clevite p or h bearings?
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clevite p or h bearings?

  1. #1
    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    Default clevite p or h bearings?

    i ordered a 496 rotating assembly kit for my uncles mew mill.it is eagle crank with rods srp pistons,ect.

    the damn thing came with p series bearings.i used the h series on my ole mans 505 kit.the p series i thought were stock style replacement.thanks for any help.travis

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    BTC cardcarrying member sunkisst's Avatar
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    Default Arent you on your way to the East coast?

    Im guessin its next week...I posted lets have lunch on Chris Straub ...Next week I guess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbo View Post
    i ordered a 496 rotating assembly kit for my uncles mew mill.it is eagle crank with rods srp pistons,ect.

    the damn thing came with p series bearings.i used the h series on my ole mans 505 kit.the p series i thought were stock style replacement.thanks for any help.travis
    I run the coated H bearings, I think they are harder and are made more for indurance than the Ps.

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    Senior Member 78COLE's Avatar
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    Ever tried the King Allecular bearings? Ive used them on last two builds and had good luck. Havent heard much else about them though.

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    Senior Member MACHINEHEAD1's Avatar
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    The Ps just have more room at the parting line. When a stock rod tweakes at elevated rpm, the parting line area gets closer to the crank. H-bearings tend to have about 1-2 thou less room. P or H is OK on a aftermarket cap screw rod. Just dont try a H on a stock rod at elevated rpm or it may pinch the crank.

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by MACHINEHEAD1 View Post
    The Ps just have more room at the parting line. When a stock rod tweakes at elevated rpm, the parting line area gets closer to the crank. H-bearings tend to have about 1-2 thou less room. P or H is OK on a aftermarket cap screw rod. Just dont try a H on a stock rod at elevated rpm or it may pinch the crank.
    In my case and the wear pattern shown, maybe too much room!
    So, what about H in a stock 'reconditioned rod' w/after market bolts and a stock cast crank...still a no-no?
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    okay questions in order,lol!

    yes next week on going to get the boat

    yes i have used 3 sets of king bearings in the past good stuff.

    i thought the h-series was made more for aftermarket cranks that have a nice radius built in the crank by the weights???stock cranks dont have this on them.looks to me like the h-series is made for this radius are were the p -series in not???

    the rods are eagle I-beam with eagle crank.

    so anyone eslethanks for the responses so far.travis

  10. #8
    steelcomp was here
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    How much power are you planning to make? Is this a two bolt or four bolt main? What are you using for oil?
    If you need the radius clearance for the crank, the H's may be the way to go, but Machinehead's right about the shape of the bearing. If you're not going to be pounding on the rods with a lot of power or rpm, the H series may have more clearance at the parting lines than you need which just means more lost oil and less oil control in the bearing.
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    Senior Member 78COLE's Avatar
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    Great thread... didnt know that there were two types of clevites and what the specifics were on them. Might save a crankshaft one day.

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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    How much power are you planning to make? Is this a two bolt or four bolt main? What are you using for oil?
    If you need the radius clearance for the crank, the H's may be the way to go, but Machinehead's right about the shape of the bearing. If you're not going to be pounding on the rods with a lot of power or rpm, the H series may have more clearance at the parting lines than you need which just means more lost oil and less oil control in the bearing.
    okay steel.this is the new mill im building for my uncle.mobile 1 15-50
    496 bbc
    im gonna say maybe 600hp at most.rect.port iron heads,hyd roller by comp cams.
    10.1 compress.
    850 dp
    edelbrock rpm air gap.would use nice single plane but limited to space under the cover of a taylor lp
    im gonna say 5500 -5600 on a a-cut agressor impeller.

    i have put p-series on a eagle crank before and tore it apart after the season to look at things.where the radius was on the crank it had wore the hell outta the p-bearing.the h series didnt do this the next go around.?

    but if you say its okay to run them i will

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    steelcomp was here
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    Like I said before, you may not have a choice with the large raduis crank, and if you keep your clearances under control, the H's should be fine. The Eagle I beam rods aren't nearly as strong on the big end as the H beams, so if you're truely making 600hp, they will probably elongate a tad, and the H series are what you'll need. Don't run under .0025 on the rods with that oil. (IMO) If you want to use a 5/30, don't go over .0025, more like .0020. Same with the mains...I'd shoot for .0028-.0030, and not over .0035. With a lighter oil, not over .0030.
    Of course, someone else may disagree.
    Quote Originally Posted by hotbo View Post
    okay steel.this is the new mill im building for my uncle.mobile 1 15-50
    496 bbc
    im gonna say maybe 600hp at most.rect.port iron heads,hyd roller by comp cams.
    10.1 compress.
    850 dp
    edelbrock rpm air gap.would use nice single plane but limited to space under the cover of a taylor lp
    im gonna say 5500 -5600 on a a-cut agressor impeller.

    i have put p-series on a eagle crank before and tore it apart after the season to look at things.where the radius was on the crank it had wore the hell outta the p-bearing.the h series didnt do this the next go around.?

    but if you say its okay to run them i will
    Last edited by scott foxwell; 01-11-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    well steel i would like to say atleast 600hp.but may not be.

    good info and ill use it on the clearances

    i put them not knowing at the time when i built a buddys 496 bbc the p-series tore it apart b/c the bolts that held a screen in the oil pan came loose and had done alittle damange donw stairs that we didnt even know about at the time.where the bearing was riding on the radius it had eat alot of the babbot of the bearing the rest looked almost still knew,lol!!!thats when i thought wtf is going on looked said p bearing called a friend he said to run h-series so we did.thanks for the great info scott.travis

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    Member paradigm shift's Avatar
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    Been some good post and learning hear lately. I am not the expert but I have found you will need the extra clearance at the radius if you are running an Eagle crank. Or you can modify your P bearing to give the clearance. Sounds like you know all this already though.

    Here is some info from Mahle/Clevite site with the differences.
    http://www.engineparts.com/it_bearinginstall.asp

    Also a good thread that shows what they are talking about with eccentricity at parting lines. Look at post 41 & 48.
    http://www.performanceboats.com//sho...t=26154&page=2
    Last edited by paradigm shift; 01-10-2009 at 07:54 PM.

  16. #14
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    Default Radius

    Crank radius? I question this problem. The rods I use, even stockers, have a huge relief on the radius side. IF the crank has been ground with a dull cornered wheel you may have a bigger radius than you want, or need. Even grocery getters will have excessive wear on the edge of the bearing IF the crank has a large fillet radius. Another common cause with press pins is that the shop that pushed them together screwed up and put the reliefs on the inside, rod to rod, instead of relief to fillet. Any interference should be "felt" when the engine is turned after each rod is torqued. IMO, when properly indexed the radius would have to be huge to create a problem....Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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