Break in oil?
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Break in oil?

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    Senior Member PLACECRAFT20's Avatar
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    Default Break in oil?

    I am getting ready to dyno my new Raylared Whippled 496ho. I was planning on running a straight 40wt racing oil and ad one bottle of the GM break in oil for the first run. Will this be good?

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    thought lucas made a zinc break in addictive now? i'd run that , the gm eos isn't the same stuff everyone raves about, formulation has changed some. we've got a shelf full of it, also got a few cans of the ole eos at home

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    I don't know if it's any good or not, my guy put joe gibb break in oil in mine.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    I use the Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 30w brake in oil.
    It's formulated just for the purpose of breaking in engines, and has the proper level of zinc to break in engines using flat tappet cams too. I don't buy into the additive garbage from other manufacturers, it's either made to do the job or it's not. Joe Gibbs oil is very good too.

    http://www.bradpennracing.com/
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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    This is probably a dumb question(that's my specialty)...how many hours would you put on the break in oil(when I got it he'd ran it for a couple of hours). When I got my motor back from my builder, 1st thing I wanted to do was change the oil. He said no run it for a while I've got break in oil in it. I'm thinking assy lube ect??? Sorry if that was a jack.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Senior Member Bubbletop409's Avatar
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    ROYAL PURPLE is also marketing an oil now specifically formulated for break in purposes. I have no experience with the product, just putting another source out there.
    Larry

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Default Synthetic?

    I was told never go syn. until after break in. Maybe the royal purple break in stuff isn't synthetic? Last time this came up someone said it was ring/hone specific?? As far a syn. or dino.
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    I use Valvoline VR1 20-50 racing oil in everything I build and have had great luck with it and it still has zinc in it. For a roller cammed engine I advise my customers to change the oil after 10 hours of run time. But I change the oil after running on the dyno just to check for signs of anything

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    Senior Member Bubbletop409's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    I was told never go syn. until after break in. Maybe the royal purple break in stuff isn't synthetic? Last time this came up someone said it was ring/hone specific?? As far a syn. or dino.

    I've heard the same thing about syn. for break in. According to RP "this oil is formulated from highly refined mineral oil and advanced additives for optimal ring seal and rotating assembly protection during initial start up".
    Larry

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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    I don't know if it's any good or not, my guy put joe gibb break in oil in mine.
    The joe gibbs stuff is great. If it has a flat tappet make sure you use the the break in oil or you will lose the lobes. The new oils dont have the stuff in it that you need to break in the cam.

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    Red Blooded American The Doctor's Avatar
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    We used Isky cam lube (molybdenum disulfide) plus good oil with zinc in it (from our old stock) as well as EOS from GM and flattened a new cam while breaking it in on the dyno. Whether the new cams and lifters aren't built with tough enough material, machined properly or just bad luck, that was our last flat tappet cam in anything we'll ever build again. It was a customer's engine and by the time we tore everything down, inspected everything, re-washed the block then re-assembled it we were out well over a grand in parts and labor.

    A nearly identical profile roller camshaft picked us up another 65 HP!
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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Unless he specifically had a flat-tappet cam MADE for the Gen-VII, he is roller cammed. You can put the GM EOS in there if you want, but it's not needed.

    All of the new technology parts don't need non-syn oil for break in. Several LS motors (LS-7, etc) start life with synthetic in them.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    The RP stuff looks fine. It is what PACE recommends for all of their GM crate motors. Can't be bad stuff.



    Engine builders using flat-tappet cams have grown increasingly concerned that many modern motor oils do not provide adequate wear protection for new engines, particularly those using flat-tappet cams. Royal Purple has addressed this issue by developing a new engine break-in oil.
    Royal Purple Break-in Oil is formulated to allow optimal ring seal and protect rotating assembly components such as the camshaft and valve train from initial start up wear. Royal Purple combines highly refined mineral oil, preferred for engine break-in, with advanced additives containing high levels of zinc and phosphorus to optimize protection in flat-tappet and roller engines.
    Royal Purple Break-in Oil is fully formulated and does not require the use of any other chemical additives. Royal Purple recommends using their high performance motor oils after the engine is broken in for maximum engine performance.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    This is probably a dumb question(that's my specialty)...how many hours would you put on the break in oil(when I got it he'd ran it for a couple of hours). When I got my motor back from my builder, 1st thing I wanted to do was change the oil. He said no run it for a while I've got break in oil in it. I'm thinking assy lube ect??? Sorry if that was a jack.
    That's actually a very good question, and something most should know about.
    The Brad Penn break in oil is actually formulated so that it is high in zinc to help flat tappet cams break in, has a high detergent content to wash down parts as the engine runs, and is made so that it keeps foreign particulates suspended within the oil so when you change it the particles that build up during break in such as ring material, piston scuffing, and any other foreign debris will drain away when you change the oil.
    Generally speaking break in oil is only good for a 30 minute cam break in, and about 30 minutes of light duty break in. After that dump it because it will break down fast, and carry a lot of contaminates with it which is what you want it to do. You will see the normal garbage drain away from the engine with this oil, but your engine will be clean and broken in correctly. This is something an additive can not do.
    Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting"....holy shit.... what a ride!"

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