Twin Turbo Real World Experience
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Twin Turbo Real World Experience

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    Gone in a Flash! Speed of Heat's Avatar
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    Default Twin Turbo Real World Experience

    I am thinking about building up an old school BBC twin turbo motor for a heavy v-drive family cruiser. Thinking of either a Banks or PFM with big intercoolers. I have all the parts to build up a low compression 468 long block with good parts. The question is how friendly is one of these motors for a cruiser? Must run on 92 oct non ethanol pump gas. I would guess maybe 5-7 lbs of boost to prevent detonation? I want to pull a big 3 blade at 6000rpm or less. Are these motors usable for part throttle cruising? Gas guzzling plug fouling pig? The water goes hard up here in the winter, so how difficult is it to totally drain the intercoolers and plumbing and winterize with antifreeze? Just don't want to waste my time with building something that will be a PITA to maintain and run. Paging Barry Obnoxious and anyone else who has run this stuff
    Last edited by Speed of Heat; 11-16-2017 at 05:57 PM.
    Remember that the Ark was built by amateurs and the Titanic was built by professionals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed of Heat View Post
    I am thinking about building up an old school BBC twin turbo motor for a heavy v-drive family cruiser. Thinking of either a Banks or PFM with big intercoolers. I have all the parts to build up a low compression 468 long block with good parts. The question is how friendly is one of these motors for a cruiser? Must run on 92 oct non ethanol pump gas. I would guess maybe 5-7 lbs of boost to prevent detonation? I want to pull a big 3 blade at 6000rpm or less. Are these motors usable for part throttle cruising? Gas guzzling plug fouling pig? The water goes hard up here in the winter, so how difficult is it to totally drain the intercoolers and plumbing and winterize with antifreeze? Just don't want to waste my time with building something that will be a PITA to maintain and run. Paging Barry Obnoxious and anyone else who has run this stuff
    You can have a sound, reliable package, just keep the boost down like you are thinking, make sure ignition timing is correct, fuel system is important, I had a sort of fail safe parallel system in my Schiada race boat that never failed me. Intercooler is very important, as is plumbing for good water flow. It's not that hard to pull lines to drain water for winter, or use a funnel and anti freeze if you prefer. You can probably set it up to run 5500 rpm max with gear and prop.

    I actually have a Schiada here right now with complete Race Aero 496 that I built a few years back. Inspecting the boat and sorting out a few missing pieces so I can make it run and the family can sell it. They might consider separating the engine (maybe has 5 hours on it)

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    Barry, can you share some more insight on the "fail safe" parallel fuel system you mentioned?

    I am planning an install of a recent 540 TT build in the next month or so and need to start working out the details on fuel, cooling, and oil plumbing.

    Thanks,

    Len

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    Quote Originally Posted by lenmann View Post
    Barry, can you share some more insight on the "fail safe" parallel fuel system you mentioned?

    I am planning an install of a recent 540 TT build in the next month or so and need to start working out the details on fuel, cooling, and oil plumbing.

    Thanks,

    Len
    Sure, on a carbureted system, you can run a high volume, high pressure mechanical fuel pump, as well as an electric pump. You should put one way check valves to make sure that if one of the pumps fails, the other will not send fuel back through it. The whole point was to not lean the engine out at high speed if a pump failed. I don't have a photo but had a fuel distribution block below the damper on the engine mount plate with the lines from the two fuel pumps entering the block through the check valves, and lines exiting the block to each carburetor, kept everything sort of neat and tidy that way.

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    Interesting timing for this to come up, I was just starting to think about collecting parts for a build in the the future.


    Barry, Would it be realistic to look 800hp+ out of a properly built engine with a few more cubes, (low 500's), and still expect decent reliability?
    The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sintax View Post
    Interesting timing for this to come up, I was just starting to think about collecting parts for a build in the the future.


    Barry, Would it be realistic to look 800hp+ out of a properly built engine with a few more cubes, (low 500's), and still expect decent reliability?
    Keep in mind that the small Rajay 301 E 1.0 turbos were originally chosen to work with a stock bore 454 cubic inch engine, so you may want to consider at least larger exhaust housings, or perhaps better yet, a larger turbo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by obnoxious001 View Post
    Keep in mind that the small Rajay 301 E 1.0 turbos were originally chosen to work with a stock bore 454 cubic inch engine, so you may want to consider at least larger exhaust housings, or perhaps better yet, a larger turbo.

    Makes sense. Is there a suitable upgrade path while retaining the water cooled housing? Are you better off hunting for a gentry kit?

    I'm likely putting the cart before the horse on this one, I'll reach out to you later next year about getting a long block put together and sort out a proper turbo setup after!

    Thanks in advance =)
    The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
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    Barry- to add to this conversation.

    I have a complete banks set up, single carb deal i want to put in a family ski boat. What is a realistic HP that i can expect and have a turn key reliable motor. My set up looks just like the one in this picture.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmeads View Post
    Barry- to add to this conversation.

    I have a complete banks set up, single carb deal i want to put in a family ski boat. What is a realistic HP that i can expect and have a turn key reliable motor. My set up looks just like the one in this picture.
    I know what the claimed power is on that particular boat, but nothing was said about fuel and boost. Been meaning to call the dyno guy but it hasn't been high on my list.

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    Quote Originally Posted by obnoxious001 View Post
    I know what the claimed power is on that particular boat, but nothing was said about fuel and boost. Been meaning to call the dyno guy but it hasn't been high on my list.
    To be clear, this is not my motor or boat. I was just referencing the banks set up as like the one i have. Thanks

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    Default Parallel Fuel System

    I built a hybrid fuel system for the red boat. Could be used as a fail safe if someone wanted to build something similar.

    I needed enough methanol for 1500 Hp and the precision 325 lb/hr injectors are not enough. Not enough room (or $$ ) to double them up so I put a 4 GPM manual system spraying into the top of each intake runner.

    My ECU will output a ground at pretty much any engine scenario so I had it open a CO2 sol at 10 lbs of boost. And it shuts off when boost drops below 10 lbs. The EFI system will respond instantly to maintain the programmed A/F ratio.

    A CO2 cylinder opens a standard Enderle shut off valve.

    Don't need an EFI system to run something similar. A pressure switch should do the trick.
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    If For Some Reason I Do Something Worthy Of Recognition. God Provided The Ability And Deserves The Credit.


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    Found a couple more
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    If For Some Reason I Do Something Worthy Of Recognition. God Provided The Ability And Deserves The Credit.


    QE 439 Twin Turbo

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    So while we're on the discussion regarding fuel- I see some of the Banks setups had single carbs between the turbos as well as dual carbs both in line on a common plenum or side by side. Is the dual carb vs single carb a function of boost and RPM? I've read people making the statement that a single carb is always on the edge of going lean, hence burndown? Don't know what level of boost or fuel type they are using. Was the move to dual carb a limitation of then existing single carb cfm flow? Just found a pic while searching of a single Dominator-wonder how that might work? -Just trying to keep the conversation going and learn more details
    Remember that the Ark was built by amateurs and the Titanic was built by professionals.

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    Barry, I talked with the owner AJ after he had it dynoed.It was 880hp at 5500rpm,15lbs of boost on AVgas. I can take credit for the build. It does have an aeromotive electric fuel pump with a Holley manual fuel pump with the one way check valves

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