Cylinder head drain back
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 7 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 86

Thread:
Cylinder head drain back

  1. #1
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default Cylinder head drain back

    On a cylinder head that has crappy drainback or if you just wanted to route the oil back to the pan through exterior lines where is a good place to dump it back into the pan? I see Schmitt is doing this on the engines with the heads I run and I see why. Its a win win situation. So I'm going to do this here down the road, where is a good place to dump it in the pan?

    Here is how Schmitt drills/taps the head, I plan on something similar, probably use screens in the head incase I bust a spring, rocker or something?



    Dumping back into the rear of the pan would be easiest for me but the flywheel is an issue and Im unsure thats a good place.

    Where do you guys feel is the ideal place?





    B1Racing.net

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default

    Schmitts drainbacks. Looks towards the rear of the heads.







    Last edited by cs19; 02-15-2009 at 08:11 PM.
    B1Racing.net

  4. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    742

    Default

    Middle of the pad, above the tray. Been doing that deal for over 25 years on boat motors.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike 396_Ways_To_Spit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Mesa,Az "Da Eastsiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide"
    Posts
    2,925

    Default

    I was curious about the drainbacks on my AFR's. They are the size of my pinky finger. Not very big at all plus there isnt a place in the middile of the heads to drain like the cast iron BBC heads.
    G H E T T O F O E L I F E
    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    They bout shit themselves when yelled in Messican, "No brakes no brakes."
    I showed them all the sticker on the side that reads "Driver Ricky Bobby" They just looked at me and nodded yes yes
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Some peeps just build it 1 part, 1 week, 1 paycheck at a time

  7. #5
    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    El Cajon, Ca.
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    I run mine towards the back at about #4 main (starter and oil filter boss was in the way of putting it back at #5 main). I also use a scraper and one of the wrap around screens so where the oil drains back it as almost no chance of being picked up by the rods and crankshaft. My Brodix heads come with holes already pre-tapped for 3/8 NPT... they end up being right at the lowest point the oil can collect in the head. You'd be amazed at how much that lil -6 return can actually return once the oil is warmed up... like nearly none actually makes it in the holes that drain back into the valley. Of course this would also depend on how much you send up to the top.

    You have one of those fancy pants kick out pans then I'd say plumb it back into that area... anywhere it can't be picked up by flailing parts.
    The Bostick®

    Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want.

  8. #6
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default

    Thanks for the replys.



    In this pic you can sorta see how the windage screen wraps up the side of the kick out. The more I think about it, I'm thinking about dumping it back into the pan behind the windage screen towards the top of the kick out. I'm thinking that would have the best chance of not getting wrapped up in the crank and rods and it would be above the oil line there.
    B1Racing.net

  9. #7
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default

    Im thinking 3/8 pipe drains and using -8 hose.
    B1Racing.net

  10. #8
    Senior Member Robert Jonsson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Canyon Country, CA
    Posts
    601

    Default

    good idea

  11. #9
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Jonsson View Post
    good idea
    Whats up Robert?

    Where do you think the drainback should be in the pan?
    B1Racing.net

  12. #10
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    South Elgin, Il.
    Posts
    5,131

    Default

    Not too far back, your going to have a wall of oil when you nail it.

  13. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Concord, CA
    Posts
    939

    Default direction

    We use oil drain backs on the turbo motors. Keep it as high in the pan as possible, and aim it towards a main bearing. Keep it as short, and big as possible. Keep it as straight and down as possible.

    Jerry

  14. #12
    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New Port Richey, FL
    Posts
    16,873

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billet racing View Post
    We use oil drain backs on the turbo motors. Keep it as high in the pan as possible, and aim it towards a main bearing. Keep it as short, and big as possible. Keep it as straight and down as possible.

    Jerry

    Yep above the oil level onto a main cap.

  15. #13
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default

    Ended up here (where the red caps are). Its aimed at #4 main, above oil level and behind the windage screen on the kick out side. Will be using number 8 hose. Used some of those trick XRP fittings and o-ringed washers, worked out good. I was going to plumb both on the kick out side to take advantage of the windage sccreen but it would have been hard to keep the hose coming from the far bank on a downward direction so I did one on each side so its easier to plumb. Pans back on. Thanks for the pointers guys and thanks to Robert Jonsson for the help today. I will post more pics when I get the heads tapped, not sure how thats going to play out, the heads are pretty thin where I wanted to pipe tap them.

    Chris.



    B1Racing.net

  16. #14
    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    El Cajon, Ca.
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    If the head is thin then just tap them for -8 (3/4-16) and use an union with an o-ring, with the side going into the head lathed off and tapered on the inside... kinda like a fuel fitting you'd use for a regulator or somehting ... but shorter so it doesnt protrude into the inside of the head... done this a few times and works well... this is what I used for the side that goes to the pan as I didn't have much room for a nut on the inside of the pan... so I just welded a nut to the outside and used a fitting like above with an o-ring... worked peachy.
    The Bostick®

    Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 7 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95