Been a while, enjoyed my 73 Stevens build for the last few years, and have now sold and bought a more family friendly ski boat as we have a growing family with two little boys (one due next month). Ended up landing a 1993 Centurion bow rider that is in need of a new heart. Previous engine was a 5.7 advertised as 330hp. I have owned this type of boat before (not a bowrider) and found it underpowered and compared to the Stevens, will seem like a tank. So I am thinking about a new build that consists of a 383 stroker. I have done some research, but am asking for some advice before I pull the trigger incase I’m missing anything.
From what I understand, when I get my block machined, I should go .001” larger in the cylinder bore and give .003” room on my bearings to accommodate marine life. Is this accurate and any other machining requirements needed for a marine block that is raw water cooled?
Looking to build a strong runner that will pull me out of the water with a few people in the boat. Looking more for torque and lower RPM’s (1000-5500). And no, a big block won’t fit. Looking to cut weight were I can using aluminum exhaust, intake and heads.
Bronze frost plugs and Marine head gaskets to add into the mix.
Was thinking about the below components for the 21’ inboard ski boat 383 SBC Stroker build. Approx. weight 2750lbs with original engine from factory.
350 block, 4 bolt, 1pc rear seal
Line hone crank/cam
Bore .001” larger in cylinder walls
Square up decks
Eagle rotating assy
AFR 180 heads (bare) (idle-5500 RPM range)
CR around 9:1
Comp cams xtream marine kit includes hyd roller/pushrods/springs/chain etc. (1000-5000 RPM range)
Suggestions for Valves, research is telling me get Inconel exhaust. Can I get a complete kit that includes the Inconel?
Aluminum intake dual plane (currently have)
Glenwood aluminum exhaust wet logs
Holley sniper EFI self-tuning system or Holley Marine Avenger (670cfm) or so?
Target HP 400-425
Target TQ 375-400