Roached my #6 cylinder!
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Roached my #6 cylinder!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Kylemenz1's Avatar
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    Default Roached my #6 cylinder!

    Got a little ballsy and stood on the pedal a little to long. End result was oil blowing, or should I say pouring out the of the even side breather, a loud knocking, and a #6 cylinder with about 15psi of compression.

    The motor is a Merc. 525sc with a Holley 420 mega blower running about 10 psi of boost. The only other stuff done that I can tell is some roller rockers.

    I have not yet pulled the motor and torn it down but would like some sugestions or tips on what I should do to the motor when its apart for the rebuild?

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    Leak test it first. That should always be step #1.

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    Senior Member Kylemenz1's Avatar
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    Copy that. Was going to do that yesterday but it was getting late. Luckily my dads been building motors for for quite a long time and has all the tools to help me get it done.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fiat48 View Post
    Leak test it first. That should always be step #1.
    I am almost with Fiat....step 1 should be open a beer and make the problem seem less important!
    Wags

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Where was your Pyrometer temp at? ° that is...
    This is my biggest fear now that I run a blower. I run around 1250° flat out. But I try to watch the gauges and now the Pyrometer. If it starts to creep up past 1250 I let off the go pedal.
    Takin it home

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    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    Where was your Pyrometer temp at? ° that is...
    This is my biggest fear now that I run a blower. I run around 1250° flat out. But I try to watch the gauges and now the Pyrometer. If it starts to creep up past 1250 I let off the go pedal.
    You do realize that high exhaust temperature can result in too fat....fuel burning in the pipe? So a pyro isn't the whole story.

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fiat48 View Post
    You do realize that high exhaust temperature can result in too fat....fuel burning in the pipe? So a pyro isn't the whole story.
    I do now Thanks for the info Fiat48

    I pull all 8 plugs to get a better idea of where I'm at.
    Takin it home

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    Alcohol especially taught me that. 2500 degrees exhaust temperatures. Dead fat.
    So yeah....you have to do both.
    What you can do...is fatten the motor and see if the exhaust temp goes up or down. Combined with plug reading...that will give direction.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Kylemenz1's Avatar
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    I don't have a pyro. The oil temp did get up pretty high though. I am pulling it apart tomorrow morning so I'll keep everyone updated. I'll post some pics if things have gone horribly wrong!

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Kylemenz1, I asked this cause I just went through this too.I know an AFR gauge would be much better but with the wet headers I have the probe wouldn't last very long. So I got a Pyro instead. Its better than nothing. Specially how I drive the Liberator. WFO most of the time.

    I know I'm not rich at this point cause of the plug color after WFO shut down. Now I can watch the Pyro with some degree of where to let off.

    I took out an exhaust valve. Twice in less than a couple of months. Now I have Inconels on the exhaust and a pyro for that dam foot of mine. So far so good. I also had the Carbs done for the blower up here locally. Big Big help to get me in the right range.

    Good Luck
    cave
    Takin it home

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    Cave, how much ignition timing do you run?

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Right now with a 50/50 mix of AV and 91, 32° locked out
    just under 6lbs of boost
    Takin it home

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    Sometime when you are fooling around....put 34 degrees in it and see if the Pyro runs cooler.

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    I'll try it today. It might be a pain to start. No timing retard box, yet.
    Takin it home

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