Electric Fuel Pump ?
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Electric Fuel Pump ?

  1. #1
    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Default Electric Fuel Pump ?

    I did a search and found that the Clay Smith mechanical is a great pump. But the 502 block I have isn't set up for that rout. So at the risk of stirring the pot, what types (brands) have you blower & turbo folks using that worked at WFO with no pressure drop.

    I've received a few Ideas from a few of you and appreciate the info. I like the Aeromotive stuff (p/n 11108) but at 425 and up, Ouch. It may be the way to go. Or maybe adding a second pump to add more pressure for more volume. I dunno. As you can see from that last quote.

    Where do you have the return lines connet to? the fuel tank or did anyone make a return tank? where did you place it? Before the regulator?

    Kyle gave me a great idea. I may roll with it but I still want to replace the Holley Black. I don't want a pressure loss to occur again. We are going to make a small qt tank between the pump and the regulator. I still have some -10 SS hose that I could feed fuel from the pump to the small tank to add fuel volume.

    Any pics you all could add of your set ups would be real helpful.
    Takin it home

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    The Great Humongous P-Money's Avatar
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    Aeromotive A1000 on my blown 496. 5 seasons on it, not a single issue. Bypass regulator on the end of a fuel log with the return line running to the inlet side of the pump.

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    Senior Member cheyenne580's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    I did a search and found that the Clay Smith mechanical is a great pump. But the 502 block I have isn't set up for that rout. So at the risk of stirring the pot, what types (brands) have you blower & turbo folks using that worked at WFO with no pressure drop.

    I've received a few Ideas from a few of you and appreciate the info. I like the Aeromotive stuff (p/n 11108) but at 425 and up, Ouch. It may be the way to go. Or maybe adding a second pump to add more pressure for more volume. I dunno. As you can see from that last quote.

    Where do you have the return lines connet to? the fuel tank or did anyone make a return tank? where did you place it? Before the regulator?

    Kyle gave me a great idea. I may roll with it but I still want to replace the Holley Black. I don't want a pressure loss to occur again. We are going to make a small qt tank between the pump and the regulator. I still have some -10 SS hose that I could feed fuel from the pump to the small tank to add fuel volume.

    Any pics you all could add of your set ups would be real helpful.

    I have only one question for you Jimmy.Why electric fuel pump?

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    TJS
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    Cave,
    I have been following your blower post and other ones as well. Klyle and your idea for a surge tank is a good idea. What are you running for pickups in the tanks or are they stock size. This may have been your restriction if they are stock. Here is mine when I made my pickups larger. I did this cause I am going EFI with an 8-71 this winter. I have to think of returns as well. Nice work by the way.
    T.J.




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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    The side is blocked off Jim. The sytem was lean but that's not what took the valve out. I'm concerned with the pressure drop that did occur. Carl gave me some good advice. As did Cruzer & Kyle.

    I was just asking those in here what there set up is. 1 Fuel pump, 2? In line or one to each carb? Returned to the pump or the tank.

    If the block was bored for the Mech I'd run the Clay Smith. But since I'm already set up for the Electric I'm gunna stick with it. I'm just not sure what way to go.
    Takin it home

  8. #6
    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    TJS I remember your creations from HB Are you returning to the tank? I hadn't though of the pickups from the tanks. Errrr another sideways movement.lol Since the tanks are glassed in that's gunna be a tough one TJS. I believe that's why Kyle mentioned the reserve tank. I'm going that route for volume. The hope is that the reservoir will store enough fuel to maintain the fuel pressure. Kyles thought is that the fuel is being sucked out quicker than the fuel is being replaced through the lines. So adding a quart of fuel before the Regulator may solve one issue. The Fuel pump is the easy problem. I can Buy that. The rez has to be made. But I have that covered too.
    Takin it home

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    CANT RE MEMBER FARMER JOHN's Avatar
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    Cave, You Could Also Run Two Pumps, One At Each Tank, As Close To The Tank As You Can, And Run Check Valves Too.
    You Can Run One Or The Other Or Both If Your Going To Hammer It, Where They Tee Together Run At Least A #8-#10, We Have Also Boost Referenced Regulaters By Drilling & Taping The Adjusting Stud

  10. #8
    Senior Member cruzer's Avatar
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    Cave

    Don't see how a reserve tank will help. You need to maintain pressure. Once the draw off the tank exceeds tha capacity of the fuel delivery system(the pumps) the pressure will drop off.... Also, this tank will need to be sealed with no cap. So, unless the tank is high enough above the carbs to develop enough head pressure, I don't see how it helps.

    Also, I forgot to mention a few things when we talked. Like, what kind of regulator are you going to run? Where are you going to mount the pump? What size line line for supply and return? Probably a few more things would come up during the conversation.... Call anytime.
    Cruzer
    21 Eliminator Daytona. Blown 540

  11. #9
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    Thats what I was thinking. If your tank lines can't keep up with the demand now, then the reserve tank will be pumped out faster than it's being filled and go dry.

    Have you thought about a belt driven pump?

    Tim

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    well, since the heavy hitters haven't stepped up to solve the problem, i'll drop my .02 cents in...we all know (at least we should!)(was covered in another thread) that electric pumps are "pushers" NOT "pullers", therefore, they dont work very well in suppying a great demand for fuel...the solution to the problem is to run a belt or cam driven fuel pump which is a puller...they are run on drag cars & work great in all configurations of induction (blown, inj, carbs etc)...u already have the 2V pulley on the bottom, so, all u need is the belt drive pump & belt...Kyle can make a bracket to mount it...u run -10 line to the pump & -10 line out to a Y with -8 line out to the regs (set at 8psi) & carbs

    this is all a mute point, if as TJS said, ur tubes in the tank are too small for adequate fuel delivery thru the lines...also...as Cruser said, a reserve tank is not gonna help the problem!

    IMO, running a blown gas motor is not that hard to do!...if i can do it, even a "cave" man can do it! lmao

    kick back & re-evaluate

    FastRat

  13. #11
    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Awe now the comedians are coming out. Thanks Ron. Drag cars run for less than 10 seconds. They hope. Would a pump like that work as a continuous duty pump?
    Takin it home

  14. #12
    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    I like the Aeromotive stuff (p/n 11108) but at 425 and up, Ouch
    Is your engine worth more than $425? I like P Money said would go A1000 I personaly like the A2000 but then your back to the return to tank thing.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    Awe now the comedians are coming out. Thanks Ron. Drag cars run for less than 10 seconds. They hope. Would a pump like that work as a continuous duty pump?
    i dont see why not...i ran a Enderle 80-A cam driven pump on my little 301" sbc, Enderle stack injection, street car with n/p...that was before they had belt drive set-up's...now u dont need the cam cover for the pump, so its alot easier

    ck this out: www.racingjunk.com...engine parts: fuel pumps/systems
    ad# 1410958...hell of a deal!
    ad# 1402991... great deal

    there are also some other good deals there

    FastRat

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    Senior Member VDRIVERACING's Avatar
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    Couldn't tell exactly, but are your tank supply openings 3/8" ID?

    The larger of the two pictured above looked like 3/4" (that's what I have on each tank, with a shut off valve on each I might add).

    The 3/4 ID line has about 4 times the cross section area, as the 3/8 line.

    I wont try to get into the friction loss, etc., etc., but if one was an overkill-everything-on-the-fuel-supply-side type (like we do everything), larger fittings are in order. Hard to imagine that as a negative.
    Last edited by VDRIVERACING; 12-28-2008 at 02:11 PM.

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