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looks like a big red carb issue?? just kidding.
sorry about your luck there,stock parts just cant hold up under heavy duty conditions.
i think what happened is the rod bolt let go.
i went to the junk yard and found quite a few 460's to replace it with just trying to decide on which one.
there are 3 late 1970's Lincoln continentals with 460's
and there are 4 1980's f-250's 2 are fuel injected and the other two are carbureted one of the carbureted ones mileage is unknown and is a 1984 the other is 1986 and has lpg tanks in the back and looks like it has been set up from the factory to run off propane and it only has 60k miles on it either that or 160k but either way i read that cars that run off cng or lpg have almost zero wear so im thinking this will be my engine unless there is something anyone knows that would help if that year is not good or something.
oh and my engine that was in the boat is a 1973
hmmm witch came first chicken or the egg! $4000.00 rotating assembly? you ford guys are getting taken to the cleaners.lol
anyway (iminaboat) there are some good ford guys to steer you in the right direction here they will chime in here pretty quick, sleeper cp has great knowlege of whats what on the year changes of that engine family.
No, what I'm saying is, I don't care what parts you put it, that crack won't help one or the other.
From the looks of that cracked cylinder it looks like it's been cracked for some time judging from the rust. It is possible for a rod bolt to break but not likely, the stock rods are known for breaking mid beam. Before you go any further look for the cause of the cracked cyl. it could be from detonation and if not corrected the same thing is going to happen to your "new" engine. As for the junkyard engines all the ones you have looked at most likely are cast piston engines unless they have been rebuilt, not recommended for marine use. The truck engines at least have the better[?] rods than the passenger car engines. I would forget the junkyard engines unless you are going to build a purpose built marine engine and need a core to build. A car/truck engine is not suitable for a boat and generally will not last. If you build a fresh engine buy a set of good aftermarket rods such as Eagles [decent rod for the price] forged pistons and have a good machine shop do the crank and block prep and set the clearances for marine use. If you do a stroker there are several options available at a reasonable cost. If you go this route buy a complete rotating assembley, do not try to piece the assembly yourself unless you have engine building experence. You can build up to 572" using a stock block but it will need to be a perfect casting that will pass a sonic test as it will need to be bored to 4.500". A very popular BBF combo is a 4.39" bore x 4.300" stroke [521"] This is popular as the block is only bored .030" over and the 4.300" crank works fine with the shorter cylinders of the early blocks [C8-C9-D0-D1] the late blocks [D9] have a .250" longer cylinder but will not work with a early larger diam. crank without some clearancing of the block.
Within the heart of every stray lies the singular desire to be loved. "Good grief you're an irritating blowhard...." [Tex 6/16/11]
the engine sat for a while thats why it rusted. my theory why the rod bolt let go is because the rod journal is rough and oxidized because the motor was sitting for about 5 years so it had a lot of friction on the bearing and caused it to spin and breaking either the cap bolt or the cap itself. ive noticed how thin the 460 rod caps are compared to other engines i have built.
as far as the block i think im going to go with the D9TE for now it should work fine since it already has truck rods in it and i found a externaly balanced stroker kit which will work with the D9 block for down the road when i turbo it.