[Question] 383 SBC build help
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383 SBC build help

  1. #1
    Senior Member flatwater's Avatar
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    Default 383 SBC build help

    Hello fella’s,

    Been a while, enjoyed my 73 Stevens build for the last few years, and have now sold and bought a more family friendly ski boat as we have a growing family with two little boys (one due next month). Ended up landing a 1993 Centurion bow rider that is in need of a new heart. Previous engine was a 5.7 advertised as 330hp. I have owned this type of boat before (not a bowrider) and found it underpowered and compared to the Stevens, will seem like a tank. So I am thinking about a new build that consists of a 383 stroker. I have done some research, but am asking for some advice before I pull the trigger incase I’m missing anything.

    From what I understand, when I get my block machined, I should go .001” larger in the cylinder bore and give .003” room on my bearings to accommodate marine life. Is this accurate and any other machining requirements needed for a marine block that is raw water cooled?

    Looking to build a strong runner that will pull me out of the water with a few people in the boat. Looking more for torque and lower RPM’s (1000-5500). And no, a big block won’t fit. Looking to cut weight were I can using aluminum exhaust, intake and heads.

    Bronze frost plugs and Marine head gaskets to add into the mix.

    Was thinking about the below components for the 21’ inboard ski boat 383 SBC Stroker build. Approx. weight 2750lbs with original engine from factory.

    350 block, 4 bolt, 1pc rear seal
    Shop work-
    Line hone crank/cam
    Bore .001” larger in cylinder walls
    Square up decks

    Eagle rotating assy
    AFR 180 heads (bare) (idle-5500 RPM range)
    CR around 9:1
    Comp cams xtream marine kit includes hyd roller/pushrods/springs/chain etc. (1000-5000 RPM range)
    Suggestions for Valves, research is telling me get Inconel exhaust. Can I get a complete kit that includes the Inconel?
    Aluminum intake dual plane (currently have)
    HEI distributer
    Glenwood aluminum exhaust wet logs
    Holley sniper EFI self-tuning system or Holley Marine Avenger (670cfm) or so?

    Target HP 400-425
    Target TQ 375-400

    thoughts?

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  3. #2
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Look into the other combos for crank stroke and rod length if you are going to go a small block more inch and longer rod deal. Check on the 406 engine.

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    Senior Member jockorace's Avatar
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    The 383 combo is a great way to boost torque on a 350 engine you already own. The crank on that 'kit' is a 400 SBC crank and you usually run 6" rods vs 5.7 350 rods. A 406 has the same components, since it's just an overbored 400. Both will meet your HP and Torque needs! Jocko

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    Senior Member andyc's Avatar
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    Default clearance

    I believe the inside block will need some massaging with the stroke crank. Rod-block clearance.

  7. #5
    Senior Member flatwater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    Look into the other combos for crank stroke and rod length if you are going to go a small block more inch and longer rod deal. Check on the 406 engine.
    I can only find ONE 406 engine and guy wants 2k for it. I will have to rip it apart and machine it will add another 1k. I'd be starting at 3k and my budget would take a hit.

    Quote Originally Posted by jockorace View Post
    The 383 combo is a great way to boost torque on a 350 engine you already own. The crank on that 'kit' is a 400 SBC crank and you usually run 6" rods vs 5.7 350 rods. A 406 has the same components, since it's just an overbored 400. Both will meet your HP and Torque needs! Jocko
    I don't have block yet, but can pick one up for $200. Called the machine shop and they say about $1000 to get it fixed up all said and done. As above, I can only find one 406 in my area and not worth the bother cash wise.

    Quote Originally Posted by andyc View Post
    I believe the inside block will need some massaging with the stroke crank. Rod-block clearance.
    I understand this and am wondering if I should massage before it goes to the machine shop? I'd have to test fit and grind, I'd rather do this before it goes so they can clean everything up correct?

    I did see a local add for a "little M block" Not sure how much work it would need, have not heard back from him yet. Would make for a nice platform to start.

    thanks for the feedback guys.

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    Mopar 383,one tuff engine

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gone Green View Post
    Mopar 383,one tuff engine
    He's looking for SBC......His rig is already set up for SBC.....

  10. #8
    Senior Member flatwater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gone Green View Post
    Mopar 383,one tuff engine
    SBC.... but hope it will be tuff!

    Quote Originally Posted by purpledragon View Post
    He's looking for SBC......His rig is already set up for SBC.....
    You are correct sir.

    Question- Think I might have found a block... all cleaned up, pretty good deal, but stock bore size. Stock bore would be a 377? might have to get it punched out .030 to make the "383". would I notice the few shy CI? probably no..... ah the decisions....

  11. #9
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatwater View Post
    SBC.... but hope it will be tuff!



    You are correct sir.

    Question- Think I might have found a block... all cleaned up, pretty good deal, but stock bore size. Stock bore would be a 377? might have to get it punched out .030 to make the "383". would I notice the few shy CI? probably no..... ah the decisions....
    I will say if it is a clean bore and good for a piston combo that will work for what you want then I will say build it and save the meat in the cylinders for another season. Just CAM the thing right for your'e needs. Don't go by any thing other than a grinder(who knows what he is doing) and his recommendations. I have seen alot of engines built real good with a cam that is not even close to reality for the real build. Over caming is my favorite. In other words installing a cam for where you wish you could be instead of where you really will be. Mark

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    Senior Member jockorace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    I will say if it is a clean bore and good for a piston combo that will work for what you want then I will say build it and save the meat in the cylinders for another season. Just CAM the thing right for your'e needs. Don't go by any thing other than a grinder(who knows what he is doing) and his recommendations. I have seen alot of engines built real good with a cam that is not even close to reality for the real build. Over caming is my favorite. In other words installing a cam for where you wish you could be instead of where you really will be. Mark
    LISTEN TO MARK......lots of knowledge there! Jocko

  13. #11
    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatwater View Post
    SBC.... but hope it will be tuff!



    You are correct sir.

    Question- Think I might have found a block... all cleaned up, pretty good deal, but stock bore size. Stock bore would be a 377? might have to get it punched out .030 to make the "383". would I notice the few shy CI? probably no..... ah the decisions....
    If the bore is not perfect, I always try to save bore thickness if a block I am building will clean up properly only removing .002" or .003". Then I get custom made pistons from Racetec that properly fit the bore. Costs a small amount more, but also save the cost of boring the block, so it evens out, and there is more wall thickness left in the block for strength as well as future rebuilds.

    Depending on the level of power, say you are making 1 hp per cubic inch, or even 1 1/4 hp per cubic inch, 6 or 7 hp is not going to be a noticeable difference.

  14. #12
    Senior Member flatwater's Avatar
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    Agree on all info above thanks. Sent Chris an email to help with part selection and cam help at www.straubtechnologies.com I think I'm in good hands Aiming for idle to 4600 rpm power range. Need enough "oomph" to get out of the hole and up to 38. I'll miss getting out of the water behind the Stevens in all of 4 feet


    Still searching for a block.... the hunt continues...

    Last edited by flatwater; 05-14-2018 at 04:09 PM.

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    This is a 400 we just did. 9 to 1 compression, AFR 195's, Custom Straub cam .480/470 209/209 on 112
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    Last edited by cstraub; 05-18-2018 at 06:20 AM.
    Chris Straub
    Straub Technologies

    3HP is an A$$ Whooping!!! JW

  16. #14
    Member oldseddie's Avatar
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    If you're planning on running raw water cooling avoid a 400 sbc as the cylinders are Siamesed and have steam vent holes in the block and heads to help cooling the beast. I'm running a 400 with the extreme marine roller Cam and Edelbrock heads turning a "b" impeller a little over 5000 rpm, but have a closed cooling system.

    Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk

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