Studs or Bolts
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Studs or Bolts

  1. #1
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Default Studs or Bolts

    I purchased ARP head bolts and ARP main bolts
    for my 502 last year before I decided to add
    AFR heads.

    Should I sell them and buy studs now for the heads and mains?

    At what point do you go studs? this block has blind holes for heads.

    this is on a gen 6 502, MLS head gaskets
    less than 10psi boost around 850HP under 6100 RPM
    #55

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  3. #2
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    Default AFRs

    The AFRs use 8 longer bolts/studs along the exhaust ports. If to go to studs buy the kit with the longer studs. If you stay with bolts you can order just the 8 long ones. Quality bolts will work.......Ray
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  4. #3
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Default

    This ought to be good.

    Align hone with new studs or bolts. Studs pull differently (slightly) and bolts..well, it was machined at GM in the first place.
    Head...studs are not necessary for your power level. Mains... same.
    Wags

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  6. #4
    steelcomp was here
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    I like studs because you're pulling down with fine threads instead of coarse, and you only have the friction of the threads in the nut to overcome and the small surface of the face of the nut, where as with a bolt, you have the length of the threaded portion of bolt that's in the block causing friction, and under the head of the bolt. It's also coarse thread. Strengthwise, if properly torqued, either is adequate.
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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Default

    If you've already got the cylinders honed with bolts, stay, or you need to re-do it with the studs.

    If not, it's your choice.
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  8. #6
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Default

    No machine work has been done yet.
    #55

  9. #7
    Senior Member Bigblockbill's Avatar
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    I stud all my motors. Not even diving into the typical stud vs bolt issues most talk about I have found the old rusty blocks that have had the heads on and off several times start stripping the treads out of the block. So you can helicoil one at a time as they pull or just install a stud kit and never worry about it again. Just my .02
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  10. #8
    Distinguished Member David 519's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigblockbill View Post
    I stud all my motors. Not even diving into the typical stud vs bolt issues most talk about I have found the old rusty blocks that have had the heads on and off several times start stripping the treads out of the block. So you can helicoil one at a time as they pull or just install a stud kit and never worry about it again. Just my .02
    All the OEM Chevy stuff has trouble with rusting behind the bolts and why I'll never run one again. After a while, the damn threads pull, studs or bolts. The aftermarket blocks all have captured bolts so that whole rusting/thread pulling issue goes away.
    To the OP, I agree with others, ARP bolts are fine with what you're doing. I ran the same bolts/head gaskets on our 925 HP NA deal, no issues. Intended on using them on the same motor after changing it over to blown alcohol, but my engine "consultant" said no. We studded the heads and also the inner bolts on the mains.....
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    ....... David 519 is 100% correct........

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    .....I think people forget that racing is supposed to fun. Losing shouldn't be discouraging it should motivate you work on your pile to make it faster.....

  11. #9
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Default

    No worries about the rust, gen 6 has blind holes on deck.
    #55

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