ls 5.3liter single turbo alky project
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ls 5.3liter single turbo alky project

  1. #1
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Default ls 5.3liter single turbo alky project

    Last edited by IMPATIENT 1; 11-30-2009 at 07:05 AM.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

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  3. #2
    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
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    For comparison we just dynoed a 5.4L Ford DOHC motor (331 ci) with a whipple blower, E85 fuel, and a FAST XFI/XIM. 13.5 psi made 900 hp.

    Tuning today on the dyno a similar motor at 366 ci with more boost. It's about 3:1 blower OD.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

    http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MAH05771.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
    No one cares about your buddies old antiquated garden hose technology.
    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

  4. #3
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Tom, have you been over to LS1Tech.com yet? If not check it out...lots of guys are going the turbo route and more info there than you probably care to read lol. Good deals on parts too


    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

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    Senior Member TwinTurbo540's Avatar
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    I think you guys should focus on trying to keep the first turbo project togeather and making it run before building another one......

    Travis

  7. #5
    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    well i'd be alot happier just making 14-15lbs of boost on alky and letting the motor survive longer.
    But 14-15# boost on methanol is not going to make the hp that 20# boost on gas or E85 is.

    The methanol advantage is that it will TAKE so much more boost and timing without detonation.

    Even up boost and timing, methanol MAY make 5% more HP over gas at best. Less yet over E85.

    This ought to get the masses riled up.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

    http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MAH05771.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
    No one cares about your buddies old antiquated garden hose technology.
    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

  8. #6
    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
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    You can certainly buy it.
    We have three drums of race E85 at the dyno shop I'm helping out at.
    It's 112 octane Rockett racing fuel.
    http://www.rockettbrand.com/

    To me shipping in fuel in drums doesn't make a lot of sense for anything than a dedicated race vehicle.

    I don't know about mixing custom fuels.
    I've got more confidence in an intercooler setup.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

    http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MAH05771.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
    No one cares about your buddies old antiquated garden hose technology.
    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

  9. #7
    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
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    Thats awesome.

    Been there done that doin that

    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    here's a tear down in progress pic, ethan tore it all down for me, even found 3 pushrods that had flat worn in the rocker sockets can you guys imagine the shit this kid will be able to build by 16yrs old, he's 10 now this 5.3 will be assembled by him, double checked by dad of course he can lash solid roller cams, recite chevy firing order, change and gap plugs for me and i've about got him pulling motors for me without having to help him much.


  10. #8
    Already miss the 310/562 2manymustangs's Avatar
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    I thought heat was your friend with turbos?
    Pat Eason, the voice of reason...

  11. #9
    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
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    The manifolds look like a good idea and should be real durable.
    What are you going to do, turn them upside down ?
    You get an A for ingenuity
    Last edited by Unchained; 10-23-2009 at 10:59 AM.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

    http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MAH05771.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
    No one cares about your buddies old antiquated garden hose technology.
    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

  12. #10
    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
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    I don't know anything about the blow through carbs but it looks like that one has venturi's where the one that you put on Billys boat was straight bores with a bent tube dangling out in the middle of each hole. What's the diff there ?
    Last edited by Unchained; 10-26-2009 at 02:42 PM.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

    http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MAH05771.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
    No one cares about your buddies old antiquated garden hose technology.
    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

  13. #11
    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    just 2 different ways of doin the same thing mark. my carb has huge boosters whay up high with alot of emulsion holes in them to really break up fuel well at any lower hp levels than billy's c&s carb, his carb will support 2500hp as it sets now without any changes other than mainjets. his carb works as good as any factory fuel injection system i've ever worked on in my career turnwrenches believe it or not. has a spot on idle air fuel ratio, we can just dial in/out the mixture screws and watch the meter immediately react to the change, and from idle to wot, it'll never get about 11.7 a/f at 24lbs of boost, at 15lbs it was holding alil fatter wot at 11.5 ,but shit, that's great
    factory fuel injection objectives are completely different then aftermarket. I dare you to try and run any N/A or boosted engine as lean as our factory cars are, and do it with a carb. even if you just took a factory car (any car) and put a carb on it and tried to tune it to produce the same power with the same emissions. 1. i gaurantee you won't get it as clean 2. you will probably blow it up trying.

    its easy to stuff fuel down an engine and make it run good.

    for a carb it is "great"...not efi, that "holding alil fatter wot" would just be tuned out of it

    i'm just saying thats all....i still totally dig your LS turbo project!!


    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    i've got some gm sensors that'll work 12volt or 5volt and i have the voltage to temp conversion data for them to plug into something. i thought my msd ignition had a seperate single channel that wasn't used, but it doesn't, it's for the map sensor.
    why don't you just get a digital volt gauge and memorize (or have it written on a paper) the voltage to temp correlation table for whatever sensor you have? you would just be the translator instead of trying to get an ecu or something that would translate the voltage into temp. (this is just the easier/simple way of doing it...i know you carb guys like simple!)

    AP
    Last edited by ap67et10; 10-26-2009 at 06:02 PM.

  14. #12
    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Don't know much about these, but looks like they have what you want
    http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html

    AP

  15. #13
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    factory fuel injection objectives are completely different then aftermarket. I dare you to try and run any N/A or boosted engine as lean as our factory cars are, and do it with a carb. even if you just took a factory car (any car) and put a carb on it and tried to tune it to produce the same power with the same emissions. 1. i gaurantee you won't get it as clean 2. you will probably blow it up trying.

    its easy to stuff fuel down an engine and make it run good.

    for a carb it is "great"...not efi, that "holding alil fatter wot" would just be tuned out of it

    i'm just saying thats all....
    check out the link--http://www.pro-system.com/scoop92102.html
    Carbs have come a long way in the last couple years.

    Tom, I predict your engine on the dyno will go something like this, 600-625-650-675-blam knocka knocka --oh sh-t rods in tha floora.

  16. #14
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    you just worry about how much boost i'll be runnning when we line up ya never know, may have to get me some protoplines too long way till januaryonly thing stopping me from shooting for more than 20psi is the deck of these stock heads, they won't take anymore than 20psi, and i've got the best ls1 heads for boosting with, but it is what it is it'll take some aftermarkets before i can try for more than 20lbs. still gotta boat for sale, so some $$$$ might free up here and there

    you need to read the ls1 forums on yb and see what they're pushing with stocker rods and good rod bolts i was even surprised, had already planned on some cheap scat ibeams or something, but there's no need in this 5.3 unless i rev it over 7k, no need to balance it even until i get over 6800 that's just called a well built from the factory motor to begin with new techonology old mannnnnnnnnnnn arp2000 rod bolts even weigh the same as factory! the rods a broken steel rods, just as strong as some scat ibeams rated for 750hp, but with the factory rods, since the caps are broken, you'll never see cap shift or walk
    Yea GM definately created a beast when they brought out the LS1 in '97. I'm going to pick up another Camaro or Trans Am next year...probably throw a healthy iron 408 in there. I wanna go forced induction, one way or another. I like reading how much stupid power they're making with these LSx motors.


    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

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