Water Crossover Vs. Water Pump
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Water Crossover Vs. Water Pump

  1. #1
    Senior Member justfloatn's Avatar
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    Default Water Crossover Vs. Water Pump

    I'm gathering parts for an engine rebuild next winter. It's the 454 IO below. I'm looking at the different water crossovers.

    Some have a by-pass and some don't. What are the pros and cons?
    My opinion is to go with the bypass to keep the engine warmer and not dead-head the impeller when the T-stat closes.

    Also is the stock water impeller sufficient without the water pump?
    I think that the stock water impeller will be fine.

    Hell my hydro had a impeller half the size and the t-stat was a ball valve on the back of the intake . But I wasn't running across Folsom pulling a tube either.

    I just need some opinions and advise on it.
    Thanks.

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  3. #2
    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    Call me and I will explain the difference and all the things you need to do for that type of system
    626-443-3721
    Brian
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  4. #3

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    Why not post it here, I would like to hear the answer as well. Looking at different cooling options for my boat. Thanks.
    Greg

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    Senior Member OkieDave's Avatar
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    yeah, post it here. I am interested in opinions on this as well. thanks.

  7. #5
    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    Sorry guys, we have been slammed getting boats ready for Desert Storm and the Eliminator regatta.
    I'll post it up later today or tomorrow.
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    Cool, thanks BD! Being busy is a good thing I'm sure.

  9. #7
    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    OK It's lunch and I'll take a min for a little fyi
    I'll assume you are running a Bravo dirve and a Merc sea water pump since you didn't say.
    You have to run a crossover with a bypass that goes to the top of the new therm housing. This is the only way the exhaust will get water when the thermostat is closed. Also, drill 2 or 3 .090 holes in the thermostat flange so it does not "deadhead" the water. This will help with steam pockets before the thermostat opens.
    Pro's...... are that you no longer have to turn the re-circulating pump, (less hp draw) no more replacing the pump, the ss crossover and therm housing looks better, one less belt.
    Con's..... the Merc thermostat housing & re-circulating pump together will maintain a much more constitant water temp. Also if you have a serpentine belt it will be very expensive converting over to v-groove pulleys.
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  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDMarine View Post
    OK It's lunch and I'll take a min for a little fyi
    I'll assume you are running a Bravo dirve and a Merc sea water pump since you didn't say.
    You have to run a crossover with a bypass that goes to the top of the new therm housing. This is the only way the exhaust will get water when the thermostat is closed. Also, drill 2 or 3 .090 holes in the thermostat flange so it does not "deadhead" the water. This will help with steam pockets before the thermostat opens.
    Pro's...... are that you no longer have to turn the re-circulating pump, (less hp draw) no more replacing the pump, the ss crossover and therm housing looks better, one less belt.
    Con's..... the Merc thermostat housing & re-circulating pump together will maintain a much more constitant water temp. Also if you have a serpentine belt it will be very expensive converting over to v-groove pulleys.

    I make a crossover with a pulley (idler) on it for the serpentine belt system.

  11. #9

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    Default Reviving an oldie

    so consider you don't have a Bravo, but an older pre-alpha (yeah yeah looking to upgrade next winter), is there a way to eliminate the stock water pump. Doing an overhaul on the motor, plus new pulleys and other goodies. I have a smallblock with stock belt driven water pump. Can the drive pump work. Wouldn't mind cleaning up the front of the engine and picking up some extra ponies.

    I have stainless marine exhaust manifolds that receive the water coming off the t-stat housing.

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