Stripped Hole Fix?
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Stripped Hole Fix?

  1. #1
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Question Stripped Hole Fix?

    He fellas, besides a Heli-Coil etc is there anything on the market or tricks out there to get this 5/16 x 18 bolt to bite and hold 13 lbs of torque?

    It's from my Vette transmission Valve-Body that threads into the aluminum case, I never even got to torque it, I just snugged it up and it pulled the threads out!

    I thought about inserting a strip or two of thin solder or thin wire to displace the metal and make it bite > like the old wood-screw trick.
    I would HATE to pull the valve body-off again, I just put it on!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Any threads left in the bottom of the hole? You might be able to run stud in it.
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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoldHondaBoughtHondo View Post
    Any threads left in the bottom of the hole? You might be able to run stud in it.
    Great idea...there are a few, and the hole is deeper than the bolt.
    If there was some hard core epoxy to go with a stud, that may do it!
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Time-cert

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wizbang View Post
    Time-cert
    I'm trying to NOT remove the valve body.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    Great idea...there are a few, and the hole is deeper than the bolt.
    If there was some hard core epoxy to go with a stud, that may do it!
    Bottom tap the hole, pick up a couple more threads and JB weld a stud in there. Let it sit for a day then run the nut on.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    I'm trying to NOT remove the valve body.
    Is the whole blind? How many threads do you think are below the bolt length? What the bolt size?



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  10. #8
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    I'm trying to NOT remove the valve body.
    Like the old saying goes, never enough time to do it right, but always time to do it over.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Like the old saying goes, never enough time to do it right, but always time to do it over.
    I think it takes less that 10 minutes to pull the valve body. He could have it out in the amount of time it takes to post on it.



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    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Bottom tap the hole, pick up a couple more threads and JB weld a stud in there. Let it sit for a day then run the nut on.
    That would be my suggestion, if the hole is blind. If it isn't, the JB weld will run out of the hole before it setup, into the trans. Unless he can plug the hole somehow.



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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Like the old saying goes, never enough time to do it right, but always time to do it over.
    hey Scott, I'm hoping to avoid pulling the valve body as I don't know if the two new gaskets will be resuable and I can't replace them without buying a paper kit.
    that's why if you read my first post I asked if there were any tricks to use or MAYBE something over the counter that would work vs a Time-cert or help coil.
    We're not talking head bolt torque here but 13 lbs.
    I'm not about doing things half assed, so no need to toss your jab in there for 'asking' if there's another option.

    GN...yes the 5/16 hole is blind.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    hey Scott, I'm hoping to avoid pulling the valve body as I don't know if the two new gaskets will be resuable and I can't replace them without buying a paper kit.
    that's why if you read my first post I asked if there were any tricks to use or MAYBE something over the counter that would work vs a Time-cert or help coil.
    We're not talking head bolt torque here but 13 lbs.
    I'm not about doing things half assed, so no need to toss your jab in there for 'asking' if there's another option.

    GN...yes the 5/16 hole is blind.
    I gave you as good a suggestion as I could, but I'm also giving you the best advice I can, having been there, done that enough times to know; buy another paper kit if you have to, take the thing apart and do it right or as sure as I'm typing this, you'll wish you had, in the end. Sorry if you don't like my answer, but it wasn't meant as a jab.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    gn7
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    If you use a stud, ignore the release part. And you don't need Permatex/Locktite kit. JB weld will work just as well. Clean both the stud and hole with iso alcohol.

    I would let set overnight.





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  16. #14
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    The bottom tap and stud idea worked fabulously...that hole was almost 5/16" deeper.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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