Procomp heads
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Procomp heads

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    Senior Member LicktySplitJr's Avatar
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    Default Procomp heads

    Just wondering are there any issues with these heads? Building a budget motor for family jet and I can get a set complete for about 800-900 bucks new on ebay. I know they arent great for building a lot of horse power but what if you arent to worried about that?

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    Senior Member TwinTurbo540's Avatar
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    If you are not worried about building hp then why go with aluminum heads? I think they can be a decent head if you but them bare and have a good head shop set them up properly. I would never trust them to be right sold as complete!

    Travis

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    Senior Member LicktySplitJr's Avatar
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    Thats actually a good point as well. I have been searching and most heads setup cast iron are just as expensive and I would still have to have them checked to make sure they are setup correctly( piece of mind). So I just figured new vs used for essentially the same price and shed a little weight in the process.

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  6. #4
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwinTurbo540 View Post
    If you are not worried about building hp then why go with aluminum heads? I think they can be a decent head if you but them bare and have a good head shop set them up properly. I would never trust them to be right sold as complete!

    Travis
    That would be the only way to get a set of these heads. I wouldn't even do that...they're basically junk, but you get what you pay for. They'd be -OK- if you had the guide clearances checked (and most likely corrected), had the valve jobs checked (and most likely corrected) and had decent valves, springs and retainers installed properly. For a few bucks more, you can get a set of bare Canfields, do the same thing (I don't trust anyone's ready-assembled heads) and have a much better head for near the same cost.
    JMO
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    Senior Member TwinTurbo540's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    That would be the only way to get a set of these heads. I wouldn't even do that...they're basically junk, but you get what you pay for. They'd be -OK- if you had the guide clearances checked (and most likely corrected), had the valve jobs checked (and most likely corrected) and had decent valves, springs and retainers installed properly. For a few bucks more, you can get a set of bare Canfields, do the same thing (I don't trust anyone's ready-assembled heads) and have a much better head for near the same cost.
    JMO
    Great post steelcomp!!! I have been inside some nice expensive aluminum heads that were bought complete and the clearances were junk!! The only way to buy ANY head in my opnion is to but them bare and have them done right. I run a set of Canfields on my BBC and they were purchased complete and were not good to go! My head guy made some corrections on the seats and guides, new valves, springs and retainers. They are a Killer set of heads now but just be causious when buying any head complete if you choose to do so.

    Travis

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    Senior Member CK7684's Avatar
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    I got my edelbrock heads bare, have the valve guides n seats done, etc etc, so yea, whatever heads you get, have them checked and machined properly...

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    Senior Member VDRIVERACING's Avatar
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    I think junk may be an overstatement, but setting up heads on a production line is counterintuitive to the precision needed for a HP engine.

    I also subscribe to buying bare heads, and there are many excellent choices.

    Manufacturers tend to be good at providing raw components. Good engine builders tend to question everything (because they should, and as consumers we should EXPECT them to), measure incredibly small tolerences, and carefully assemble products they will hand deliver to their customer.

    You can expect good results by having your builder perform the necessary procedures to "blueprint" the heads and install components whose characteristics are consistent with your performance goals. Unless you are buying from a friend you trust, it's difficult to spend less than a couple grand and end up with something you'll be happy with.
    Last edited by VDRIVERACING; 02-07-2009 at 08:39 AM.

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    i've ran the 320cc procomp for 30hrs or so on my 505 before i sold the gullwing, and they're by far no edelbrock or rhs head, but they're still better than 990's and flowbenchs will tell ya the same i bought mine bare , did alil clean up work to em, had the machine shop hone the guides some, check seats, then i went to building em. i built a 13.5 to 1 505 on a 2stage of 450hp, and spanked ass last summer with it hindsight is 20/20 and i know i should've just held out and bought a bare set of rhs heads and made ALOTmore power, but i'm impatient bought what i could afford at the time and took alot of time to make them work. they're not a great head, but i do not think i could've made as much power with the badass/pro ported 990's i sold to buy the procomps i had the flow sheet on the 990's and i know what the procomps do, and the procomp is the better choice between the 2. ontop of all that, who doesn't wanna lose 80lbs of weight in their boat summer's still isn't close, save a bit more or buy a used nice set of rhs heads, you'll thank yourself later for not cheaping out like i did

    fyi, the only set of procomps that i have 1st hand knowledge of that fucked up, are a racer here in okla. that had em on a 505 in a gullwing also, he bought them "assembled" and bolted them on, that's partially his fault keeper broke and dropped a valve, bet the keeper was cracked or not installed correctly to begin with and that's the stuff a experienced gearhead wants to do himself, or at least i do.

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    steelcomp was here
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    Post up those flow numbers on the 320's and lets see....I've build a few sets of pretty nice 990's...
    Flow numbers are about menaingless in most cases, without other info along with them.
    What size valve? 3/8 or 11/32 stem? What size throat? What's the CSA? What's the port opening? What was the velocity? What size bore fixture was it flowed on? What were the valve jobs like? Were the heads flowed back to back on the same machine on the same day? Etc. etc...
    To add: throwing a big power adder at any head can cover up a ton of sins...turns any zero into a hero.
    You can't deny the weight savings, though.
    Just tryin to keep it real.
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    My ProComp heads have never had a problem. ProComp stud girdles don't fit ProComp heads without machine work. The pushrod guideplates that came with them didn't work correctly.
    Last edited by hotrod56cars; 02-07-2009 at 06:47 PM. Reason: more

  13. #11
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Post up those flow numbers on the 320's and lets see....I've build a few sets of pretty nice 990's...
    Flow numbers are about menaingless in most cases, without other info along with them.
    What size valve? 3/8 or 11/32 stem? What size throat? What's the CSA? What's the port opening? What was the velocity? What size bore fixture was it flowed on? What were the valve jobs like? Were the heads flowed back to back on the same machine on the same day? Etc. etc...
    To add: throwing a big power adder at any head can cover up a ton of sins...turns any zero into a hero.
    You can't deny the weight savings, though.
    Just tryin to keep it real.
    i let the flow sheet go with the 990's and its been 2yrs scott, kinda hard to remember things like that gary snow had the procomps flowed untouched, as assembled and they flowed over 320 at .700, and the 990's i had didn't even flow 300. i can look up who i sold the 990's to , track him down if you'd likehad 2.30's in both heads, and i know both sets were tested on 4.5bore with the lil exhaust pipes, but yes they were flowed many states apart. i didn't tell him to buy em, just that they're better than 990's. you need to remember , not everyone can work a set of 990's like yourself.

    i was spanking 555's that were probuilt and injesting just as much nitrous its balls out around here, not tuning for a bracket
    Last edited by IMPATIENT 1; 02-07-2009 at 06:53 PM.

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  14. #12
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56cars View Post
    My ProComp heads have never had a problem. ProComp stud girdles don't fit ProComp heads without machine work. The pushrod guideplates that came with them didn't work correctly.
    dart adjustable guide plates fix that, i bet you gotta set of standard bbc head procomp guides sent to ya

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    steelcomp was here
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    Well, you kind of proved my point. This isn't directed at you, but since you've provided the info, I'm going to use it to illustrate. The last pair of 990's I did had a 2.25" intake, and were certainly not "bad ass pro ported". They were what's typically called a super mod. Basic bowl blend, gasket match, and straighten the walls a little. Nothing major. They flowed 341 @ .700 and [email protected] .800. Now as I said before, those numbers by tehmselves are basically meaningless, but when you put them into context, with a smaller port and a smaller valve, it begins to have a little more significance. For a 320cc intake port with a 2.300 vlave to not flow much over 320, IMO it's a garbage port. It would have terrible port velocity and probably turbulent as hell. A Canfield 310cc as-cast intake with a 2.25 valve will flow 350+, as will most of the decent heads in that port size range.
    Just putting this out there on an information basis...FWIW.
    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    i let the flow sheet go with the 990's and its been 2yrs scott, kinda hard to remember things like that gary snow had the procomps flowed untouched, as assembled and they flowed over 320 at .700, and the 990's i had didn't even flow 300. i can look up who i sold the 990's to , track him down if you'd likehad 2.30's in both heads, and i know both sets were tested on 4.5bore with the lil exhaust pipes, but yes they were flowed many states apart. i didn't tell him to buy em, just that they're better than 990's. you need to remember , not everyone can work a set of 990's like yourself.

    i was spanking 555's that were probuilt and injesting just as much nitrous its balls out around here, not tuning for a bracket
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    you've seen the intake ports and the bowls, but you're honestly gonna say that head outta box flowing more than 320 is bad? we both know what those procomp intake ports look like compared to 990's i'd like to see what you could do to a set if you would give them the same time you would a 990 then flow em the bowls need a proper valve job right outta the box, the intake port was partial filled to a 3/4 rect port as too limbo under the copyright laws, lotta lil things that would really wake up any head if delt with.
    the heads i sold were ported by a popular head/machine shop, not sure who it was but the name was the reason i bought them. they're weren't ported to the max, they were built for a 496 door slammer, had beautiful port work and chamber work done.
    i'm not trying to sell anyone on procomp, already stated i wished i'd held out for rhs heads. they worked for me, but i just didn't bolt em on. i was turnin a big impellor(aa ss new amt)tight pump and still doin mid 90's on motor in a fully interiored lake gullwing, had to be makin some power wonder what that 80lbs extra would've cost me in mph & et

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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