Water piping directly to the heads ???
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Water piping directly to the heads ???

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    Manage MacTilley Racing Dry docked's Avatar
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    Default Water piping directly to the heads ???

    We have had a hard time getting the heat out of our motor lately.
    As is, we have two intakes on the plates, piped with 5/8" hose run separately to each side of the block. It's an SBC race boat so we do not run a water pump. The outlet is a 8 an out the side do the boat. I run another 6an hose off the motor discharge directly to the v-drive.

    So my question is; am I completely out of line by thinking I can install a 6 an tee on each intake hose and run it directly into the head? There is a 3/8" pipe plug by the exhaust outlets. That's where the heat is causing me the grief. Lost at least three exhaust valves on number 6 this year.

    Open for suggestions!
    SE-61 Dave

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    question, how are the rest of the cylinders running? Reason for the question is if the remaining 7 cylinders are running fine could you be leaning that cylinder down due to a fuel flow problem to that hole and as you state it is a race boat so what kind of induction are you using? If you are running a Gasoline or race gas can you get a plug reading? If you are running an injector you Might be looking in the wrong area. A heat problem normally is a whole engine problem but a lean cylinder is a one whole problem and as you state you have killed the exhaust valve in that 1 cylider more than once. Just a thought. M

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    steelcomp was here
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    If there's a pipe plug between the two center ex ports, you can run water directly into the head there. kinda like this:



    You can also pull water off the middle of the heads through the intake like in the picture. You also might be able to increase the volume of water through the engine with a larger discharge hose but you want to maintain some back pressure in the system to help minimize hot spots and steam pockets.
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    Ain't Right Racin piston in the wind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry docked View Post
    We have had a hard time getting the heat out of our motor lately.
    As is, we have two intakes on the plates, piped with 5/8" hose run separately to each side of the block. It's an SBC race boat so we do not run a water pump. The outlet is a 8 an out the side do the boat. I run another 6an hose off the motor discharge directly to the v-drive.

    So my question is; am I completely out of line by thinking I can install a 6 an tee on each intake hose and run it directly into the head? There is a 3/8" pipe plug by the exhaust outlets. That's where the heat is causing me the grief. Lost at least three exhaust valves on number 6 this year.

    Open for suggestions!
    SE-61 Dave
    I reverse flowed a bbc for years. Was running blown gas. Never had an issue.
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    I don't have a good pic only these from mock up and build. I run the cooling lines "priority" directly between the valves. "T" off to the front of the intake to cause the flow to go to the back of the heads down into the block and out the water pump ports. Can inspect the head gaskets if necessary.

    I'm doing the opposite by #8 in and #6 out to keep heat in the engine. Methanol

    Made my own sprint car style water inlet. The cooling temp sensor hole will work if you don't have the resources to add a hole between the valves.

    Conventional SBC not the best choice for twin turbo app due to the 2 exhaust valves. One reason the LS engine is a better design
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    question, how are the rest of the cylinders running? Reason for the question is if the remaining 7 cylinders are running fine could you be leaning that cylinder down due to a fuel flow problem to that hole and as you state it is a race boat so what kind of induction are you using? If you are running a Gasoline or race gas can you get a plug reading? If you are running an injector you Might be looking in the wrong area. A heat problem normally is a whole engine problem but a lean cylinder is a one whole problem and as you state you have killed the exhaust valve in that 1 cylider more than once. Just a thought. M

    Thanks for for the reply, been down that road with the the first three motors. We always check the plugs every race, usually they are ok. Run ave gas. John Avery set up the carb and distributor, so I know they are spot on. After three good motors we narrowed it down to the boat and not the motors. We re-piped the cooling to what I mentioned in the first post. Motor ran good at Long Beach, still to hot for my comfort level. Looking to get some more cooling to the heads. The dyno tuner was concerned that my exhaust temps are to high. At this point I am a little paranoid would like to feel good about the motor prior to San Diego next Month.

    Dave SE-61

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    Quote Originally Posted by scott foxwell View Post
    If there's a pipe plug between the two center ex ports, you can run water directly into the head there. kinda like this:



    You can also pull water off the middle of the heads through the intake like in the picture. You also might be able to increase the volume of water through the engine with a larger discharge hose but you want to maintain some back pressure in the system to help minimize hot spots and steam pockets.
    Hi Scott

    Thats exactly what I had in mind. I have not seen it done before, and was afraid it might cause other problems that I am not aware of. Have you run it like this? If so do you know how much it has dropped you're exhaust temps?

    Dave SE-61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    I don't have a good pic only these from mock up and build. I run the cooling lines "priority" directly between the valves. "T" off to the front of the intake to cause the flow to go to the back of the heads down into the block and out the water pump ports. Can inspect the head gaskets if necessary.

    I'm doing the opposite by #8 in and #6 out to keep heat in the engine. Methanol

    Made my own sprint car style water inlet. The cooling temp sensor hole will work if you don't have the resources to add a hole between the valves.

    Conventional SBC not the best choice for twin turbo app due to the 2 exhaust valves. One reason the LS engine is a better design

    Wow.. That's confusing, or I am not that smart.

    Thanks Dave SE-61

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    Senior Member bville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott foxwell View Post
    If there's a pipe plug between the two center ex ports, you can run water directly into the head there. kinda like this:



    You can also pull water off the middle of the heads through the intake like in the picture. You also might be able to increase the volume of water through the engine with a larger discharge hose but you want to maintain some back pressure in the system to help minimize hot spots and steam pockets.
    We had a splay valve sb we ran at Bonneville plumbed like this.Only we had stack injection so we had 4 returns out of the top of heads.This was run at 60 percent nitro.
    Last edited by bville; 08-29-2016 at 09:57 PM.

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry docked View Post
    Hi Scott

    Thats exactly what I had in mind. I have not seen it done before, and was afraid it might cause other problems that I am not aware of. Have you run it like this? If so do you know how much it has dropped you're exhaust temps?

    Dave SE-61
    I haven't done this but it's pretty common especially on high HP circle track engines.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bville View Post
    We had a splay valve sb we ran at Bonneville plumbed like this.Only we had stack injection so we had 4 returns out of the top of heads.This was run at 60 percent nitro.

    If you are a Bonneville guy you probably know Russ. He Is helping us set up and equalize our cooling system. Pretty much like Scotts post. We are installing 6 an lines from the back of the intake manifold to an aluminum block under the thermostat neck. Restrictor plates under the block will equalize the water flow.
    We are drilling and taping the head in the center between the exhaust valves and installing a 6 an water line withe a tee piped into the fresh water intake line.

    i will post some pictures soon as we finish it up, hopefully this weekend.

    photo is Russ flow checking some heads for us.
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    Just keep one thing in mind. There is a big difference between a closed system and a marine system with constant water from a cold water source. with a closed system the engine will flow water and fill the voids. I well understand trying to cool the cyclinder heads for exhaust temps but what about the block getting cooled around the cylinders? Open water is alot different than a closed PRESSURIZED system. My o2. M

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dry docked View Post
    If you are a Bonneville guy you probably know Russ. He Is helping us set up and equalize our cooling system. Pretty much like Scotts post. We are installing 6 an lines from the back of the intake manifold to an aluminum block under the thermostat neck. Restrictor plates under the block will equalize the water flow.
    We are drilling and taping the head in the center between the exhaust valves and installing a 6 an water line withe a tee piped into the fresh water intake line.

    i will post some pictures soon as we finish it up, hopefully this weekend.

    photo is Russ flow checking some heads for us.
    I know Russ,my partner at the time was on the the roadster committee with him.

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