points coil question..
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points coil question..

  1. #1
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Default points coil question..

    Ive had a bad day with wiring on the boat and finally was able to make sense of the wiring the previous owner did.. And yes i did purchase the stuff today to wire up a new harness..

    But my question is when i turn the key to the on poistionthe wire leading to the ballast resistor gets hot and leads to the + side of the coil..

    But when that heats up the - side of the coil gets hot as well and my tach jumps to 8,000.

    Is the - side supposed to get an electrical signal with just the key on???

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    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    Ive had a bad day with wiring on the boat and finally was able to make sense of the wiring the previous owner did.. And yes i did purchase the stuff today to wire up a new harness..

    But my question is when i turn the key to the on poistionthe wire leading to the ballast resistor gets hot and leads to the + side of the coil..

    But when that heats up the - side of the coil gets hot as well and my tach jumps to 8,000.

    Is the - side supposed to get an electrical signal with just the key on???
    Sounds like you got a couple wires crossed on the tach.
    Last edited by Jetaholic; 08-12-2009 at 09:09 PM.



    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown
    Kendall L-427 Super Blu...extreme-pressure (ep) lithium complex keeps my thrusting balls happy
    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Well I am putting in a nice stereo system in the Carrera...maybe Ill put on some rap and turn the scoop sideways

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    Senior Member earlbrown's Avatar
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    Default

    Or the points just happen to be closed.

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    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by earlbrown View Post
    Or the points just happen to be closed.
    distributer not installed at the moment..

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    Senior Member fleetimus's Avatar
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    Time for a HEI

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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Tach hooks to the minus on the coil. Make sure the wire that goes to the "S" terminal of the starter soleniod is not shorted, or laying on a ground.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
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  9. #7
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleetimus View Post
    Time for a HEI
    tunnel ram wont allow it.

  10. #8
    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    The only way the coil could be getting hot is if something was completing the circuit on the - side of the coil when the key is turned on, allowing current to flow through the resistor and coil to ground. Since the dizzy is not installed, the only other thing on that side that could complete the circuit is the tach itself.

    Depending on the tach you have, you should have a Ground, + Power, and a Sender terminal on the tach. The Sender terminal should go to the wire that comes from the - side of the coil. + Power should go to a wire coming from the key switch, while Ground goes to ground.

    If the tach wiring is correct, either the tach is shorted or you have a short to ground somewhere in the tach circuit.



    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown
    Kendall L-427 Super Blu...extreme-pressure (ep) lithium complex keeps my thrusting balls happy
    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Well I am putting in a nice stereo system in the Carrera...maybe Ill put on some rap and turn the scoop sideways

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    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    Ive had a bad day with wiring on the boat and finally was able to make sense of the wiring the previous owner did.. And yes i did purchase the stuff today to wire up a new harness..

    But my question is when i turn the key to the on poistionthe wire leading to the ballast resistor gets hot and leads to the + side of the coil..

    But when that heats up the - side of the coil gets hot as well and my tach jumps to 8,000.

    Is the - side supposed to get an electrical signal with just the key on???

    By "gets hot" do you mean temperature or are saying you measure B+ at those points? If it is the latter, then you are getting the correct readings. Without the distributor connected, and points closed, the circuit has no ground. With no ground there should be no current flowing. With no current flowing all points along the circuit should show B+. Your tach, however should not be reading at all.

  12. #10
    cfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    tunnel ram wont allow it.

    Ignitor 1, 2, or 3 :
    http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/default.aspx

    Plus many other companies make/sell conversions like this also.

  13. #11
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    Default Mag it!!

    Stick a one wire mag in it and forget it. All you'll need is a kill switch to ground, and it will fit behind the T/Ram.......
    The ballast resistor will get hot, and smoke when first used. Using a point type set up, until totally hooked up, you may see all sorts of weird stuff going on. I would hook everything up, and if you still have issues, disconnect the tach and see if anything changes.....How old is this boat, and tach? Early S/W, Dixco, etc. tachs used a "box" and were not connected directly to coil-.........The ballast has a "resistance" rating, and that needs to be correct for the coil and condenser.......A temporary fuse in the 12V source might be a good idea....Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  14. #12
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    ok so tach is disconnected at dash from all 12v source, and all wires disconnected from - side of coil...

    When the key is on the - side has a constant hot..

    coil bad???

  15. #13
    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    ok so tach is disconnected at dash from all 12v source, and all wires disconnected from - side of coil...

    When the key is on the - side has a constant hot..

    coil bad???
    Nope...with nothing to complete the circuit at the - side, you will measure full battery voltage there because there's nothing drawing current through the circuit to cause the voltage to drop there. The fact that you have full supply voltage at the - side of the coil with nothing connected to it means that the coil primary has continuity, so more than likely the coil is good.

    Under normal operation, the points open and close, breaking and completing the circuit at the - terminal. When the circuit is complete, no voltage exists between the tach "S" terminal and ground. When the points open, this causes voltage to appear there, which places this voltage between the tach S terminal and ground. The frequency of this is determined by RPM. The frequency of the signal rises with RPM and it is this "square wave signal" that the tach reads the frequency of to calculate RPM.
    Last edited by Jetaholic; 08-13-2009 at 05:13 PM.



    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown
    Kendall L-427 Super Blu...extreme-pressure (ep) lithium complex keeps my thrusting balls happy
    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Well I am putting in a nice stereo system in the Carrera...maybe Ill put on some rap and turn the scoop sideways

  16. #14
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    ok so tach is disconnected at dash from all 12v source, and all wires disconnected from - side of coil...

    When the key is on the - side has a constant hot..

    coil bad???

    Like I said last night in my post.....that is EXACTLY what you should expect to find.

    What is the problem you are chasing?????

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