Oil Pan Windage Tray ???
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Oil Pan Windage Tray ???

  1. #1
    Senior Member The Violater's Avatar
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    Default Oil Pan Windage Tray ???

    I'm finishing up a 496 Tall deck gen 4 stroker motor and I have a 10 qt. Bassett Chrome Pan. The problem is that the windage tray won't clear the oil pick up tube (v-drive), and rotating assembly. There are no scrapers built on the sides of this pan either. Should I just say screw it and run with no scrapers or tray, I could fabricate a couple of scrapers and ruin the chrome, or buy another pan. The motor is being set up to twist about 6000 in a 21 Spectra. What do you guys think ????? Can I get by without a windage tray ????
    / The Few The Proud TheBlown

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  3. #2
    steelcomp was here
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    Leave the tray out.
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

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    my hamburgers kick out pan has a screen bolted to the pan on the inside look at a stefs or canton pan and you will see what i mean on there web site.you can buy this screen from moroso and fab it to your pan or buy a new stefs from chris stroub on this web site

    imo- i would never run a bbc in a v-drive without a windage tray or pickup tube not made by the manufactor of the pan,once you airerate the oil your pumping foam thru your motor and that wont last very long.

    what kind of oil pump are you going to run?

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  6. #4
    Senior Member The Violater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by havasubyou View Post
    my hamburgers kick out pan has a screen bolted to the pan on the inside look at a stefs or canton pan and you will see what i mean on there web site.you can buy this screen from moroso and fab it to your pan or buy a new stefs from chris stroub on this web site

    imo- i would never run a bbc in a v-drive without a windage tray or pickup tube not made by the manufactor of the pan,once you airerate the oil your pumping foam thru your motor and that wont last very long.

    what kind of oil pump are you going to run?
    A mellings high volume. Just an over the counter piece you can buy at any parts store. I have the bassett pick up and I beefed up the front brace and am going to tack weld it to the pump. I have been running these pumps in everything for years and not had any failures. This will be my first blown, roller cammed stroker motor, I have always ran a windage tray or a pan with scrapers in the past, but with the stroker crank the rods don't clear the tray.
    / The Few The Proud TheBlown

  7. #5
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    I have a Steff's windage / scraper kit I can sell you. Bolts in place no need for welding.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Violater View Post
    A mellings high volume. Just an over the counter piece you can buy at any parts store. I have the bassett pick up and I beefed up the front brace and am going to tack weld it to the pump. I have been running these pumps in everything for years and not had any failures. This will be my first blown, roller cammed stroker motor, I have always ran a windage tray or a pan with scrapers in the past, but with the stroker crank the rods don't clear the tray.
    my 565 has a 14 qt dooley setup with tray and it fit fine.4.250 stroke short deck deal. my 4.500 stroke t/d has the screen that is made to the pan.
    also i have seen some windage tray bolts that have a different lengths to them like milodon that are adjustable length that may fix you currant setup?
    have seen some mark 6 studs that have longer treads on the main side and shorter stands on the tray side that will cause big proublems (sold on ebay) so mains side will bottom out on mark 4 block and leave the main caps loose but torque down like they are tight (1/8 inch to long)
    and the tray side is 1/4'' shorter and rods hit windage tray. dont ask!!
    i run the melling select pumps,but i see the jury is out on weather they really have billet gears like the box says they have/seems some do and some dont?? bean counters i hate them. also i have a moroso race pump with the cav slots in my new 565 but runs low pressure when the motor gets to temp then looks like a tach when you throttle it. i would weld the pump all the way around and if you must tack weld it use some of the green thread locker to seal up any vacuume leak the pump pickup tube may have.
    also i would block the oil filter adaptor bypass and run a full flow oil filter like a k&n hp 6002 filter for good flow and full filtering of your oil.

    as for the pan i really like the screens over the metal style tray that just bounces the oil off it but it's better than your oil being thrown into the rotating assembly when you smash into a wave at speed.

    if you need any pics or anything just send me a pm and ill help as i can

  9. #7
    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Violater View Post
    but with the stroker crank the rods don't clear the tray.
    Try one washer on each stud under the tray, might get it done and still have plenty of threads for the nuts. It has worked for me before with a 4.250" crank and steel rods. I always use a flat washer under the nut to try and distribute the load and prevent the tray cracking from the bolt hole.

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    Senior Member The Violater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    I have a Steff's windage / scraper kit I can sell you. Bolts in place no need for welding.
    Does it bolt to the sides of the pan ? The problem is that the tube for the oil pump won't clear the windage tray if I shim it up where it will clear the crank. Maybe I will just pop for a 14 qt all new set up. I have some time, the boat is in the body shop ...................Cheap is good, but sometimes you really pay the price to 'cheap out'...............
    / The Few The Proud TheBlown

  11. #9
    steelcomp was here
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    The trays that bolt to the bottom of the mains really don't do much. In fact, all they really do is reflect oil back on the crankshaft causing more drag. They don't keep oil from the pan splashing on the crank. That's not the purpose of a windage tray. The purpose of a windage tray is to reduce windage, or the effect of the spinning crank assembly whipping up the oil. That's why most quality pans have the tray down in the pan and as far away from the crank as possible. The oil can come off the crank and back into the pan with no interfearance, and the oil in the pan is protected from windage.
    If you have a deep sump pan, you're better off leaving the tray off the bottom of the mains.
    JMO
    If God is your co-pilot, change seats!
    Acts 2:38, the perfect answer to the perfect question.

  12. #10
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Violater View Post
    Does it bolt to the sides of the pan ? The problem is that the tube for the oil pump won't clear the windage tray if I shim it up where it will clear the crank. Maybe I will just pop for a 14 qt all new set up. I have some time, the boat is in the body shop ...................Cheap is good, but sometimes you really pay the price to 'cheap out'...............
    Yes it bolts to the sides of the pan, pre formed flanges, and screen for windage control. Now that I think about it it was my pan that had the scraper

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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    Yes it bolts to the sides of the pan, pre formed flanges, and screen for windage control. Now that I think about it it was my pan that had the scraper

    This would be your best bet.
    Chris Straub
    Straub Technologies

    3HP is an A$$ Whooping!!! JW

  14. #12
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    Default Melling HV

    At the very least inspect your pump very carefully. Check all the numbers, body depth, impeller height, end cap clearance and perpendicularity.... Using any oil pump "out of the box" is rolling the dice. I also have concerns with welding the pick up in. I know, I know, we've "done it for years", but it will distort the pump body, and a distorted pump body leads right back to the numbers mentioned above. The pump is the "heart" of the lubrication system and "OK" is never good enough....IMO........Look into the Melling 10778, (the 10778C is not recommended for street use or any other extended low RPM use) it is leaps and bounds above the MV77HV...........Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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    Senior Member superdave013's Avatar
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    Hey, I hear you bought "The Short Bus".
    I got to hang some fin in that bad boy.

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  16. #14
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    I see no reason to weld the pick up tube on a v-drive. Mine is bolted to one of the stand off studs at the screen pick up.

    Tim

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