Align bore/hone question
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Align bore/hone question

  1. #1
    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Default Align bore/hone question

    I'm building a 468 BBC and it's currently in the machining phases right now.

    My block is an '86 BBC block w/2 bolt main. I'm also running ARP main studs.

    A friend of mine is telling me that when the align bore/hone was performed that my machinist should have installed the studs in with Loctite, torqued the caps and then align bored/honed. Then he is to take the caps off but leave the studs in the block.

    However, my machinist didn't do it this way. He simply placed the studs in the block and torqued the caps down and align bored/honed it. After he was done he removed the studs from the block.

    Is it absolutely critical for the studs to be Loctite'd in while the block is being align bored/honed? Or can the studs be removed once the align bore/hone is done and reinstalled come assembly time?



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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    the studs postion the caps, removing them and mixing them up will dick with the cap alignment possibly frt to back. i do loctite all the studs i put in, don't care if its p.c. or not. might wanna look for another machine shop.

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    Senior Member Hydroguy's Avatar
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    did he align bore w/the oil pump on? should have

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Well....wrong so far.....
    1) IF using locktite, the caps must be torqued before the locktite sets up.
    2) Don't use locktite..it is a pain in the ass...
    3) ARP says...put the studs in hand tight (10 ft lbs or so...) They probably know what they are talking about.
    4) Mixing studs from one cap to another wil not affect bores. Studs do not locate the cap...just as bolts do not locate the cap.
    5) Locktite does not hold the nut/stud in place. That is why you torque the stud.

    Now, hit me with both barrels.
    Wags

  7. #5
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydroguy View Post
    did he align bore w/the oil pump on? should have
    CORRECT

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    the studs postion the caps, removing them and mixing them up will dick with the cap alignment possibly frt to back. i do loctite all the studs i put in, don't care if its p.c. or not. might wanna look for another machine shop.
    No, they don't.
    The studs are smaller than the holes they are in, they cannot index anything.

    Caps are indexed laterally (sideways) by the fact of the caps being recessed into the block.

    Caps are NOT indexed longitudinally (front to back), which is why "cap walk" happens under severe stress.

    I didn't locktite mine when I put mine in 3 years ago.

    I believe Locktite is only advised if they are to be taken apart on a regular basis (as in a racing setup), and yes, they must be torqued while wet, before cure..
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  9. #7
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    Well....wrong so far.....
    1) IF using locktite, the caps must be torqued before the locktite sets up.
    2) Don't use locktite..it is a pain in the ass...
    3) ARP says...put the studs in hand tight (10 ft lbs or so...) They probably know what they are talking about.
    4) Mixing studs from one cap to another wil not affect bores. Studs do not locate the cap...just as bolts do not locate the cap.
    5) Locktite does not hold the nut/stud in place. That is why you torque the stud.

    Now, hit me with both barrels.
    Wags
    X2, and I'll add that it's important to make sure your torque procedure and values are as close to your machinist's as possible. If they're not, you may end up with different measurements than he did.
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  10. #8
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    I just picked up my block from having this done >ARP studs w/align hone.
    I haven't tried to remove a stud but it would appear they're in their more than hand tight or have some type of thread locker.
    I was told to torque nuts @ 100 ft lbs w/50 wt oil...good thing I stock 50wt
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  11. #9
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    ARP makes lube specifically for there products... why dont people use it? I always do.

  12. #10
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    A good machine shop will use the arp lube AND stamp the block with torque specs...this leaves NO confustion a week, month, or year later when assembling the piece...
    Wags

  13. #11
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    curious, Whats involved with checking the line (not actually line honing the block), it's not just them capin/torquing the block and hitting it with a dial bore guage is it?

  14. #12
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    curious, Whats involved with checking the line (not actually line honing the block), it's not just them capin/torquing the block and hitting it with a dial bore guage is it?
    It's also checking to see if the bores are "aligned", or in a straight line. can be done a few different ways. The typical way is with a precision striaght edge. If we're clearancing a block, we can check it in the mill with a dial indicator. I've also heard of someone with a precision round bar that they slide through the mains when they're torqued, like a go/no go gauge.
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  15. #13
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    I just picked up my block from having this done >ARP studs w/align hone.
    I haven't tried to remove a stud but it would appear they're in their more than hand tight or have some type of thread locker.
    I was told to torque nuts @ 100 ft lbs w/50 wt oil...good thing I stock 50wt

    Check you ARP data sheet, the 100# torque is with Moly, oil was a higher torque spec.

  16. #14
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    Check you ARP data sheet, the 100# torque is with Moly, oil was a higher torque spec.
    Don't have the data sheet...what's the spec for the 1/2" ARP stud w/oil and what grade?
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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