Where do I start. Cliff's notes version: Don't buy one. I bought my 21 Daytona with this motor, which was advertised as having 10 hours on the 572 crate motor. Well, about two hours into my first day out with the boat, It loses oil psi and overheats. BUMMER!
Luckily I own a shop and have grown up drag racing cars with BBC motors, so I took the motor out, and tore it down.
I'm pretty sure the previous owner was truthful about it having low hours since the flat tappets didn't even have a wear pattern yet. I managed to shut it down prior to hurting the crank and rods. The main problem? Whoever put the boat oil pan on used to much silicone and it flaked off clogging the oil gallies. Talk about a retard move! But it's what I and the machine shop found that is a concern.
First off, the intake valves were hitting the Manley pistons. Wow! A so called "Engine builder" Bill Mitchell assembled this. The valve reliefs were in the wrong place! The intake valves(All of them) were hitting the back side of the reliefs. Isnt this is a pretty basic thing to check when building a motor!
Next the intake valves were too long, requiring about a quarter inch of shim for the valve spring. As a result of the shims, all the valve seals came off of the guides. The machine shop told me the installed height and it was redicules, but I cant remember the exact number. I had to replace all the intake valves. Goodtimes!
The Exhaust valve are too short, Not sure how much, I'll post it when I pick the motor up next week and get the build sheet. But we were able to make them work.
None of the rod and pistons were even balanced, they came out of the box and were assembled
The crank was 38g out of balance.
The rings were already worn out, Either the carb was set up wrong washing them out(Possible) Or the polished(Too fine of a final hone?) cylinders never allowed the rings to seat.
I haven't checked the pushrod length yet, I can only imagine they will be the wrong length.
Lastly, I highly doubt the .568 lift [email protected] 114 sep (called for .030 lash, puts it at a .538 valve lift) flat tappet solid cam would allow this big motor to breath well enough to make the advertised 700hp. So I put a custom Crower roller in it(.658 lift 256/[email protected] on a 114) It will be on the Dyno next week.
All told I'm in it $6600 at the machine shop. Ok, I added the roller($1600) so make it 5k to fix the new crate motor. I would have been better off buying the boat without the motor, And building my own motor. Then it wouldn't have a crappy Eagle rotating assembly. But when I bought it I thought it would be a turn key reliable boat(Thats how it was advertised). Who would have thought Bill Mitchell would let such a POS leave his shop. After talking with my machine shop, It sounds like the norm from that place.
The Good? The question mark in back of the boat is now a solid piece. GAME ON!!!