I never would have thunk...
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I never would have thunk...

  1. #1
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Exclamation I never would have thunk...

    ...the below 'narrow' wear pattern was from too tight a clearance!
    .0023 to be exact, and that's a measurment from a used 'P' bearing...and I ran straight 50-wt! I'm guessing I originally only had .002 at the rods...how it didn't grab a bearing (especially with 50/wt) beats the heck outta me.
    Just looking at it, everything suggested it was loose and only running on the top/bottom of the bearing.
    Everything I've read told me P's had more room at the parting line, thus I thought that too was the reason for the narrow wear pattern. The shop that just line-honed my block(and miced the rods/crank) said the H bearing has more side clearance at the parting line...(my head hurts)...again.
    Also, I was assured .027/.030 my side clearance at the rods is a non issue for oil control >I though for sure it was too much!.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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  3. #2
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    120 views and no replies?????


    WTF?

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    Senior Member motormonkey's Avatar
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    So why did you set it so tight or not check it.

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    Default Round?

    Looks to me like it's been hammering the upper from too much clearance, and bouncing around on the cap side. What is the history of these rods, and are they deadbang round?...........Can't say I've ever seen this exact result. How heavy is the boat? ......Ray
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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkey View Post
    So why did you set it so tight or not check it.
    As I recall when these rods were reconditioned w/ARP bolts my shop asked what clearance I wanted. Back then I'm pretty sure I asked for .0028-.003 on the high end.
    Not making any excesses for myself as I should have checked it! However, ever since I had those rods reworked it's almost impossible to pull the bottom caps off. At that time I was using Plastic-Gauge and would have destroyed the reading. My shop did use a bore gauge as I saw the slight scar marks on the bearings...I thought it was good to go.
    Still, what surprises me is (if) I had lets say .002 how it didn't grab a bearing >and that's with 50 wt.
    And by the narrow wear pattern it appeared the journal was only hitting at the top/bottom of the bearing, because it was loose!
    I would think a tight bearing would show a wear pattern almost to the parting line.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

  8. #6
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    Looks to me like it's been hammering the upper from too much clearance, and bouncing around on the cap side. What is the history of these rods, and are they deadbang round?...........Can't say I've ever seen this exact result. How heavy is the boat? ......Ray
    x2, man eagle i beam rods are cheapppp soo much so its a no brainer if your current rods need bolts and resizing.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    x2, man eagle i beam rods are cheapppp soo much so its a no brainer if your current rods need bolts and resizing.
    Original GM rods...and bores are round.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    ...How heavy is the boat? ......Ray
    21 Daytona, how heavy beats me but it sure ain't no 19'.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp Speed View Post
    120 views and no replies?????


    WTF?
    You tell'em warp
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Senior Member motormonkey's Avatar
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    I thought I would help you get the thread going. I have nothing to help you with whats wrong. It has to many variables without being there to see. But hey it looks like you learned/learning something.

  13. #11
    steelcomp was here
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    I replied to this when you first posted, but something happened and I lost the thread, so I never went back and reposted. Besides, I thought we went over these already? Looks like too much clearance, or too much width @ parting lines, or both. I don't understand why you keep referring to 'grabbing a bearing", even with 50wt. Since you weren't able to check, you really don't know what the clearances were, is that correct?
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp Speed View Post
    120 views and no replies?????


    WTF?
    And that's your reply?
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  15. #13
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    As I recall when these rods were reconditioned w/ARP bolts my shop asked what clearance I wanted. Back then I'm pretty sure I asked for .0028-.003 on the high end.
    Not making any excesses for myself as I should have checked it! However, ever since I had those rods reworked it's almost impossible to pull the bottom caps off. At that time I was using Plastic-Gauge and would have destroyed the reading. My shop did use a bore gauge as I saw the slight scar marks on the bearings...I thought it was good to go.
    Still, what surprises me is (if) I had lets say .002 how it didn't grab a bearing >and that's with 50 wt.
    And by the narrow wear pattern it appeared the journal was only hitting at the top/bottom of the bearing, because it was loose!
    I would think a tight bearing would show a wear pattern almost to the parting line.
    A correct bearing should show wear to within about .200" of the parting line on each side. Your bearings shown above aren't offering much support if you consider the percentage of the bearing actually being used.

  16. #14
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    hammerdown, side clearance on steel rods is .010-.012 and on aluminum is .020-.022 and it has everything to do with oil control. also .0025 would be perfect oil clearance for stock to med performance motor up to .0035 for the far side on a race motor and the same spec for mains.

    take your rods and crank to a crank grinder and have it checkout. to me// from where im sitting rod bearings look like it was real loose (like std bearings riding on a .020 under crank (beat in the middle not on the parting lines) but from here (pic on the web) thats my shot at it. why 50 weight oil if the motor wasnt set up on the high side of oil clearance????

    trust me im not bashing you i want to help, find a crank grinder and ask for help. take your worn bearings also. first thing i would do is ask for anyshops best and most exp guy right up front and ask for help. ( not so and so %$#$ this up because he wont give you a chance to do that to him and if he ask who did the work on the crank and rod simply say i would rather not say and you dont know what happend you just what it right. and you will get a lot more help. trust me i have been on both side of this one.
    good luck// hey at least i posted... roger

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