I need some opinions on my block???
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I need some opinions on my block???

  1. #1
    Senior Member Marcsrollin's Avatar
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    Default I need some opinions on my block???

    I have a ford 460 block casting number DIVE-6015-A2B. I bought a set of billet splayed caps for it , upon closer inspection it looks like the splayed bolts might actually do more harm then good. It dosent appear there is enough meat where the splayed bolts would go and might weaken the structual integurity of the block. I am contemplating just removing the excess material from the caps and using them as billet 2 bolt caps instaed.
    The engine is going to be a 545. So I am hoping to make some horse power and just wanted to see what everyone else thought.
    No matter how good she looks , someone is tired of her shit!

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    Gas Dock Greg 75 spectra v-drive's Avatar
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    Buy a Chevy

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcsrollin View Post
    I have a ford 460 block casting number DIVE-6015-A2B. I bought a set of billet splayed caps for it , upon closer inspection it looks like the splayed bolts might actually do more harm then good. It dosent appear there is enough meat where the splayed bolts would go and might weaken the structual integurity of the block. I am contemplating just removing the excess material from the caps and using them as billet 2 bolt caps instaed.
    The engine is going to be a 545. So I am hoping to make some horse power and just wanted to see what everyone else thought.
    Drilling into those thin main webs will only do more harm than good...exactly as you say.
    IMO you don't need to ruin the billet caps. The main caps on a BB Ford are beefy enough. You can add studs and a main support girdle which helps distribute harmonics. In a round-about way it's a poor man's four bolt....plenty strong for some serious power.
    OR- you can try and find a DOVE 2 bolt CJ block with the thick main webs. That would be a good candidate for the aftermarket main caps.
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    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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  6. #4
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    Who's caps did you buy? I have 4 bolted a D1VE [thin web block] using Pro-Gram's splayed bolt caps. Their caps are for the Boss 429 block, have an 18 deg splayed outer bolt hole and the caps are wide enough to thread into the thick section of the block just above the pan rail.

  7. #5
    www.highflowdynamics.com LakesOnly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcsrollin View Post
    I have a ford 460 block casting number DIVE-6015-A2B. I bought a set of billet splayed caps for it , upon closer inspection it looks like the splayed bolts might actually do more harm then good. It dosent appear there is enough meat where the splayed bolts would go and might weaken the structual integurity of the block.
    When it comes to 4-bolting a 429/460 bock, there are to types of blocks: thick-webbed and standard-webbed.
    • The thick-webbed block is the single year only D0VE-A block, whose main webbing is fully machined from the main cap all the way to the pan rail.
    • All the other 429/460 block's main webbing drops below the machine line in that area and are therefore as-cast.

    Since there are two "types" of blocks, you need to purchase the type of splayed main cap that is to be fitted to the proper type of cylinder block. D0VE-A blocks use the Milodon-style main cap with a single register, and the outer bolts clamp the cap against the already machined area of the D0VE-A's webbing. All other blocks (such as your D1VE) use a double-register aftermarket 4-bolt main cap, and the outer (second) register is to be machined into the as-cast area of the standard-webbing blocks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marcsrollin View Post
    I am contemplating just removing the excess material from the caps and using them as billet 2 bolt caps instead.
    I'm pretty sure that you can also purchase a set of aftermarket steel 2-bolt caps for these blocks, if that's what you decide to do....and if you really believe that you will be asking your block to sustain so much hp that you need them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Marcsrollin View Post
    The engine is going to be a 545. So I am hoping to make some horse power and just wanted to see what everyone else thought.
    I know of a 545 that made 900+ hp naturally aspirated and lived in a 2-bolt block. The engine had about 25 dyno pulls, then ran in a door slammer truck for about 55 passes, then was sold to a rear engine dragster guy who sprayed the engine with nitrous. Somewhere past 100 passes, the cast 4.500-inch stroke crankshaft broke at the 4-8 journal. The 2-bolt block was fine. This block was hardblocked to the waterpump holes.

    I have two questions for you:
    1. How much horsepower are you targeting that you believe you need a 4-bolt conversion?
    2. Which brand caps did you buy?


    LO
    High Flow Dynamics
    Performance Components for the 429/460 Engine Family


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  8. #6
    www.highflowdynamics.com LakesOnly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 75 spectra v-drive View Post
    Buy a Chevy
    Hey 75 Spectra v-drive,

    marcsrollin is creating 545 cubes in a stock 460 block by only boring the cylinders 0.030 over. The rest is in the stroke, no clearancing required, just bore 0.030" over and drop in the rotating assembly. Try that with your "engineered for passenger car use" 454.

    LO
    High Flow Dynamics
    Performance Components for the 429/460 Engine Family


    This post © Copyright 2007-2020 Paul Kane. No copying, linking, printing or otherwise without express written permission.

  9. #7
    Senior Member Marcsrollin's Avatar
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    I would like to see between 800 and 850 hp and throw a 300 shot on top of that. So far I have bought a 4.5 forged seel crank , forged H-beam rods , and forged pistons with a 22cc dish to go along with my blue thunder 78cc heads with the raised chevy exhaust ports. The cam is still up for discussion.
    No matter how good she looks , someone is tired of her shit!

  10. #8
    www.highflowdynamics.com LakesOnly's Avatar
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    And what brand main caps did you buy?

    I have seen more broken rods, melted pistons, and windowed cylinders with nitrous than any other power adder. Given the critcallity (<---that a word?) of an engine's tune with the use of nitrous oxide, I would recommend a 4-bolt cap conversion to help minimize the possibility of cap walk.

    Still need to know what main caps you purchased....it's okay if they are cheapo-chinese CAT caps, nothing wrong with them....other than that they are copies of Milodons and therefore for intended D0VE-A blocks. But it is possible to fit them to a D1VE block if you want to take a "detour" of sorts.

    LO
    High Flow Dynamics
    Performance Components for the 429/460 Engine Family


    This post © Copyright 2007-2020 Paul Kane. No copying, linking, printing or otherwise without express written permission.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Marcsrollin's Avatar
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    I'll have to check what caps they are next time I go over to my engine builder's but I am sure they are cheapos due to the cost of them , but they LOOK to be decent caps , but they are definatly for thr DOVE-A block.
    Thank you very much for your opinions , I really appreciate them!
    Last edited by Marcsrollin; 02-08-2009 at 12:49 PM.
    No matter how good she looks , someone is tired of her shit!

  12. #10
    Senior Member Marcsrollin's Avatar
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    After careful consideration I have decided to go with the stock caps with a girdle and to half fill the block for a little extra stability, Next year I will by the better block and throw some more compression at along with the billet splayed caps. Thanks agin for all of your info!!
    No matter how good she looks , someone is tired of her shit!

  13. #11
    www.highflowdynamics.com LakesOnly's Avatar
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    I wouldn't bother filling the block, especially in a marine application where sustained upper rpms are the rule and which bring the higher oil temps (even more so with the block filler). Further, you're only 0.030" overbored so it's doubtful that the cylinder wall support gained with a 1/2-fill offsets the above noted downsides to the block fill. By the way, that 900+ hp engine I noted above was not a 545, it was actually a 557....in other words, it used an 0.080" overbore, it was sonic checked, and it was found to have a mere 0.083" wall thickness on a non-thrust area of one cylinder...hence, the use of the block fill. At just 0.030" over, the chances are good that you'll be okay with your block; never hurts to sonic check of course.

    If you can live without the nitrous until your next build (and why not? 800 hp is plenty), then just use the stock caps and oem main bolts without a block filler; switch aftermarket bolts/studs only if you go with the girdle.

    LO
    High Flow Dynamics
    Performance Components for the 429/460 Engine Family


    This post © Copyright 2007-2020 Paul Kane. No copying, linking, printing or otherwise without express written permission.

  14. #12
    Senior Member stoker2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakesOnly View Post
    marcsrollin is creating 545 cubes in a stock 460 block by only boring the cylinders 0.030 over. The rest is in the stroke, no clearancing required, just bore 0.030" over and drop in the rotating assembly. Try that with your "engineered for passenger car use" 454.

    LO
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  15. #13
    Senior Member Marcsrollin's Avatar
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    Very true , we had to take off quite a bit to get it to 10.300 deck height.
    No matter how good she looks , someone is tired of her shit!

  16. #14
    Senior Member MACHINEHEAD1's Avatar
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    Hardened main cap inserts with 3/8 cap screws will leave plenty of meat.

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