1/4" Crank Keyway machining..pics
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1/4" Crank Keyway machining..pics

  1. #1
    TJS
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    Default 1/4" Crank Keyway machining..pics

    10 steps back and 2 steps forward. Took the whole engie apart and took the crank out to machine a second 1/4" keyway. Had to make a jig so that I could machine it exactly 180 degrees from the factory 3/16" keyway. Made the jig out of round stock (bored the hole exactly to the crank diameter then cut it down and milled it as seen. Indicated the snout to make sure everything is all nice and square and locked the crank down and milled away. Set the depth of the key to be .005 from the top of the key to the balancer as per Ken Lowe's web site (the only spec I could find.). Came out dead nuts. Now I need to finish cleaning the block and heads and get this thing back together and finish this build.
    T.J.
    ps-anybody need a BBC snout machined for a second keyway..hehe.

    This is a spin-off of my 8-71 EFI Project.
    Go here. http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=26470









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    Good idea if a guy doesn't have an index setup. Sure be quick to do the next one.

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Awesome yet simple set up
    Takin it home

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    Member wsm9808's Avatar
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    I almost built a jig a few months ago as well, but I have an index head and it works perfectly so I never took the time to build the jig. Yours looks great though, nice workmanship.

    I did however build a mandrel for my keyway broach that fits a BBC balancer hub. It has a 3/16 key groove on one side and the broach guide slot milled on the other side. It fits the balancer perfectly and makes it a breeze to cut a perfect keyway into any steel balancer with zero set up time.

    The mandrel is at work, so I cant take a picture of it right now, but I do have a pic of one of the balancers I have cut with it.


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    Nice, I ran a blown 468 with only one key. The fluid damper was very tight and I ran up to 16 lbs of boost on callies crank. Good luck. DEL.

  8. #6
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    Probably ran 25 blown motors over the years on either gas or alcohol and always ran a single 1/4" key and never a problem. But some folks just want dual keys.
    I look at it this way: The Casale input sees every bit of power the motor makes and it is single keyed. The V drive output is the same way.
    But that is cause I am simple. LOL

  9. #7
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJS View Post
    10 steps back and 2 steps forward. Took the whole engie apart and took the crank out to machine a second 1/4" keyway. Had to make a jig so that I could machine it exactly 180 degrees from the factory 3/16" keyway. Made the jig out of round stock (bored the hole exactly to the crank diameter then cut it down and milled it as seen. Indicated the snout to make sure everything is all nice and square and locked the crank down and milled away. Set the depth of the key to be .005 from the top of the key to the balancer as per Ken Lowe's web site (the only spec I could find.). Came out dead nuts. Now I need to finish cleaning the block and heads and get this thing back together and finish this build.
    T.J.
    ps-anybody need a BBC snout machined for a second keyway..hehe.

    This is a spin-off of my 8-71 EFI Project.
    Go here. http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=26470








    Whew..that is one way to do it. It is effective and accurate I am sure.
    I think there is a pro comp tool that does the same thing. I am a make it myself guy too. Cool idea.
    Index head is easy.
    Mark it and cut is easy too.
    Nice job.
    Wags

  10. #8
    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
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    Thats a good idea.

    We just indicate in the stock key with the big end in an indexing head. roll it 180 and cut it.

  11. #9
    Distinguished Member David 519's Avatar
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    BHJ makes a bitchen set up for cutting crank keys. I expected to use an index head and indicate4 off the stock key. The shop I'm doing my work at had the BHJ set up which made it a LOT easier. Wish I took some pics, but it's a set of V blocks for the mains and a square block for the crank snout. Indicate the block level with the stock key on the bottom. Cut it, then roll it over and indicate it again to cut the 180* mark. So easy a caveman (or hydro driver ) can do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    ....... David 519 is 100% correct........

    Quote Originally Posted by fuelinmyveins82 View Post
    .....I think people forget that racing is supposed to fun. Losing shouldn't be discouraging it should motivate you work on your pile to make it faster.....

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