boat fired with crank trigger
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boat fired with crank trigger

  1. #1
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    Default boat fired with crank trigger

    Got the crank trigger installed and fired the boat. I may need to get a start retard. It started fine both times i started it but one of the times it was like the battery was dead and it couldnt get past that stroke. It did, and immediatly fired but i have a feeling if my battery is anywhere close to not fully charged i'm going to have a problem.

    Boy timing the boat is nice, set the motor so the pointer was at 36*, lined the pickup up with magnet and i was within 2* (started at 38*). The motor sounds alot different when idling. Seamed alittle deeper sounding, more ruggid. What i though was weird is i found it alot easier to talk to people while it was idling. To me the boat sounded quieter at idle...

    Welp thats the last thing i'm going to do for now, i need to rip everything out since i only have 2 months to get ready for the NJBA season opener!

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    The warmer the engine is, the harder it is to crank withit locked out. A start retard will help and a high torque starter. I don't have a start retard on mine. I set mine up with the starter on a button and the ignition on a separate switch. That way I can spin the engine over then kick in the ignition. Fires right off every time.

    Tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by River Rat 005 View Post
    The warmer the engine is, the harder it is to crank withit locked out. A start retard will help and a high torque starter. I don't have a start retard on mine. I set mine up with the starter on a button and the ignition on a separate switch. That way I can spin the engine over then kick in the ignition. Fires right off every time.

    Tim
    My plan is to get ride of the key start and separate everything (fuel, ignition, bilge, start). Thanks for the start sequence though, will try that out and see how it works. If that does it then i wont need to waist the money on a start retard box.

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    Cantard 71hallett's Avatar
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    Since you saved the money on buyin dual pickups......

    A start botton and a toggle switch on the ignition fixes that. Roll and flip.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    It would be a balmy 85* in Steel's shop if he would move a little faster

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    Quote Originally Posted by 71hallett View Post
    Since you saved the money on buyin dual pickups......
    What are you talkin about!? I though buying two and retarding only half the motor was the alternative to a start retard box

    Hmm... You think if i only advanced the even side that the boat would always want to turn right?

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    I'm sure you already did this.... but I figured I better
    mention "Rotor Phasing"
    #55

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    Wet
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    How much compression are you running?

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    Senior Member Bubbletop409's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    I'm sure you already did this.... but I figured I better
    mention "Rotor Phasing"

    I had the kick back problem in my 540 Lumina Super Gas car. The rotor was originally phased at full advance. When your cranking at start up you only have what ever the inital timing is, so the rotor has passed the intended plug terminal and tends to fire the next cylinder much to early. Problem is even worse if you are forced to run a small diameter cap.

    Narrowing the rotor terminal to a slight point and phasing at mid advance will cure your problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    I'm sure you already did this.... but I figured I better
    mention "Rotor Phasing"
    I read about it, i just aligned my rotor and cap the best i could. The manual talks about drilling a hole in the cap and using a timing light to get it perfect. I'll probably attempt this, going to get a new rotor and cap anyway for next season.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wet Dream View Post
    How much compression are you running?
    10:1 ish.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubbletop409 View Post
    I had the kick back problem in my 540 Lumina Super Gas car. The rotor was originally phased at full advance. When your cranking at start up you only have what ever the inital timing is, so the rotor has passed the intended plug terminal and tends to fire the next cylinder much to early. Problem is even worse if you are forced to run a small diameter cap.

    Narrowing the rotor terminal to a slight point and phasing at mid advance will cure your problem.
    If the dist is locked out i shouldnt need to worry about any curve... right?

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    There is NO advance or curve with a crank trigger. To phase the rotor is simple. Line up the pick up and magnet for the #1 cylinder to fire. Now mark the dizzy housing where the #1 terminal is. Turn the dizzy til the mark lines up with the rotor. Lock down the dizzy. That simple.

    Tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by River Rat 005 View Post
    There is NO advance or curve with a crank trigger. To phase the rotor is simple. Line up the pick up and magnet for the #1 cylinder to fire. Now mark the dizzy housing where the #1 terminal is. Turn the dizzy til the mark lines up with the rotor. Lock down the dizzy. That simple.

    Tim
    Thats pretty much what i did, more of a line of sight. THis was just a test fire, when i get everything back in the boat with my new stuff i will do what you said and mark the dist.

  16. #14
    Senior Member VDRIVERACING's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by River Rat 005 View Post
    There is NO advance or curve with a crank trigger. To phase the rotor is simple. Line up the pick up and magnet for the #1 cylinder to fire. Now mark the dizzy housing where the #1 terminal is. Turn the dizzy til the mark lines up with the rotor. Lock down the dizzy. That simple.

    Tim
    If it's lined up like this, how does one set up the desired advance? Is that done when mounting the trigger? Forgive me, but the crank trigger is new to me, but sounds like the way to go.

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