502 build options
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502 build options

  1. #1
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Default 502 build options

    I'm still kicking around the idea of using my 502 gen 6 for my 21 Daytona jet.
    I don't like the idea of running my stock rods with press fit pins and pistons on a blower motor ,
    I want to keep the RPM's below 6300. looking for 850 HP

    here is what I have in mind please give your opinions.

    gen 6 block #10237300, gm steel 4.00 1053 crank part #10183723
    eagle H beam rods 6.385, SRP pistons 4.47 total seal TS1 rings
    a custom cam from Straub Technologies and AFR 345 heads
    Melling 10770 oil pump , an Armando oil pan,
    I already have ARP fasteners for the entire engine, a rollmaster timing set, a set of Morel solid roller lifters, a M3 Intercooled Procharger setup for 8PSI boost
    a Haltech EFI setup, the manifold is a single plane for port injection
    similar to a team G, ATI damper, IMCO powerflow exhaust.
    MSD 8560 dist, crane gold rockers.

    what would you recommend/change?
    will the block handle this HP?
    will the crank be able to be balanced with the new rods and pistons?
    Last edited by Outlaw; 10-17-2008 at 07:29 AM.
    #55

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  3. #2
    cfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    what would you recommend/change?
    will the block handle this HP?
    will the crank be able to be balanced with the new rods and pistons?
    Just my quick thoughts.......

    You don't need that large of cylinder head. 305's shoud be fine. 315's would be killer. Don't think you'd even need the 325's, however I would go no larger than the 325's. Iconel exhaust valves are a must.

    Camshaft is critical especially if your exhaust has normal wet tails. ie: reversion issues ! BTW: too big of a head can cause early reversion too. Good news is, that you don't need any 'killer' ie:'big' cam to make that power with an intercooled SC, 502 cubes, and good cyl heads. Is you exhaust normal wet ? Dry ? Or is the water introduced further back than norm? - if so where ?

    Making 250hp thru SC'ing with intercooled 8psi on top of a NA 600hp 502 is not out of the question. Should be very doable.

    Many offshore (I/O) SC'd 502's are in this area using near stock - but blueprinted and balanced - shortblocks of course with ARP bolts for rods and heads. 6200rpm is not too tough for the stock rotating assembly. If you want better rods and a supercharged specific piston (lower ring placement, thicker dome, etc) then that is fine for added insurance.

    Oil system should be concentrated on. Proper oil coolers, remote line size, block relief bypass valves changed, etc,etc.
    Last edited by cfm; 10-17-2008 at 04:01 AM.

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    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    yes Inconel valves. exhaust are IMCO's powerflows with S pipes so the water is
    indroduced futher down stream so reversion should not be a problem according to IMCO.

    oil system will be full flow(no By pass on engine block or in filter) oil cooler and dual filter housing. lines will be -12 or 5/8 stainless hardline.

    I will have to research the bypass on this gen 6 block, it is very different than
    a mark 4. if anybody has done this please chime in.

    edit, heads will be AFR2101-1 325's
    Last edited by Outlaw; 10-17-2008 at 01:58 PM.
    #55

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    Outlaw,
    I would run the OEM crank and get the 6.385" rods. You can use these down the road on a future build. Hang the SRP's on the rods and you will have a pretty solid bottom end.
    Chris Straub
    Straub Technologies

    3HP is an A$$ Whooping!!! JW

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    cfm
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    So you guys are thinking new rods and new pistons ? Plus needed machine work and balancing for these too. Dang, at that point your just 1k away from having a whole new reciprocating assembly.

    =================================

    I'll give you one big hook up on the oiling mods.
    Click here and absorb: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ghlight=bypass
    This thread has become the oil rigging bible for the Gen V/VI 502's.
    No need to thank me for the hook-up - thank Smitty (ArcticFriends on that board) for a job done awesome.

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    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfm View Post
    So you guys are thinking new rods and new pistons ? Plus needed machine work and balancing for these too. Dang, at that point your just 1k away from having a whole new reciprocating assembly.

    =================================

    I'll give you one big hook up on the oiling mods.
    Click here and absorb: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ghlight=bypass
    This thread has become the oil rigging bible for the Gen V/VI 502's.
    No need to thank me for the hook-up - thank Smitty (ArcticFriends on that board) for a job done awesome.
    I'll check it out,

    I found a deal on pistons I cant pass up, otherwise I would just keep stock rotating assy.

    so for way less than 1K I get new lower compression pistons, longer rod and floating pins, I'm thinking that is good insurance for bottom end.
    #55

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    Unless you already have the heads, you might consider a little more research/shopping before laying out the cash for AFRs. I have seen them flowed, and the exhaust ports did not live up to the big manufacturer claims in that case. Intakes were very close to spec. Direct comparison of AFR 357 vs Dart 355 on otherwise extremely similar motors did not perform as well. Both motors made similar torque but the AFR motor fell on its face above 5600 whereas the motor with Darts made more everywhere and kept pulling to ultimately make another 40 hp with a nice flat curve to 6300. Cams were nearly identical, solid rollers in the ~.720ish lift range and ~256/262 duration range. That's just one data point though, and I'm sure someone else will have a story where they made 40000 hp on pump gas with AFRs. I kinda look to pro-stock to see who's got the head technology and is making power - not sure if AFR is a player in that arena, but Dart and Brodix certainly are, among others. Not saying they're bad heads, just that others might work a little better.

    Another thing to consider for a blower motor is piston oilers. They're cheap insurance in my book. If I remember correctly, I think they were only another couple hundred bucks in machine work. They are very effective at keeping the pistons from self destructing under severe conditions. Diesels would never get away with the boost and power levels they run at without active piston cooling.

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