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BBC questions???

  1. #1
    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    Default BBC questions???

    So I have a stock 454 with logs turning a berk A. I had fun with it this summer going early 60's with a full load. I redid the interior, stereo, cables, all the shit I knew how to but now its time for motor.

    I have an airgap manifold and a new set of bassett twisties that I want to put on. Problem is that I am a 21st century digital boy and I dont know shit about motors...I want to do this myself because I want to learn. Can anyone recommend any websites I can go to to. Like BBCfordummies.com or something????

    Thanks fellas

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  3. #2
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Default

    Trust this...you'll learn a LOT right here
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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    You already found it.

    Headers, take your old exhaust off. Get new gaskets & new header bolts(Rex Marine carries everything you need) Put them on, do not over torque. You will get the feel for it. If they leak at startup, shut down & tighten them. Work slow, get all the bolts started and make sure you will be able to tighten all of them(you will see what I mean).

    Intake manifold-Go to edelbrocks website, they have instructions there. Follow their instructions including torque sequence. Use a torque wrench. If you dont have one, borrow one or buy one. I like to use RTV at the manifold ends(will discuss in the instructions) and 3M weatherstrip adhesive around the water ports on both sides of the gasket(head side & manifold side). Work clean. Dont let any debris fall inside the motor. Prep is the key. Scrape off all old gasket material and wipe down with some acetone. Make sure it is clean clean clean.

    Ask questions about specifics.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Brendella pretty much has it covered.

    Failure to follow torque SEQUENCE can warp things, and you get leaks, water and air leaks, and many headaches.

    I use RTV at the water passage locations, works fine.

    RE-TORQUE the next day, at least once, and after the first time it is run,a nd check at least once after that. Gaskets crush in for a little while. Pretty soon they set and stay tight.
    Usually takes 3 to 4 torqueings in my experience.

    I RTV my header flanges instead of gaskets, about a 3/16" bead and let set up for a day (or 2), High-temp RTV, not regular RTV. Let harden first and it does not glue the headers on, much less hassle to remove later
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Also you will need to add some type of a dump line, if I remember the log days correctly your current water dumps right behind the snails. And a bassett t valve(or some other) to control the water to the headers. Unless you're planing on running them dry.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    ... Some Kind Of Monster's Avatar
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    When you go to scrape the old intake gasket residue off, put an old (clean)shirt or towell in the lifter valley to keep any crud from falling into the engine. When you're done, just carefully remove the towell and all the crud from the engine and follow up with a vacuum to get the ramainder.

    When you install the new gasket, RTV around the water ports. I just use RTV to seal the manifold ends too, but to each their own. Either way will work. I find that if you use the supplied gaskets, they like to pop out upon installation.

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Edelbrock advises RTV on their manifolds, at least they did on my Performer RPM Air Gap 2.0 for the ends, not to use the rubber end gaskets.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
    H.L. Mencken

    OBAMA: Some people deserve this.
    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

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    BTC cardcarrying member sunkisst's Avatar
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    Default Very Important...

    Once you have changed out the exhaust and the induction,It is VERY important to check you carburetor jetting.What carburetor are you using? Be it rich, or lean ,you have to get it dialed in. No one has brought this up yet. Lets get the major upgrades in place then we will "LEARN YOUR ASS" on the particulars. After we get that straightened out, We will have fun runnin the snot out of your boat!!! Welcome Home!!!
    Last edited by sunkisst; 10-01-2009 at 04:59 PM.

  11. #9
    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    Whats the best way to apply the RTV? That stuff is super thick...so I apply then put on the manifold right away...wait? Carb jetting is going to be a whole other issue. Im running a 715 holley...that will be fun.

  12. #10
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Whats the best way to apply the RTV? That stuff is super thick...so I apply then put on the manifold right away...wait? Carb jetting is going to be a whole other issue. Im running a 715 holley...that will be fun.
    Dry fit the manifold first with the gaskets, and then look at the front and the back to get an idea of how it's fitting. A 1/4" bead should be close, I prefer a product called "the right stuff" over rtv.fwiw
    Edit: right away...don't wait.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

  13. #11
    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    I mean do I let if dry a little first to keep it from oozing?

  14. #12
    BTC cardcarrying member sunkisst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    Dry fit the manifold first with the gaskets, and then look at the front and the back to get an idea of how it's fitting. A 1/4" bead should be close, I prefer a product called "the right stuff" over rtv.fwiw
    Edit: right away...don't wait.
    The Right Stuff is a Permatex product.That is what you want to use.I put a bead on the block between the intake gaskets before you lay down the gaskets and a bead on the bottom if the intake manifold.Kinda leave a little spot under the intake gasket and a little spot on top of the gasket so they will run together when you lay the intake down on the engine.

  15. #13
    BTC cardcarrying member sunkisst's Avatar
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    Default Dry Time

    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    I mean do I let if dry a little first to keep it from oozing?
    The Right Stuff package states "Install immediately"

  16. #14
    Senior Member earlbrown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunkisst View Post
    The Right Stuff package states "Install immediately"
    And it most defiantly does NOT ooze! That stuff is thick and stays put.

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