Cast or Forged Crank
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Cast or Forged Crank

  1. #1
    MLC - Mid Life Crisis probablecause's Avatar
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    Default Cast or Forged Crank

    Scat/Eagle Forged or Cast crank for a 10:1 N/A 505 BBC tall deck?
    Will be running no more than 5500-6000. Large oval port heads also. Basically a family 505 torque monster.
    Last edited by probablecause; 10-01-2009 at 12:59 AM.

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    The cast will survive just fine as long as you don't push the revs eny higher. It's the rev harmonics that snaps them far more than the pressure against them.

    My cast GM is surviving just fine under 6-grand in my 454.
    Last edited by SmokinLowriderSS; 10-01-2009 at 03:26 AM.
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  4. #3
    steelcomp was here
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    For as little as you can pay for a decent forged crank these days, I'd Buy a Scat and never waste a second of worrrying weather or not you did the right thing.
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  6. #4
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    scat 9000 series cast should handle it fine

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    Whatever you decide to go with will work fine, but get a good harmonic balancer. I've seen many steel and cast cranks break, and most were balancer issues(like using a used stock balancer on a new stroker to save a few bucks). My old shop foreman built a cheap 350 to put in his old commuter beater truck, he got a free Scat cast crank from a circle track guy that it turns out was run without the balancer ring. Some of the locals remove the ring to reduce rotating weight for quicker throttle response in the cheaper classes. Long story short, the crank broke behind the front crank pin after less than 3000 miles in the truck. Dave also installed a used balancer too. In the old days before aftermarket, lightweight cranks were easily obtainable, running only the balancer hub or using the Moroso ALUMINUM 1 piece "balancer" was a fairly common drag race deal too. An aquaintance of mine (not an engine customer) ran the Moroso unit for years until the NHRA outlawed them. He freshened his Super Comp (8.90 index) dragster engine every year (427 Chevy) and had us only wet-mag the crank. Every factory steel 427 crank he ran had fillet cracks in the front rod throws and some in the front 2 mains. He also used to seriously stretch the timing chains too. For what your entire engine package will cost, the extra cash for the forged crank and REAL FLUIDAMPER is a minor consideration. TIMINATOR
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  8. #6
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    Thee is 2 ways to look at this. Steelcomp is right, the price diff really isn't that much, but it is enough to buy the rods. If you know for sure that you have no plans to up grade, or NOS this thing later, then I would go with the Scat 9000 cast crank and Scat Pro Comp series "I" beam rods, and KB forged pistons. If you have any intentions at all of ramping up, then its a forged crank with the H beams rods and SRP or Mahle pistons. Price diff between a cast 9000 with I beams and a forged with H beams is about $600.00



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    Last edited by gn7; 10-01-2009 at 07:53 AM.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TIMINATOR View Post
    Whatever you decide to go with will work fine, but get a good harmonic balancer. I've seen many steel and cast cranks break, and most were balancer issues(like using a used stock balancer on a new stroker to save a few bucks). My old shop foreman built a cheap 350 to put in his old commuter beater truck, he got a free Scat cast crank from a circle track guy that it turns out was run without the balancer ring. Some of the locals remove the ring to reduce rotating weight for quicker throttle response in the cheaper classes. Long story short, the crank broke behind the front crank pin after less than 3000 miles in the truck. Dave also installed a used balancer too. In the old days before aftermarket, lightweight cranks were easily obtainable, running only the balancer hub or using the Moroso ALUMINUM 1 piece "balancer" was a fairly common drag race deal too. An aquaintance of mine (not an engine customer) ran the Moroso unit for years until the NHRA outlawed them. He freshened his Super Comp (8.90 index) dragster engine every year (427 Chevy) and had us only wet-mag the crank. Every factory steel 427 crank he ran had fillet cracks in the front rod throws and some in the front 2 mains. He also used to seriously stretch the timing chains too. For what your entire engine package will cost, the extra cash for the forged crank and REAL FLUIDAMPER is a minor consideration. TIMINATOR
    Really good info, and you where making a lot of sense until you got right here



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Really good info, and you where making a lot of sense until you got right here
    Agreed, I've heard a lot of bad info on Fluidampers. Tim, Can you explain your position on this please?

  11. #9
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    x3 Fluidampers BAD!!!!!!!!!!!
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  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Some Kind Of Monster View Post
    Agreed, I've heard a lot of bad info on Fluidampers. Tim, Can you explain your position on this please?
    I'm not Tim but maybe I can explain. Fluid filled dampeners are commonly used on diesel engines. They need to be changed or at least tested app. every 250K miles. They work fine for that application but diesels run in a very narrow RPM range, about 4-500 RPM and the fluid dampeners are tuned, in part, for that RPM range only. To use a fluid filled dampener on a gasoline engine the dampener cannot cover the entire RPM operating range effectivly. A elastometer[sp] [rubber type] can better dampen harmonics over a wider RPM range than the fluid type. Also this needs to be said that some diesel mfgs. are going back to the rubber type for several reasons, cost, less maintainence and reduction of inventory, meaning they do not have to manufacture different sizes for different horsepower/torque ratings. That is another part of the "tuning" aspect of a vibration dampener.
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    gn7
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    And if it has 2 elastomer rings (like ATI), then it can be tuned for an even wider range. I am not a Fluidamper fan at all, but inall fairness, alot of the problems that have been blamed on Fluidampers was really due to the dambass balancing shops that insist on spinning the damper with the crank. Major no-no with Fluidamper, ATI's, Rattler, or any other "moving part" type damper.



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  14. #12
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Really good info, and you where making a lot of sense until you got right here
    +1.
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    I'm running a Fluidamp and I havent had any problems. It's the shearing of the fluid that absorbs harmonics and is supposed to work at all RPMs...

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by probablecause View Post
    Scat/Eagle Forged or Cast crank for a 10:1 N/A 505 BBC tall deck?
    Will be running no more than 5500-6000. Large oval port heads also. Basically a family 505 torque monster.

    both offer cast cranks only to 4.250 stroke if more stroke is needed you will have to move up to the forged series.

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