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blower oil

  1. #1
    steelcomp was here
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    Default blower oil

    BDS says not to use a synthetic, just a non detergent, non synthetic 90wt. I have some Valvoline 80w90 semi synthetic. Any input? Street deal, going to be driven seldom further than a few miles at a time, low boost, etc.
    Thanks in advance.
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    And what did BDS say to use..........






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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    I can answer this. The problem with synthetic gear oil is that the ball bearings will actually slide instead of roll. Synthetic oil is actually to slippery.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMOORE View Post
    And what did BDS say to use..........






    Darrell.

    first post:
    BDS says not to use a synthetic, just a non detergent, non synthetic 90wt.
    Thats what the tag on the bower says.
    My question is regarding a semi synthetic, but I'll just get some regular 90wt.
    Thanks
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    Craig has some stuff that we tested made by his buddy Cousimano, we like it, it has some EXTREME HD modifiers! Also have been using full synthetics in the roots blowers on boats and cars, street/strip and drag for 20+ years. Full synthetics make the gears quieter, but haven't seen any other differences other than a small amount of seal weeping on some older units. TIMINATOR
    MODESTY IS A CRUTCH FOR THE INCOMPETENT!

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    Smile Blower Oil

    Some of the synthetics are simply too thin. They do a great job at lubricating but get past the seals. Remember the front cover gets pressurized and can push the oil out if it is very thin. This will make a huge mess. I have seen this many times. A standard 80w-90w with a GL5 rating works pretty good.
    Another option would be Mercury Hi-Performance outdrive gear oil. It is a different color (Green) and won't be confused with anything else being used in the engine. This is of only useful if there are oil control issues going on. I personaly like the Mercury oil. If it can hang in an outdrive with all of those changing loads, it be just perfect for an old roots blower.

  9. #7
    B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike 396_Ways_To_Spit's Avatar
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    Good question Scott I was curious about the same thing and now I have my answers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boost Daddy View Post
    Some of the synthetics are simply too thin. They do a great job at lubricating but get past the seals. Remember the front cover gets pressurized and can push the oil out if it is very thin. This will make a huge mess. I have seen this many times. A standard 80w-90w with a GL5 rating works pretty good.
    Another option would be Mercury Hi-Performance outdrive gear oil. It is a different color (Green) and won't be confused with anything else being used in the engine. This is of only useful if there are oil control issues going on. I personaly like the Mercury oil. If it can hang in an outdrive with all of those changing loads, it be just perfect for an old roots blower.

    Great info Marv. Thanks for th info bud
    G H E T T O F O E L I F E
    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    They bout shit themselves when yelled in Messican, "No brakes no brakes."
    I showed them all the sticker on the side that reads "Driver Ricky Bobby" They just looked at me and nodded yes yes
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Some peeps just build it 1 part, 1 week, 1 paycheck at a time

  11. #9
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boost Daddy View Post
    Some of the synthetics are simply too thin. They do a great job at lubricating but get past the seals. Remember the front cover gets pressurized and can push the oil out if it is very thin. This will make a huge mess. I have seen this many times. A standard 80w-90w with a GL5 rating works pretty good.
    Another option would be Mercury Hi-Performance outdrive gear oil. It is a different color (Green) and won't be confused with anything else being used in the engine. This is of only useful if there are oil control issues going on. I personaly like the Mercury oil. If it can hang in an outdrive with all of those changing loads, it be just perfect for an old roots blower.
    Thanks...that's the kind of input I was looking for.
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    I have had good luck with the Hi-Performance outdrive gear oil. It costs a bit more, but has really worked well. I have had few problems with overheating since I started using this. You may talk to others, but this is what I would recommend. Using the right oil has also helped with trucks overheating which may lead to a
    Truck Accident. I hope this helps.
    Last edited by phil87108; 07-25-2011 at 06:28 AM.

  13. #11
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71hallett View Post
    I can answer this. The problem with synthetic gear oil is that the ball bearings will actually slide instead of roll. Synthetic oil is actually to slippery.
    Some old wives tales will not die not matter how many times they are stabbedThis same cock and bull story was tried with roller lifters years ago. If there isn't enough frition to roll the balls, then there isn't enough friction to make them wear, and then it just wouldn't matter. The TOO slippery fantasy is as old as synthetic oils themselves. Wonder if the jet aircraft industry knows the stuff is that slick. Any idea the number or roller bearing in some jet aircraft? Even if that was the problem, they could put friction modifiers in it to resolve the problem. Most readend assemblies have ball bearings. The only thing synthetic may be too slick for is some wet clutch material like motorcycles and posi units. And then, they do in fact blend in a friction modifier and dropout any and all moly. Most good gear lubes are rich in moly, and don't get along well with wet clutches.
    Quote Originally Posted by Boost Daddy View Post
    Some of the synthetics are simply too thin. They do a great job at lubricating but get past the seals. Remember the front cover gets pressurized and can push the oil out if it is very thin. This will make a huge mess. I have seen this many times. A standard 80w-90w with a GL5 rating works pretty good.
    Another option would be Mercury Hi-Performance outdrive gear oil. It is a different color (Green) and won't be confused with anything else being used in the engine. This is of only useful if there are oil control issues going on. I personaly like the Mercury oil. If it can hang in an outdrive with all of those changing loads, it be just perfect for an old roots blower.
    Steel,... Boost Daddy and Phil are dead on here. Mercury's HIGH PERFORMANCE gear oil is the best gear oil on planet earth. IMO. DO NOT however confuse the stuff for their PREMIUM gear oil which is far from the best.
    We carry one gear oil with us to the races, for the v drive, blower, what ever. It is also sold at places like WalMart as Quicksilver.
    The very operation of the blower seal is the same as the rear seal in a engine, or a trans tailshaft, or the crankshaft seals in a two stroke, and some hydraulic lifts. All use synthetics just fine. The more pressure put on the seal, the better it seals. Its a vacuum they don't take to well and blower can see a vacuum at closed throttle. But thats still not really the really BDS says that. They aren't the only ones saying it either. I asked Mark Williams who adamantly said the very same thing, and I asked Railsback(sp) at BDS. And they both said the same thing. There are good synthetic gear oil, and there is shit. Neither will recommend an oil by name. Conventional or synthetic. Mark Williams did go so far as to say they have had no adverse issues with Lucas sythetic and left it at that. But he had no problems with ANY quality conventional gear oil.
    There are some seriously bad gear synthetic gear oils out there, which leads me to believe the same can be said for synthetic motor oils, which I have always believed. But for obvious reasons, bad gear oil shows its self, specially in a high pressure application much sooner than bad motor oil.
    Casale has recommended Redline Heavy Shockproof for years. I hate the stuff and will never use it again. But Andy says it has never hurt a Casale box in all th years he has recommended it.
    I hate Redline because it will create strawberry whip cream at the slightest sight of water. Maybe not a problem in a blower, but in a v-drive, Redline and water = death.
    Bottom line, synthetic gears oil work bitchin, just has to be the RIGHT synthetic gear oil. IMO Mercury/Quicksilver is the very best.



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    Last edited by gn7; 07-15-2011 at 06:55 PM.

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    I have recently started using Synolec 9920 from Lubrication Engineers Inc. in the v-drives I rebuild. Lubrication Engineers, Inc. - Welcome.. Rex sells it!
    steveo143 AKA DiMarco 21 II



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    Redline high shock lightweight (the blue) zero issues.

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    gn7
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    I think you could use donkey cum in a blower and it work. Not exactly the most highly stressed set of gears in the world unless your Force or Schmacher. I know guys running 20/50 and 30 wt motor oil. Look at T5 and T56 trannies. They live fine with ATF. Not exactly a hypoid gear issue.



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