walls/piston skirts/rings. And don't be stingy with the assembly lube on bearing surfaces, work it into the wrist pins, anywhere moving parts contact that doesn't have a specific lubricant.

    Maybe try to be a little more gentile when inserting the cam in the block. Don't want to damage the bearings by dragging a sharp lobe across them. Screw a long bolt in the end to give you a little leverage and something to hang on to while guiding it in as smooth as possible.

    Give the guy credit for checking bearing clearances and ring gap, but he forgot to check (or didn't show) the crank end play/thrust clearance. Assuming end play is within spec and if the cam survives break in he'll probably be a happy camper.

    Building a high performance engine that will spend much of it's life at high rpm is an entirely different story though. Had the guy touted about this engine being a 600+hp build... that certainly would have been laughable.

    Speaking of which. For a good laugh...

    These guys are making 600+hp. Egregious!



    To answer the question at hand... Would I let either of these guys rebuild my engine? No. I can hack my own, thank you very much.

    There is another tool I need, a self torqueing air gun!!!!!

  11. #9
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    ATF on cylinder walls/piston skirts/rings.
    I guess the guys running magnetos are still considering that the hot setup.



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  12. #10
    Or Seth, either one Budweiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    I guess the guys running magnetos are still considering that the hot setup.
    Perhaps. You'll have to ask 'em. What are you using now-a-days? What's the latest stuff to use?

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    Senior Member Johnny2bad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holorinhal View Post
    OMG! Worst engine asymbly practices i have ever seen!
    I've seen engines rebuilt under worse conditions that live a long and happy life.

    Bad things happen to the best of them that are done right too.

    There is some irony here.......
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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budweiser View Post
    Perhaps. You'll have to ask 'em. What are you using now-a-days? What's the latest stuff to use?
    I know my grandfather used ATF on those funny flat heads things. Life was simpler then. Now I have no idea what ATF to use. Type F, Type G, Dextron, a or B, or Dextron II C, or Mercon? If its a Japanese engine, do use one of the fluids for a Toyota or the Nissan.
    I'm guessing if you are building a BBC, you don't use Type F or G. Its just all so confusing.



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    Senior Member ICECREAMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    I know my grandfather used ATF on those funny flat heads things. Life was simpler then. Now I have no idea what ATF to use. Type F, Type G, Dextron, a or B, or Dextron II C, or Mercon? If its a Japanese engine, do use one of the fluids for a Toyota or the Nissan.
    I'm guessing if you are building a BBC, you don't use Type F or G. Its just all so confusing.


    Just buy some of each and make a cocktail out of all of them. Then it doesn't matter what your building, you'd have to be using the proper stuff.....Right??

  16. #14
    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carreradude View Post
    There is another tool I need, a self torqueing air gun!!!!!

    At least he's going in the proper sequence.
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